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this was submitted via email and is being added to this post.

I'm not registered with your site but I ran across this post on your site while looking all over the web for pinout information on the Wells VR715A electronic voltage regulator:
"I have a 68 Chevelle with the original style voltage regulator. I bought the Wells VR715 and need to know what wires go to what pinouts on the new regulator?
- Tim"
This is exactly the question I was trying to answer. Ultimately I contacted Wells Manufacturing and they sent me the pinout info. An exhaustive search of the web (including the Wells website) failed to turn up the needed info the day I needed it. I finally contacted Wells Manufacturing for the info and thought I'd pass it along for those who visit your site.
I sure could have used it when I was desperately searching the online world for the information. This info will save others a big headache as the VR715A is a nearly universal replacement regulator and can be used in virtually any application where a voltage regulator is needed. I tried posting a reply but your security situation prevented me from doing so.
Here's the scoop:
Pin F: Alternator field winding
Pin 2: Alternator stator or "N" terminal
Pin 3: Battery Positive through ignition switch
Pin 4: Lamp connection
Case: Battery Negative
Keep up the good work. And thanks.

Premium Member
4,088 Posts
Good job Al.

Guys remember my paper clip trick. "F" to "3" will give you full field current to your alternator field. A voltage meter connected across the battery will show you the voltage generated by the alternator while maximum field current is applied.

Simply insert the ends of an unbent paper clip into the "F" and "3" positions of the "male" voltage regulator plug and start your engine. With the volt meter attached to the battery rev the engine to approx 1800 RPM and observe voltage.

Do this quickly as the alternator will over heat quickly at that output level. You'll likely see 16 to 20 volts of output from the alternator.

Its a "quick and dirty" way of seeing that your alternator is capable of doing its rated job. It is one diagnostic tool you can use to eliminate the alternator as a cause of a charging system problem.

For those who have an internally regulated alternator (10SI style) you can look at the back of the alternator. There you should find a small "D" shaped hole.

That hole is there to allow you to do the same test as on the externally controlled regulator.

Simply insert a screw driver or an allen wrench into the "D" hole such that it contacts both the metal tab inside the "D" hole and the case of the alternator simultaneously. That will give you full field current.

The same precaution applies here. Do the test quickly since you will be working the alternator hard. Voltages should look the same as on the externally regulated alternator.

For those of you who have a f**d its "F" to "A" on the old externally regulated alternators.

Finally as you look at your voltage regulator you'll note that there is a plastic "overlay" that shrouds the female portion of your regulator. The "F" "2" "3" "4" pin positions are embossed on that overlay. Kinda hard to see but if you look closely you will find them. That will give you a guide as to where to use the paper clip.
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