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Discussion Starter #1
I hope this is the right place to post my question. I've been having a starting problem on my '71 Chevelle w/350ci that I can't seem to fix. Background: Original column shift, I converted to a B&M Quicksilver floor shifter. The B&M shifter has a neutral safety switch so I bypassed the one on the lower column (same deal with the backup lights). For 3 yrs, never had a starting problem, then out of the blue the motor has a tough time starting.

What happens? Well, sometimes I turn the key and I get nothing but the starter solenoid clicking (by this I mean the bendix (?) is moved out to the flexplate - that click, no engine rotation). If I keep turning the key to the start position and back, start postion and back, the car will eventually start. I've changed the starter out, and the problem remains. The kicker is, when this problem arises, if I use a paperclip to 'loop' in the original harness (which I learned to do on this site) the car will ALWAYS start first try. I'm thinking the Neutral Safety Switch on the shifter is bad. What do you guys think?

I want to goto the track and don't want this problem to arise while going through tech. Thanks for any help!!
 

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I'm assuming:
You soldered on the original wires, for the new NSS.
The original NSS switch connector is still under the dash.
When you jump it with a paper clip, you are using the NSS connector under the dash.
If so, the problem is with the B & M NSS.
1, Bad connection. I assumed you soldered the wires.
2, New NSS is not adjusted right or bad switch. With the key off. You should read a dead short (0 ohms) between the 2 contacts of the original NSS connector. Shifter should be in neutral. Try making this measurement.
Not sure why the solenoid is engaging. Usually a bad NSS gives you nothing when you turn the key. Try making the measurement anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply John. I unplugged the original harness from the original NSS, put spade ends on the wires going to the B&M NSS and plugged them into the original harness. I know this is really cheesy, but it's worked for 3 yrs without fail. Now a problem has developed. The original NSS is still in its place on the column. I haven't touched the adjustment of the B&M NSS since I installed the shifter 3 1/2 yrs. ago.

When I jump it with the paper clip, I unplug the spade connectors coming from the B&M NSS from the original harness. Then insert each end of the paper clip into each side of the harness. Car starts everytime first try.

I just recently bought a soldering iron and I'm not good enough to use it on my car so I'll be soldering the connection soon, but I want to splice in my original harness in case I have NSS problems down the road.

Thanks for the help. I'll try to get a ohmeter measurement when I get home.
 

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I (finally) got around to hooking up my NSS on a B&M Z-Gate last week, and added a backup light switch at the same time.
The B&M NSS (on a Z-Gate)is a lever action microswitch mounted with 2) 4-40 machine screws and nuts. One mounting point is a hole, the other is a slot. Makes for about 1/8" adjustment. I'm assuming the Quicksilver is similar.

Move from Drive to Neutral, you should hear a slight "click" from the switch, or pop the cover off the shifter and measure at the connector tabs in Neutral / Park. Should read 0 Ohms. If not adjust the switch so the cam or bump on the shifter presses it fully and remeasure. Be careful tightening the screws or you'll crack the switch housing. A drop of Locktite blue would be good here as well.
 

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I have a question. How much amperage is going through the NSS circuit ?. I know there are variables here but the reason I'm asking is that I wonder if the small micro switch is rated at let's say 5A and the circuit is passing 10A and slowly deteriorating the switch.
I just look at those small switches and even though they may be "rated" at a paticular value how long will they last if that value is exceeded or if it's not rated properly. I've had 20A switches fail that are fused before them with a 10A fuse and the fuse has never blown but the switch contacts have failed or burned up.
If the small micro switch is needed to make a circuit work but cannot be of a large enough rating then an external relay could be wired to the small micro switch to take the load off of it.

Jim
 

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Sounds like a bad NSS to me. Using an ohmmeter on one of these things can be misleading. It can show no resistance on your meter, but when you put current to it, it'll break open on you. Run a voltage drop test & be sure that you see less than about .2 volts. You run the test by setting the meter to the 12v range, connect one lead to one side of the NSS and the other lead to the other side of the switch. Hit the starter & see what you get. On the drag car I had, I used a F**d solenoid that was switched by the starter button. The solenoid acted like a relay so you didn't have to send a lot of current through the NSS. :D

BL
 
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