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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As the title states I’m trying to find a column that deletes the back drive linkage that is floor shift and has tilt. The reason I want to delete it is my headers don’t allow me to put the th400 in first with the stock linkage. I’ve tried the lokar kit with both length rods and had issues with the stock column shift locking randomly and disabling the car. I’m going to start a bench/column to bucket/console conversion so I’m looking to tackle the column now. I was looking at the tmi sport r seat and stock repro console. Car is a 71 Malibu it was originally code 24/24 ascot blue with 725 dark rondel blue interior
 

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Look for a Hurst Autostick 1shifter. They bolt directly to the transmission and have linkage, no cables.. I have never saw a better automatic shifter, they look like a four speed shifter too... As you shift through the gates, they have a very smooth, positive action...

710833
 

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1969 Chevelle 2 Door Sport Coupe Malibu SS 396 clone
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:cool: My two cents:

1) Stock 1968 GTO Console with a '69-76 ratchet shifter from a GTO (this shifter was also used in the '73 and up Chevelles - My 'Bu has this setup and it works great, and it is built like a Sherman tank).

2) Stock console with B&M QuickSilver Shifter (replace the dumb-looking knob with a T Handle. Be advised that the B&M shifter is built like a Jeep).

3) Stock Console with the Staple Shifter modified into a "slap shifter (there's a member here who sells the plate to make the shifter a slapper)."

I'm soured on the Hurst offerings (I had a Dual Gate 4 speed automatic that broke). Their quality control is not what it used to be (perhaps the same can be said for B&M???). However: 1960s HURST AUTO STICK 1 AUTOMATIC SHIFTER GM TURBO 400 TH400 CHEVY OLDS PONTIAC | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Look for a Hurst Autostick 1shifter. They bolt directly to the transmission and have linkage, no cables.. I have never saw a better automatic shifter, they look like a four speed shifter too... As you shift through the gates, they have a very smooth, positive action...

View attachment 710833
I’m wanting to use the factory console and shifter if possible I’ve always liked that style console/shifter
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
:cool: My two cents:

1) Stock 1968 GTO Console with a '69-76 ratchet shifter from a GTO (this shifter was also used in the '73 and up Chevelles - My 'Bu has this setup and it works great, and it is built like a Sherman tank).

2) Stock console with B&M QuickSilver Shifter (replace the dumb-looking knob with a T Handle. Be advised that the B&M shifter is built like a Jeep).

3) Stock Console with the Staple Shifter modified into a "slap shifter (there's a member here who sells the plate to make the shifter a slapper)."

I'm soured on the Hurst offerings (I had a Dual Gate 4 speed automatic that broke). Their quality control is not what it used to be (perhaps the same can be said for B&M???). However: 1960s HURST AUTO STICK 1 AUTOMATIC SHIFTER GM TURBO 400 TH400 CHEVY OLDS PONTIAC | eBay
Thanks I’ll look into the slap shifter plate. I’m hoping there’s a newer model column or aftermarket that’s around 500 or less that will bolt in( I know that’s a tall order lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
you don't need to buy a steering column. Just leave off the rod. I have not had any back drive on any one of my cars for 30 years and have never had any issue. What issue are you having without the backdrive?
When I originally got the car in 2019 it needed everything besides rust repair. I got the car driving with new drivetrain and randomly I started noticing that when I would go to start the car the wheel would be locked and wouldn’t unlock, other times it would unlock and wouldn’t try to start the car it wouldn’t click or anything. My dads buddy is a 20+ year ase mechanic so we took the column apart and swapped the ignition cylinder also checked to see if it had any broken pieces in the column jamming it up and we didn’t. That solved the problem for a about a week then it started again it was just random when it would do it. So next we checked the BD linkage and found out the piece that comes from the column down was modified and welded on so I ordered the lokar kit and that made the problem worse, my dads buddy took the complete linkage off his 70 chevelle 350/350 car i replaced the plastic pieces with new ones and installed it. I haven’t had the locking issue but since I use headers on my 357sbc and we’ve only been able to make it clear them enough to use the shifter to go P,R,N,D,2 and it stops hard going down hard. My trans is a built th400 from Vickers that has a man/auto vb so I’d like to be able to shift it. The car originally had a 250/PG from the factory when I got it the guy had stuck an in-line 6 from a 74/75 nova and a th350 the car was original besides that and a cheap primer job so I’m not sure what was changed when that guy got it but he welded some jacked up engine mounts to the k member and just sat the trans on the crossmember and said it was running driving lol.
 

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I have a 70 Monte 402 4 speed car. The back-drive works in it. When you shift to reverse, it rotates the piece that would have the column shifter and then you can remove the key. As mentioned before, just wire-tie the linkage at the base of the column in the upper most position and call it a day.
 

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Yes I guess I could I was just looking for something that might look a little bit cleaner that having the section that rotates. I didn’t know if there was a go to after market or later year gm that people used on here
All the 69 to 72 columns have a turning sleeve whether column shift, floor shift, automatic or 4-speed. As stated above just attach something to the lever down by the firewall to hold it in position. Could be a plastic cable tie or some type of small home made bracket.
 
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