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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put my car up on the rack today to take a pic for a guy and found a beat up bushing on the floor. It looked like a sway bar end link or upper shock bushing but the best I could see from below they were all in place.
When I put it back on the ground and checked the top shock bushings one was gone and the other was beat to death.
These are the bushings above the frame so should be unloaded. They’d be loaded when the car is hanging on the lift I suppose.
The shocks are Fox provided by Hotchkis as part of a complete suspension package so I’m assuming they are the right length.
Any ideas what would cause this?
(Plus I seriously need to dust my suspension. Jeez that’s emabarrassing)

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Ryan
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Over tightening would be my guess.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Interesting. OK, I’ll install new ones and only tighten them until they are snug. They came with nuts and jam nuts so I don‘t think I would have cranked too hard on them, but I honestly don’t remember.
Thanks
 
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THose are the washers that came with those shocks ? they look like they're just flat washers ? I'm used to seeing rounded type shock hardware that cups the outsides of the rubber bushing.

Like in this picture in the link.
 

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It could also be they were not tight enough and beat themselves to death. I agree that flat washer is not helping.
 

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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu
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Yes, normally the shocks have a cupped washer holding the rubber bushings in place, thats the first time I ever saw a flat washer there. They should also only be tightened so the bulge of the bushing is the same size as the cupped washer diameter. Is it my eyes or does your tubular arm look like it's way off center with the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They were flat washers. That never occurred to me. I just bought a new set of bushings and the kit has cupped washers. Now I’m wondering what’s under the bottom bushings on the same shaft. $hit.
The new bushing are from Energy Suspension and are poly. I’m not sure they will bulge out to the diameter of the washer. They’re pretty firm.
I was going to just replace the damaged upper bushings but now I’ll drop the shocks out and replace uppers and lowers.
i see what you mean about the shafts looking off but it’s just the photo. In real life they’re fine.

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I would use nylon locknuts so they won't back off when you don't tighten it too tight.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would use nylon locknuts so they won't back off when you don't tighten it too tight.

View attachment 717064
Good idea. I don’t have any fine thread nylocks but I’ll pick some up. That’s probably why there is an allenhead hole in the top of the shock because without it you couldn’t tighten it with a nylock.
 

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There should be bushings centering the shaft on the control arm too. It looks like they are wasted. Are you sure they are OK? Just saying.
Shafts are offset, I have Hotchkis control arms too. I think if they were centered the arms would hit the frame.

My Hotchkis shocks came with a cupped washer for the shock bushing.
 

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Not a great pic of the washer but the best I have. You can sort of make out the cupped edge on the washer. And if you squint you can tell the control arm shaft is offset, lol.

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Some times the cupped washers have a slight depression in them in the shape of the nut. I don't know if that's there to hold the nut from backing off. Also the hex in the end of the shaft comes in handi when your trying to get the nut off and the shaft turns with the nut because of corrosion. When that happens and the hex dosen't work either you normally have to use a nut cracker on the nut.
 
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Is it my eyes or does your tubular arm look like it's way off center with the shaft.
I have to agree that UCA's shaft does have the look of it being off centered.You should check to make sure those bushings in the UCA have the inner sleeve. Without an inner sleeve it could allow the bushing to deform allowing more grease to escape than is normal.
 
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