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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was wanting to know what size do most of you guy's use from the reg to the carb? I use a #8 and was wondering if that is to large?That's for a high 10.80 car.I thought I seen on BG's web site where it called for a #6 but I can't find it? Thanks Bill That's running a 502 pump gas.
 

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I ran #8 AN from the pump/filter to the regulator and 2 #6 AN lines from the regulator to the carb. I don't think that fuel line is too big. Just make sure you have a decent pump/filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the replies.I did get onto bg web site and it does state to use a # 6 from reg to carb but that seems small for a BG 400 but I'm sure they know what they are talking about.This is an old problem that I have had that I'm still working on. To much psi/ which I have changed two fuel pumps and two reg's and still can't keep the fuel psi below 12.Also have changed fuel psi gauge three times and still the same. I'm replacing the fuel cell today because the one on the car is caving in and the cap is hard to get on and off so since I'm doing the change I'll see if I can fix this problem at the same time.I see three things that are different on my set-up that are different than what BG calls for.Fuel line size from cell to pump.BG calls for a #12 and I have a # 10.The 2nd thing is the return which BG calls for a #8 and I have a #10.The 3rd thing is BG calls for a # 6 from reg to carb and I have a #8.Will any of the three really make any difference.I really don't know?BILL
 

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driver,

For what it is worth, I have seen a 1000+ HP BBC on the dyno at Reher-Morrison. It used 2 #6 lines from the regulator to carb (one to the front bowl and one to the rear bowl). I asked about it and they mentioned that is all they use and all that is necessary. Every one of the carbs on the shelf outside the dyno had #6 lines.

I also dynoed my 672 HP SBC with the same set-up.

That being said, having #8 is not going to hurt you. I don't really see an issue with the rest of your system either.

Where are you measuring pressure? It is not uncommon to see pressure creep on a deadheaded style regulator. As long as you are not overpowering the floats and maintaining adequate pressure at WOT you should not have a problem.

Hope this Helps,
 

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I run 3/8 on all my cars so far.....Upgrading to 1/2" on the combat rat. we'll see if there is any gains to be had....

Milan
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again.You say you run two #6's and on mine I run two #8"s.When you think about it that's alot of fuel but still you would think you would be able to control it at the reg?BILL The problem is at the reg/just what you mentioned with the gas so bad it will burn your eyes out.I can set the psi at 9 and the next thing you know it's back up to 12 psi at idel.If you set it at 7 psi it will go down to 4 psi.It seems like you have to keep it set on the high side.bill
 

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DragRacer said:
driver,

For what it is worth, I have seen a 1000+ HP BBC on the dyno at Reher-Morrison. It used 2 #6 lines from the regulator to carb (one to the front bowl and one to the rear bowl). I asked about it and they mentioned that is all they use and all that is necessary. Every one of the carbs on the shelf outside the dyno had #6 lines.

I also dynoed my 672 HP SBC with the same set-up.

That being said, having #8 is not going to hurt you. I don't really see an issue with the rest of your system either.

Where are you measuring pressure? It is not uncommon to see pressure creep on a deadheaded style regulator. As long as you are not overpowering the floats and maintaining adequate pressure at WOT you should not have a problem.

Hope this Helps,
Hey Jason, I have been banging my head against the wall trying to figure out why I have pressure creep with my dual regulators/balance tube to my 850 dp. I keep setting them down, and then there isn't enough pressure, you set it right, and up goes the pressure after a cruise by about 1-2 lbs. But it doesn't seem to run any worse. I guess like you said, as long as you aren't overpowering the needle/seat. Maybe I will stop worrying about it.
 

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Is the fuel gauge under the hood or inside the car? I can never get consistent fuel pressure readings under the hood of my car no matter what kind of gauge. Once the underhood temperatures start climbing the was all she wrote. I reluctantly purchased a remote fuel gauge with an isolator and problem solved!
The fact that the fumes (flurocarbons sp?) are burning your eyes at idle likely have more to do with the carburetor tune up than the fuel pressure unless the pressure is so high it's blowing by the needle and seat. With the engine turned off and the fuel pump on do you have fuel leaking into the boosters?
 

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I have the same problem with my pressure gauge under the hood. I had it checked and my pressure was fine but it is the heat under the hood that screws up the guage, especially if it's a fluid filled guage. I run a 468 with 500 hp at the flywheel. I use an Aeromotive pump with a 15 micron filter before and a 10 micron filter after the pump using #8 lines and AN fittings that go into the dead headed aeromotive regulator and 1 #8 line to 750 Speed Demon carb bowls. Like Kjett says if your not dripping fuel into carb with pump on and engine off your fine. If your are dripping fuel check your float heights
 
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