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Bill, does that apply to BBC's as well?
Yes, if it came with a canister filter originally, there is no machined surface for the filter to seal to. Same kit fits big block and small block. Most adapters require you to use the old relief valve assembly under the new adapter, but not all of them. Also, some kits take Chevrolet style filters, some kits use Ford style filters.
 

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Thanks, Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Chris, sorry about the bad info. An example of a carry over of old misinformation. ZK
Not a problem.I haven't even dug into it yet.I couldn't understand why the bolts wouldn't work,but it was the filter gasket boss that was the problem.Now I know.I might just keep the canister as long as it doesn't leak and I can find refills.
Thanks guys.
 

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I like my canister, just changed the oil and filter this weekend. Yeah it's harder to do than a spin on but you're getting about twice the filter area and I like to keep my stuff original if I can.

The first time I changed the filter I was pretty stumped on how the thing worked. Didn't get the canister squarely in the flange and after starting the engine had a Exxon Valdez size oil leak on the floor of my garage. Live and learn... you have to rotate the canister back and forth slightly when you get close to snugging it up (after seating the gasket). I tried to set the gasket on the top of the canister rim - don't take that shortcut kids. :noway:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I like my canister, just changed the oil and filter this weekend. Yeah it's harder to do than a spin on but you're getting about twice the filter area and I like to keep my stuff original if I can.

The first time I changed the filter I was pretty stumped on how the thing worked. Didn't get the canister squarely in the flange and after starting the engine had a Exxon Valdez size oil leak on the floor of my garage. Live and learn... you have to rotate the canister back and forth slightly when you get close to snugging it up (after seating the gasket). I tried to set the gasket on the top of the canister rim - don't take that shortcut kids. :noway:
Ah,something to look forward to on my first time then,lol.
 

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Ah,something to look forward to on my first time then,lol.
:D Did I mention how heavy those canisters are? Yeah they are HEAVY and there's a spring at the bottom which holds the filter element up against the flange making things even more fun! Personally I need to be directly under the filter to get enough muscle to hold the thing in place while tightening the bolt. Piece of cake after you do it a couple times. ;)

One more tip while I'm thinking about it. I used a large safety pin to remove the old gasket. They get stuck in the groove pretty good and need to be coaxed out.
 

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Messy and ugly. Kinda nice not having to cut the housing apart to view the dreck inside.

Used to be those filter elements were a buck-a-piece for quality filters. I don't imagine they're any bargain now.
 

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I have a Trans-Dapt set up for my future 396. Yes, with that you have to utilize the existing piece, with the new "screw on" attatchment on TOP (or below) that. There is a specific Felt washer, as well as longer bolts to put the whole affair together.
I had a Cannister filter setup, but that got lost in one of the moves.
 

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Messy and ugly. Kinda nice not having to cut the housing apart to view the dreck inside.

Used to be those filter elements were a buck-a-piece for quality filters. I don't imagine they're any bargain now.
I use my canister filter.. A WIX 51143 filter is 4 dollars and some change at O'reillys.

PUROLATOR L30141
MOTORCRAFT FL22
LEE L141HD
FRAM CH200PL
GM 5574540
Take your pick


Rocky
 
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