Here is a good read...
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
What oil do you use
I'm trying to figure out the best currently available oils for "built" engines... Flat tappets are a concern, but I see the occasional roller failure too. So I think oil selection is critical to all engines that are upgraded from OEM specs.
Folks on this site run some pretty impressive combo's so I know they have thought this through. So I'm asking for your motor oil preferences ...
Folks on this site run some pretty impressive combo's so I know they have thought this through. So I'm asking for your motor oil preferences ...
1 - 20 of 160 Posts
I've been all over that and have messaged RAT back and forth. But, this is independent of his work...
Other folks have their opinions and ideas and I want to see how they comment
Other folks have their opinions and ideas and I want to see how they comment
Run Mobil 1 5w-30 here. I am curious about the outcome of this. I am wondering if there will be a corrolation with camshaft failures and oil type from 540rats list.
I am also curious if 10w30 mobil 1 is any different from 5w-30
I am also curious if 10w30 mobil 1 is any different from 5w-30
There will be many different opinions of what and why... I use VR1 for street use,10w30.
Mobile 1 in the daily and racer, 5.3 ls and 350 SBC, both have roller lifters. Rotella t in the 83 Toyota 22r engine and kfx 450r quad.
How is the clutch with the rotella on the 450?Mobile 1 in the daily and racer, 5.3 ls and 350 SBC, both have roller lifters. Rotella t in the 83 Toyota 22r engine and kfx 450r quad.
I'd like to use that in my KTM SXF 450.
I use 5/30 mobil 1 in my wifes 11' M6 2SS, 04 5.3 sub.
Pennzoil platinum 10/30 in the 406.
Thank God. Another oil thread!
What is LAT?
I used to use 5-30 Mobil synthetic in all my stuff but in 2007-08 I switched due to a bearing squeal after pouring it into a riding mower that always used it.
The 95 corolla 1.8 4 cylinder used the mobil also and it would get 33 MPG switched to 5-40 T6 rotella and got 35 MPG..Wife's car driven the same paths every time.
The T6 must be freeing up the friction.
Buddy lost the cam in his 66 vette he had Mobil 1 5-30.. but he got it very hot too.
I think the heat killed it.
Same buddy just quit using the Mobil in his 2000 something 3/4 ton chevy truck and is running T6 and getting better MPG and went with it in his wife's honda and said it finally quit clattering.. I do not think the 5-30 mobil is what it used to be..
Some cars like it though
I used to use 5-30 Mobil synthetic in all my stuff but in 2007-08 I switched due to a bearing squeal after pouring it into a riding mower that always used it.
The 95 corolla 1.8 4 cylinder used the mobil also and it would get 33 MPG switched to 5-40 T6 rotella and got 35 MPG..Wife's car driven the same paths every time.
The T6 must be freeing up the friction.
Buddy lost the cam in his 66 vette he had Mobil 1 5-30.. but he got it very hot too.
I think the heat killed it.
Same buddy just quit using the Mobil in his 2000 something 3/4 ton chevy truck and is running T6 and getting better MPG and went with it in his wife's honda and said it finally quit clattering.. I do not think the 5-30 mobil is what it used to be..
Some cars like it though
lucas hot rod and classic oil w/zinc... which just now I see ranks #30 out of a list of 40. Oh well, could have (and have) done worse.
As I have said in other threads, anything in about the top 40 of the list (w/o the additives tests) or about top 45 in the complete list would be a good choice.
Pennzoil has stated that lifter to lobe contact pressures can exceed 200,000 PSI at the point of contact (actual contact patch), so RAT's numbers can not be the be-all, end-all as none of his tests in his rig come up to that value. It has to be something else...
It's very likely the anti-wear (AW) part of the Add Pak that is doing the work at those pressures. Most AW agents take heat cycles to "bake on", so that is not happening for new cams/lifters (any type).
So we're looking for oils with a lot of engines running and few cam failures, even with increased spring pressures, etc. Those running healthy engines with no, or very few failures, will be the ones to watch ...
I have not assembled a really strong engine since these new oils came out. I know what is working in what I already have, but I have a new build on the way in the next year or so ...
This is not a trivial thing and it will only get worse as the Gov't mandates new requirements that the Oil Companies try to solve in different ways ... Since we are into API SN oils with pretty low levels of Phosphorus and Zinc already, they are all scrambling for better solutions. Some are doing better than others, so we'll see...
Pennzoil has stated that lifter to lobe contact pressures can exceed 200,000 PSI at the point of contact (actual contact patch), so RAT's numbers can not be the be-all, end-all as none of his tests in his rig come up to that value. It has to be something else...
It's very likely the anti-wear (AW) part of the Add Pak that is doing the work at those pressures. Most AW agents take heat cycles to "bake on", so that is not happening for new cams/lifters (any type).
So we're looking for oils with a lot of engines running and few cam failures, even with increased spring pressures, etc. Those running healthy engines with no, or very few failures, will be the ones to watch ...
I have not assembled a really strong engine since these new oils came out. I know what is working in what I already have, but I have a new build on the way in the next year or so ...
This is not a trivial thing and it will only get worse as the Gov't mandates new requirements that the Oil Companies try to solve in different ways ... Since we are into API SN oils with pretty low levels of Phosphorus and Zinc already, they are all scrambling for better solutions. Some are doing better than others, so we'll see...
Yeah, sorry I missed that one on the list ...I use LAT.
http://www.rinehartsperformance.com/LAT_Racing_Oil.html
Didn't notice a difference switching from Motul. That's abusing the crap out of it crawling through a creek full of boulders to having fun at the dunes. Still on the stock '08 clutch but did run Motul for the first 2-3 years. Double check the bottle to make sure it has the correct additives for wet clutches, don't think all Rotella flavors have it.How is the clutch with the rotella on the 450?
I'd like to use that in my KTM SXF 450.
I use 5/30 mobil 1 in my wifes 11' M6 2SS, 04 5.3 sub.
Pennzoil platinum 10/30 in the 406.
I been using mobile 1 in m street cars a long time. as for my race or high performance stuff I been using VR1 for a long time. for several reasons. I had a friend who swore by castrol gtx so before a race one time after he had blown his engine for the 3rd time I was short cash but wanted to change my oil, he gave me 6 quarts and told me to try it. now i know mixing or switching oils is not the best thing but beggars can't be choosers lol. that said my oil pressure gage was bouncing and fluttering I showed him this. then another friend bought me the oil i normally use and we swapped it before going to the track oil gage was perfectly steady and fine with the VR1 same grade 20-50 so i don't know why the castrol gtx was causing issues but it convinced me to stay with VR1. this was a 468 ci BBC with moroso pan and melling m77hv pump. any way just my experience. same oil filter was napa gold long filter.
I ran Rotella T synthetic in my old GSXR 1000 race bike with a wet clutch. It was severely abused and still had the factory clutch at 10k miles. The bike saw Road America and Road Atlanta multiple times and never skipped a beat.How is the clutch with the rotella on the 450?
I'd like to use that in my KTM SXF 450.
I use 5/30 mobil 1 in my wifes 11' M6 2SS, 04 5.3 sub.
Pennzoil platinum 10/30 in the 406.
I have used Valvoline exclusively since forever , I use Napa House brand (Re bottled Valvoline) in everything except the tow vehicles , Tow vehicles get Napa Synthetic (Again re bottled Valvoline) . WIX filters , Blocked bypasses and a good cooler. Never an oil related valvetrain failure in over 20 years, both flat tappet (solid and hyd) and roller (solid and hyd) . Guess I'm lucky or the oil is good .
TOM
TOM
I use regular Valvoline 10W30 with a can of Molyslip E;
http://www.molyslip.com/products/oilfuel-supplements/molyslipe-wear-reducing-oil-supplement/
Guy
http://www.molyslip.com/products/oilfuel-supplements/molyslipe-wear-reducing-oil-supplement/
Guy
I voted for the Valvoline, VR1 conventional oil, but after seeing your recent comments/discussions with 540Rat, I just purchased the Valvoline Max, high mileage oil, and will use that from now on.I'm trying to figure out the best currently available oils for "built" engines... Flat tappets are a concern, but I see the occasional roller failure too. So I think oil selection is critical to all engines that are upgraded from OEM specs.
Folks on this site run some pretty impressive combo's so I know they have thought this through. So I'm asking for your motor oil preferences ...
As you know, my 454 is a relatively mild flat tappet cammed engine, so I had used the Valvoline VR1 oil after studying Rat's oil posts. The engine builder recommended Brad Penn, which I did use for awhile with the new 454 engine, then I switched to the aforementioned oil.
But, since my new motor is STILL using 1qt./5-600 miles, , the high mileage oil will save me quite a few $'s for a car driven on a daily basis, and ~15,000 miles/year.
Thanks for the post and oil information, Broc!
Have a GREAT day, too!
Corey
I been using mobile 1 in m street cars a long time. as for my race or high performance stuff I been using VR1 for a long time. for several reasons. I had a friend who swore by castrol gtx so before a race one time after he had blown his engine for the 3rd time I was short cash but wanted to change my oil, he gave me 6 quarts and told me to try it. now i know mixing or switching oils is not the best thing but beggars can't be choosers lol. that said my oil pressure gage was bouncing and fluttering I showed him this. then another friend bought me the oil i normally use and we swapped it before going to the track oil gage was perfectly steady and fine with the VR1 same grade 20-50 so i don't know why the castrol gtx was causing issues but it convinced me to stay with VR1. this was a 468 ci BBC with moroso pan and melling m77hv pump. any way just my experience. same oil filter was napa gold long filter.
I had this issue with Brad Penn!! People thought I was crazy, but I switched to Mobil 1 and everything cleared up and it runs great.
1 - 20 of 160 Posts
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