[HardHitter]

So I'm in the middle of looking for a good amount of cars ranging from second generation Camaros, 1968-1971 Chevelle and then a Nova SS.

I've been looking for about 2 months now but patiently been waiting for that right one.

I'm looking really for a cruiser car but at the same time, I want my money to be well spent. I want as much HP/torque for the money so I pose this question:

A lot of the cars I always see have the 350 in it. I've seen a lot of 392, 454 and just recently a 502 all within my price range. Is it worth spending the money for the larger motors to basically say "I have a good starting point"

Last thing I want to do is get a car with a 350, the HP isn't enough and I'm there stuck saying "I should of went with a XXX"

 

[jackie schmidt]

If in the end, you do want good usable HP and torque for the street, then logic dictates big cubic inches. Cubic inches make torque, and in a true street car, torque is what you are looking for.

If it is in the budget, get a car that is already set up for a big block. But keep in mind, in today's world, the term big block has taken own a new meaning. A 396 is, in physical dimensions and weight, a " big block". But in truth, it is that in name only. One of the more common small block builds now is a 383 CID, that's not far behind a 396 with a tremendous saving in weight..

So, if you find a car with a big block, and "cruising with potential" is you goal, find a 454 or larger. The simple truth is, you can build a 454 that will make 500 good usable street HP and that and more torque in a relative mild package. As cubic inches go up, it is easier to build more power and not loose drive ability.

Although I love my Malibu, I have always been a big fan of big block Novas. They are light, look cool, and are a great platform for a high performance cruiser.

If originality is of no concern, the sky is the limit as to what you can do.

 

[HardHitter]

If in the end, you do want good usable HP and torque for the street, then logic dictates big cubic inches. Cubic inches make torque, and in a true street car, torque is what you are looking for.

If it is in the budget, get a car that is already set up for a big block. But keep in mind, in today's world, the term big block has taken own a new meaning. A 396 is, in physical dimensions and weight, a " big block". But in truth, it is that in name only. One of the more common small block builds now is a 383 CID, that's not far behind a 396 with a tremendous saving in weight..

So, if you find a car with a big block, and "cruising with potential" is you goal, find a 454 or larger. The simple truth is, you can build a 454 that will make 500 good usable street HP and that and more torque in a relative mild package. As cubic inches go up, it is easier to build more power and not loose drive ability.

Although I love my Malibu, I have always been a big fan of big block Novas. They are light, look cool, and are a great platform for a high performance cruiser.

If originality is of no concern, the sky is the limit as to what you can do.

Thank you so much for your quick and thorough response. I guess that is the main thing that I need to state from the start. My budget really is only $10-$15K and if the car is really something that I want, I'll stretch it by a couple of grand, but originally is something that I do not want. Numbers matching, etc all that I could care less because I know I will end up working/changing the car. In addition, "number matched" cars are fetching way out of the price range I have. I'm not looking at this car as an investment.

I found this (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4394209#post4394209) about 8-10 hours away from me. To me, it may be worth the drive to take a look at it.

 

[HKalin]

I'm 62 and have had a number of Camaros, Chevelles, Corvettes, and one Nova. Numbers Matching and even SS aren't a consideration for me anymore either. You can make a nice street car out of a plain Malibu, Nova, or Camaro and not feel guilty your taking value away from the car by building it the way you want. I have a "Plain Jane Malibu" and I'm sure this car is going to make me proud once I get it on the street. The one thing I look for that can prove to be very expensive is to try and start with a car that the body and paint are in good shape, the go fast goodies can be added later if needed.

 

[BillsCamino]

Rare model with 3rd row seating...only 1798 made in '70.
Low mileage, original stock 350/th350 and rust free was a bonus.

Looking back on all the Chevelles I've owned, unique/unusual is what I've always owned and/or built.
Definitely not a "belly button" kind of Chevelle guy...

 

[floyd66]

I always bought Chevelles on emotion. Paid for it many times over. :clonk:

 

[Steve R]

I'm cheap, and like almost all brands of 60's-70's American cars. I like cars that have older paint and cars that look like they were put together with a plan, rather than whatever parts the owner found for the low low at the swapmeet.

I wouldn't get caught up with horsepower, a lot of sellers lie about that. Unless there is a dyno sheet or a time slip pretty much disregard what they are telling you. I have several friends with mild well thought out small blocks in Camaro's and Nova's which don't look impressive on paper that run mid-11's. I have also seen more self proclaimed 500-600 horsepower cars that ran 14's and 15's at the track than you could shake a stick at.

I assume your search takes you beyond CL, around here the cars tend to be either crappy and/or overpriced. It should be part of any search, but I have always had better luck finding cars word of mouth.

Good luck.

Steve R

 

[Jim Mac]

I just try to have a little mad money laying around so when the "deal" pops up I can show up with cash in hand and buy it.
If this is your go to hotrod, I would recommend a big block. Something about popping a hood on a old chevelle and seeing the wide valve covers. I think its been quoted here before. You rarely hear guys talking about their muscle cars and saying "I wished I would have gone with a small block and a automatic."
I love the 454 4 speed in the chevelle. BUT my other new project car is a 307 of all things, th400 67 el camino. Its a great cruizer but definetly lacking in power. jim

 

[1971-Chevelle]

What sold me on my Chevelle is the fact that it was free. My parents bought it new from Chapman Chevrolet in Tempe, Arizona in December of 1971. They gave it to me in 1996. It needed some work - still does - but you just can't beat free.

 

[MoreHPplease]

Thank you so much for your quick and thorough response. I guess that is the main thing that I need to state from the start. My budget really is only $10-$15K and if the car is really something that I want, I'll stretch it by a couple of grand, but originally is something that I do not want. Numbers matching, etc all that I could care less because I know I will end up working/changing the car. In addition, "number matched" cars are fetching way out of the price range I have. I'm not looking at this car as an investment.

I found this (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4394209#post4394209) about 8-10 hours away from me. To me, it may be worth the drive to take a look at it.

I've seen that 68 listed for a while, I'd be really curious to know the real engine specs, if there's a legit build sheet or even if he did it himself, if he sounds competent.

 

[HardHitter]

I've seen that 68 listed for a while, I'd be really curious to know the real engine specs, if there's a legit build sheet or even if he did it himself, if he sounds competent.

Supposedly he says he has all the receipts. I've asked him to take a video of the car exterior, interior and starting the car up. The 502 motor is really nice and all but he said it was built more for drag. May make things difficult on the street.

 

[HKalin]

Supposedly he says he has all the receipts. I've asked him to take a video of the car exterior, interior and starting the car up. The 502 motor is really nice and all but he said it was built more for drag. May make things difficult on the street.

Another thing to consider is how hard is it to pass a car inspection in your state if you bought something like that.

 

[1966_L78]

I've been looking for about 2 months now but patiently been waiting for that right one.

I'm looking really for a cruiser car but at the same time, I want my money to be well spent. I want as much HP/torque for the money so I pose this question:

Is it worth spending the money for the larger motors to basically say "I have a good starting point"

Last thing I want to do is get a car with a 350, the HP isn't enough and I'm there stuck saying "I should of went with a XXX"

well,

First of all, since you want a "cruiser", how important are things like the body, paint, interior, etc... Repairing rust (even in California) can easily cost more money than a powerful "budget" motor...

Also, figure with a "350", you can always add speed parts as you go, or even built another engine on the side, for an eventual swap. 383, etc will likely be able to use the same brackets/pullies, distrib, and maybe even carb/intake/headers/oilpan/etc... Can't really do that with body and paint... And even chassis and brakes, you really should have something "safe" if out cruising the streets...

Have you considered an "LS" swap? Those seem to be a good choice for cruising and decent performance... If you go to a BIG Big Block, then you also have to look at things like transmissions, rearends, etc that can handle the extra power...


As for me, I went looking for a cruiser, and ended up with a stroked 427 small block (the seller was originally offering the car without the engine)... Its fun and addicting, but really more power than I needed or even wanted at the time... But more importantly for me, the body was pretty solid and straight, just needing fresh paint. The drivetrain had been built up to handle the extra power... The interior was nice, except the dash, but it was a Green bench seat. The car was also within a 30 minute drive, so I could personally inspect it (a huge deal for me). And finally, for me, the seller wasn't really actively "marketing" the car (expired ad on TC classifieds) so I didn't feel rushed into the purchase trying to beat the other guys that were "on the way over". While I decided on the spot, I still took a few days to actually complete the transaction.

I put a more "street friendly" (better gas mileage) carb and distributor (Edelbrock and Summit HEI), and ended up putting new (used) wheels and drag radials, and went low 12's pretty easily on 89/91 octane pump gas...

But the most important aspect to me, was the quality of the things that I wasn't comfortable doing myself (body and paint).

 

[HardHitter]

Another thing to consider is how hard is it to pass a car inspection in your state if you bought something like that.

In CA, anything 1975 and older is smog exempt.

 

[HardHitter]

well,

First of all, since you want a "cruiser", how important are things like the body, paint, interior, etc... Repairing rust (even in California) can easily cost more money than a powerful "budget" motor...

Also, figure with a "350", you can always add speed parts as you go, or even built another engine on the side, for an eventual swap. 383, etc will likely be able to use the same brackets/pullies, distrib, and maybe even carb/intake/headers/oilpan/etc... Can't really do that with body and paint... And even chassis and brakes, you really should have something "safe" if out cruising the streets...

Have you considered an "LS" swap? Those seem to be a good choice for cruising and decent performance... If you go to a BIG Big Block, then you also have to look at things like transmissions, rearends, etc that can handle the extra power...


As for me, I went looking for a cruiser, and ended up with a stroked 427 small block (the seller was originally offering the car without the engine)... Its fun and addicting, but really more power than I needed or even wanted at the time... But more importantly for me, the body was pretty solid and straight, just needing fresh paint. The drivetrain had been built up to handle the extra power... The interior was nice, except the dash, but it was a Green bench seat. The car was also within a 30 minute drive, so I could personally inspect it (a huge deal for me). And finally, for me, the seller wasn't really actively "marketing" the car (expired ad on TC classifieds) so I didn't feel rushed into the purchase trying to beat the other guys that were "on the way over". While I decided on the spot, I still took a few days to actually complete the transaction.

I put a more "street friendly" (better gas mileage) carb and distributor (Edelbrock and Summit HEI), and ended up putting new (used) wheels and drag radials, and went low 12's pretty easily on 89/91 octane pump gas...

But the most important aspect to me, was the quality of the things that I wasn't comfortable doing myself (body and paint).

Exactly, that's what I'm dealing with right now. Either the car has a perfect body but crap motor or vice versa, all the money was dumped into the motor but the body needs the work. I can do mechanical work and such, which is why when i'm looking, my money is more going to be spent buying the clean body/rust free/exterior. If it also comes with the extra power (396+) then great, but I think the most important thing is the paint/body because like someones said above, that really adds up ($5K for a paint job + whatever the labor/body work cost + panels if they need to be replaced).

 

[rkd]

I just always wanted a 66 Chevelle. A triple black SS396 would have been the ultimate. But after not seeing a decent one for what I could afford, I found my present 66 Malibu.

A 65, 67 or 68 would not do the trick. Had to be a 66 two door hardtop!

I had watched the car for 10 years for a week every summer, since it lived a couple miles down the road from my Dads house. It worked out being for sale back in 06. It was really kept in the guys barn.

It was decent looking, and running, although poorly, and somewhat affordable.

Some more resto and a big block are in order.

Then back to my hotrod.

Next up is something Model A ish with a flathead.

 

[YankeeRodder]

Found it parked on the street with a sign. Thought, "let it go man,, I don't need a part time job" which these hobbies can become when you take them on. I drove away and couldn't get it off my mind all evening. Went back the next morning gave him a low-ball offer, he balked, we met at half the difference and now "I have a part time job"!! haha

 

[DZAUTO]

I wanted a nice Chevelle conv (64-72, didn't really matter). There were only 2 requirements, Factory air and 4sp. I DID NOT want to pay the premium for an SS.
In 98, right here on TC I ran across a 70 Malibu conv with air and 4sp at a price I could live with. Drove from Okla City straight to Dayton, OH to pick it up and drove it back. We still have it 15yrs later, with several upgrades and repairs. Runs great, everything works, air blows 38-39deg. :thumbsup:

 

[karl]

I could be happy with alot of different cars. I was looking for a 71-72 Camaro/Firebird. I was talking to a workmate and told him this, and that my 2nd choice would be a 70 Chevelle. He said "I have a 70 Chevelle". I asked if he would sell and he said yes, for $1000. I went and looked and it was a 71 Malibu without an engine. I got it for $900. So Cal car with very little rust. Car had been sitting for many years. When i bought it the gas prices were about two dollars a gallon. Now that the gas prices are getting obscene, i wouldn't mind having a 66-68 Fastback Mustang with a 302/5 speed. But the price of these have shot way up too. Try and find something with a straight, rustfree body. 427 makes for a nice BB in a Chevy.

 

[1966_L78]

In CA, anything 1975 and older is smog exempt.

Just to clarifiy...

pre-1975 vehicles are NOT exempt in California...

They are only "currently" exempt from the biennial and transfer testing...not exempt from the equipment.

You are still required to have ALL the correct and functioning smog equipment on your car, and you CAN be required to have your car tested (pretty unusual occurrence, but many law enforcement officers have the authority to cite you, and have you get your car tested).

Plus, just about every-other year some State Legislator (I think it used to be "Flores" from around Fresno area) tries to get the regular testing reinstated for all older cars... I feel its only a matter of time before they are successful.

Back in the mid-to-late 80's, older cars were similarly exempted, only to have the testing requirements reinstated until they were again given the "no test required" in the mid-90s... I remembered trying to smog my '66 Chevelle and a '68 Corvette... PITA I had my other '66 that I still paid yearly registration on, even though there was NO engine... Then the requirement came to smog it, so I started doing "non-Ops" (they used to be paid yearly)... Finally, the Non-ops became a "one-time" deal, which saved me a bundle...

The moral of the story? Keep all those smog parts on a shelf for the day you'll need to reinstall for your test... Install, test, remove and store again... repeat every other year...:sad: