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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SO, i am getting ready to re-start my project. I have the dismantle portion completed and started doing a little body work. Now I'm ready to actually follow through. When you are doing a pro-touring / resto mod style build, what do you do first? of course my mind says buy a big fancy motor and a pile of suspension parts, but i know that won't help. (it will just sit in a corner till its really time)

My thought would be
1) chassis (boxing / modifying / tubing and what not)
2) body (fitting body to frame, tubbing fenders, rough body work, shaving what i feel needs to be shaven)
3) suspension
4) power plant
5) final paint
6) wiring and interior
7) Driving?

what would you change or move around. I am open to interpretation and opinions. what did you do and what would you have done different?

(Car will be a 71 Chevelle with preferred a forced induction BBC with fuel injection, 4l80 or something with gear vendors, and going back and forth between 9" and S60 rear end)
 

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Ryan
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I’ve never had my car off of the frame but it’s mostly done at this point, but looking back I wish I had the means to do a frame off resto. I think that your order of restoration is pretty spot on. Someone else should chime in who’s actually done a frame off.

My biggest recomendation would be to do your research on all of your suspension/ pro touring components so you don’t go overboard, only having to redo stuff after the car is finished because you don’t like it’s manners. (NVH)

Example: There’s lots of people over at pro-touring.com that run solid body mounts “because race car” when in fact they drive them on the streets 99 percent of the time.

Good luck with your build.
 

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Last full resto I helped with was:

1. Chassis (Prep) welding, boxing, brackets
2. Suspension (complete front / rear, tank (Temporary for fitting)
3. Wiring and tubing (prep. Lengths and brackets and holes)
4. Powerplant and Trans (temporary, mount check clearances / prep)
5. All body prep was done off the Car. (holes and or seal-up holes. fitting interior / mods)
6. Main body fitting (checking mounting points ...)
7. Disassemble all.
8. Paint Chassis
9. Reinstall all Suspension (permanent install)
10. Wiring, tubing , and tank. (permanent install)
11. Powerplant and Trans permanent install.
12. Main body (Fitting only for changes and exhaust measurements.
13. Exhaust.
14. Paint
15. Interior.

Of course some of the stuff can be done with the body either on or off. But you will be relying on how good your measurements were. Nothing worse than finding something doesn't fit right or you need a bracket added, moved up or down after everything is painted. And some of it easier if you have the area to maneuver in.

Mike
 
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Also a recommendation, start a build thread or relabel this one and document your full build and questions. This will help others and followers with your questions. Tons of great advice from the most knowledgeable people on Chevelle's.

What would I do differently? As Ryan stated, research here or others on what you are looking to do. Real question everyone will need is how do you want the stance and what do you want the car to do? Street 90% Track 10% (Road course or Drag)? Pending those, there are some on here with extensive knowledge on proper suspension setup.

Get the proper front end A-arms to correct the old/dated alignment issues. Decide now on how wide you want your tire and wheel offsets. The above route will give you proper time to measure how wide of a rear you need and any frame / rear wheel well mods will be needed. Stock, body straight and exact measurements and you can fit 305's in the rear (pending actual manuf. tire measurements. Not all are the same). 315s and your gonna need things moved around a little. Think about what exhaust you want and who to make them and size primary's. Some larger are in the frame and some outer. Exhaust size and routing as this will play on body fitment (3" or 3.5") Test your harnesses and pressure test fuel lines once in place permanently prior to body. Especially if they are 'in-frame" or have lots of fittings. Lots of different ways to feed your EFI.

Be honest with your needs if on a budget. Do you need rear disk for example. Do you need a fully adjustable rear suspension etc... . Do you need a BBC with forced Ind? How much HP/TQ. if drag then good. If street, good luck on anything over 600hp sticking to the street.

9" vs S60? Both are outstanding rears. One of the selling points on the 9" for me was the lower pinion. My car is lowered in rear significantly and I needed all the inches I could get for drive shaft alignment. Plus last year when I priced them, the 9" was cheaper by about $1000. Though the QP 9" is cheaper for one reason because you assemble it. Not a big deal but will take about 2.5hrs. They will assemble it for around $600 more. If you are going for some drag time, you may want to get the top ears of the rear mounted a little higher.

4L80e or GV? There are several recent threads on here about this. I'm partial to a TH400/350 with GV. But my car and others I help are simpler. If you are going for complete computer control with your EFI, then 4L80e. They do make adapters now for the newer 6 and 10 spd. autos.

Like I said, start a build thread with pictures and you'll get lots of help.

Hopes this helps Sir and good luck with the build. Looking forward to it.

Mike
 
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Not going to comment additionally on the process. Just a caution about buying parts in advance. Some companies have 30 or 90 day return policy. So when your parts sit there for six months before you get around to using them only to find they don’t fit,etc. you will find them to be non returnable.
 
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1967 Chevy Chevelle
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Build it on paper first, confirm all your components,, check all your vendors and if any, shop lead times, that will tell you where you need to leap frog around if you have to wait for something else or someone.. Allow for bad material, returns and the time needed for that..etc.
 

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This may sound odd, but I bought my son a project book from Stacey David's GEARZ to organize his rock climber project. As said, by SFD and other, organize it on paper somewhat.

PS son is at the point if welding new brackets onto frame, and then frame will be final prepped. Maybe by galvenizing if not simple powder coat.
 
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