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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am considering selling my existing 454 to help fund a new build. Specs

454 BBC, bored .030
Unknown brand of pistons
Stock rods and crank
Comp 280H HFT camshaft
Stock 820 cylinder heads. 2.06/1.72 valves. Seats have been cut
Newish valve springs (924-16) are set up to be around 130# seat, 310# open.
Comp Pro Magnum Rockers
Tool Steel Retainers
Weiand Action Plus dual plane intake. Mild plenum work with divider cut down.
M/T black ribbed valve covers
Factory 5 qt oil pan
No carb
No dizzy

Latest dyno was 369.7 rwhp, 431.3 rwtq.

I will be keeping my Moroso oil pan, fuel injection, and distributor.

If the retainers are of no value to the engine sale, I may swap them with the steel ones.
 

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what your going to hear, is the original motor has a vin stamp that matches your car, so keep the motor to verify that you have a numbers matching car and the extra value it brings when it comes time to sell. jim
 
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For what you could get for it the wise choice would be to keep it with the car for future sales. Many Chevelle owners would love to have a matching numbers block. It still could be made to appear totally stock.
 

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Everyone tells me to keep the original parts for the car. I'm starting wonder why. I have no plans to ever sell the car, so the value to an "all original" seeker is kind of a moot point. I would rather sell it all and buy the things to make the car as I want.
 

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there's hundred of people that built a car of thier dreams and thought they would never sell it. life goes on and things change. having a numbers matching 454 will make it alot easier to sell when the day comes. your not going to be one of those guys with a classic buried into the floor in mud and tell everyone that comes knocking your going to fix it up again someday 😀.
guy down the street had a numbers matching ls5 70 chevelle since the 80s, turned it into his track car but never cut it up. then the fateful night the crank broke and took out the front of the block. he was kind of regretting not building his 496 with a truck 454 and putting the matching motor on the stand. The cars been raced since the 80s and was going to always be his bracket car. today it's on blocks with a new paint job and a ton of brand new restoration parts. So after 40 years things can and do change. jim
 
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Everyone tells me to keep the original parts for the car. I'm starting wonder why. I have no plans to ever sell the car, so the value to an "all original" seeker is kind of a moot point. I would rather sell it all and buy the things to make the car as I want.
Life/plans change. If the code has been decked from the block then sell it. If not, I would source another 454 block and have my way with that...stash this one under the bench. But it's yours to do what you want...
 

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I have a 1978 C20 Silverado Camper Special 454 (Reg Cab) and a 1979 C3500 Sierra Classic 454 (Reg cam Dooley). Those old 454's were not that powerful with their original 7.3:1 compression and small cams. My son makes his living valuing classic vehicles and he highly suggested on both vehicles to retain the original engines as that increases the value of the vehicle. I took a 1980's Mark IV block I had laying around and rebuilt with small dome forged pistons and factory forged crank to put in the 1979 (still deciding on cam) and a Gen VI factory roller block with the fuel pump pad for the 1978 (my wife has claimed this as her vehicle - I get the Laguna) - she wants a basic Vortec BBC so I am retaining the L29 heads and a mild cam. In both cases, there is a corner in my shop where I will put them on a dolly and roll them into the corner. I have a party interested in the 1979, but will not be selling the 1978 - keeping the original engine anyway. In fact, it is time to pull the original from the 1978 and rebuild it so it will go in the corner soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What is your new build? You can do a lot with your existing set up or even go 489/496 cubic inches. Aftermarket heads, hydraulic roller cam and some other things 600+ hp or about 500 hp to the tire.
It all depends on the block really. If I can source a good MKIV block, then a .060 over 454
Molnar 6.385 rods
Molnar 4.00 inch crank
Racetec 27.5 cc pistons
Edelbrock RPM Air gap
Straub or Clay Smith Hydraulic Roller cam
Johnson Hyd Roller lifts
Probably Brodix RR270 heads, but maybe AFR 265s if I can be sure they won't bugger up the exhaust too bad.

I have zero interest in doing a stroker.

If I can't find a block, then I would use the 2 bolt main block that I currently have, or I'd consider a Dart Big M and then a 509 would be looked at and probably derail the whole project haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Since you are never selling it, who are you willing it to? They might appreciate a numbers matching car, value wise to go along with your estate.
whoever gets it will get it as I left it and they shouldn't complain.

The car is far from all original now anyways. The car had the tunnel cut to put a Muncie in it before i go it, and I since cut the tunnel to put a T56 in it. My car would be a bad choice for someone to turn it back to all original IMO.
 

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whoever gets it will get it as I left it and they shouldn't complain.

The car is far from all original now anyways. The car had the tunnel cut to put a Muncie in it before i go it, and I since cut the tunnel to put a T56 in it. My car would be a bad choice for someone to turn it back to all original IMO.
I wasn't suggesting that anyone would/should complain about it, just that it would be worth more with its original parts (no matter how much of it is left) than without. Just things I think about when thinking what and how to leave anything for my family when I kick it.
 

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Everyone tells me to keep the original parts for the car. I'm starting wonder why. I have no plans to ever sell the car, so the value to an "all original" seeker is kind of a moot point. I would rather sell it all and buy the things to make the car as I want.
I agree with you 100% My Heavy Chevy has not been original since it was about 6 months old. I also am not a "numbers" guy. Make the car the way you want it. Same thing with guys that do things with their houses and garages for resale value. To heck with that I want it the way I want it :) If I end up selling then I will get what I can get.

All of that being said . . . . . I think I would sell the engine complete with the Fuel Injection, pan etc. The minute you start taking things off I think the value drops a lot. Tell the buyer they can hear it run and drive if they want. Make the deal then pull it out and hand it to them. I bet most guys buying engines now days want it that way. Most do not have the knowledge to put a fuel system on it, tune it etc. They want to bolt it in a car and derive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I agree with you 100% My Heavy Chevy has not been original since it was about 6 months old. I also am not a "numbers" guy. Make the car the way you want it. Same thing with guys that do things with their houses and garages for resale value. To heck with that I want it the way I want it :) If I end up selling then I will get what I can get.

All of that being said . . . . . I think I would sell the engine complete with the Fuel Injection, pan etc. The minute you start taking things off I think the value drops a lot. Tell the buyer they can hear it run and drive if they want. Make the deal then pull it out and hand it to them. I bet most guys buying engines now days want it that way. Most do not have the knowledge to put a fuel system on it, tune it etc. They want to bolt it in a car and derive.
I've thought about that, but I don't want to go through the whole process of doing a brand new EFI system again, even if it reduces the value of a complete engine, it saves me a lot of hassle later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I found this 454 on Ebay

The engine is nothing special and has a lot more unknowns than mine.
$5500 USD or $6800 CAD.

Seems expensive to me, but is that about right for what it is?
 

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I found this 454 on Ebay

The engine is nothing special and has a lot more unknowns than mine.
$5500 USD or $6800 CAD.

Seems expensive to me, but is that about right for what it is?
I think it is a bit much if you cant hear it start and run. With it out of the car its a big gamble. Thats where you have the advantage. You can start yours and let them hear it run and even take them for a drive. That makes a HUGE difference. Its almost impossible to build a basic engine like yours for much less than $6500

When customers ask me about buying a used engine I tell them that if they cant hear it run they are basically buying a core.
 
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