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Weird fuel gauge reading issue

490 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  LevonH
I never really had filled my gas tank to the neck before but a few weeks ago I did. As soon as I started it up at the gas station the needle went way past F. See pic below. I just figured it was an in accurate gauge. So I have about 100 miles on it since and it’s still reading past full. Could the needle be stuck?
I put a borescope in the tank. It’s about 1/2 full and the float is at that level, not stuck up high. Thoughts?
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Usually, that's a wiring issue, but a wiring issue as soon as you fill the tank?
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It could just be that the tank lost its ground.
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Usually, that's a wiring issue, but a wiring issue as soon as you fill the tank?
Exactly my thought.
So I pulled the connector in the trunk. Grounded the tan wire coming from the sending unit that runs back to the the dash. Turned the key on and the gauge reads E.
I then put 90 ohms resistance between that wire and ground and the gauge reads a tad past F. So the gauge and the wiring is good.
I then ohmed out the tan wire going to the sending unit and it reads 15meg-ohm. 🙁. Since this issue started immediately upon filling the tank, I think it’s safe to assume that the sending unit arm went to the full position and then something internal broke. That sucks.
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Time to pull the tank. Get one of these check valve siphon hose with 3/4 diameter. Put something on the floor to catch any that gets away.
HORUSDY Gas Siphon 6FT
Rick
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I siphoned it and yanked it. Not too bad. Took about 20 minutes. I pulled the sending unit. It’s bad.
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That’s what I get for filling my tank all the way up.
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I pulled the sending unit. It’s bad.
I'm guessing you took a meter to it to see if it swung from 0 ohms to about 90 ohms when the float arm is manually moved through it full travel ?.

If you used the factory connection points and depending on the design of the sender is on some originals there is the push on connector on the topside of the sender and this is to an insulated through pin and then on the underside a flat piece of metal with a hole in the end has the end of the through pin going through it and then secured with a push on locking washer. I have seen sometimes a poor connection between this pin and the flat metal strip.

I then have seen the other end of this flat strip then riveted to the housing that internally contains the wraps of wires to get the different resistance values. Sometimes this riveted connection is not good.

The last thing I've seen is sometime not enough tension on the wiper arms contact to the windings of wire inside the sender housing. A little rebending to get more tension sometimes gets things working as well as some contact cleaner if the wraps of wire have corrosion on them and/or the wiper arms button.

Sometimes there is a break in the windings and for that a whole sending unit replacement is the way to go.

Jim
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Jim, thanks for the follow up. Yea, I have the original AC Delco unit and it has the strap leading to the push through pin on the underside. I checked right on the strap itself of the float and it was open. After moving it back and forth a few times, I got a reading out of it but it was not correct. It read 25 ohms at the bottom and 135 ohms at the top. It was intermittent as well. Would occasionally go to the k-ohm scale and then open again. I thought about contact cleaner but since it’s inside the tank, I was not going to take a chance on it failing again a month later. I ordered a Dorman replacement. Should be here today. $33 on Amazon.
Here is the original;
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Just for giggles remove the wiper cover and have a look see. If you had no sock on the inlet it may just be full of debris.
Levon, the wiper assy is mounted to the side of the fuel tube, so it just sits in the tank submerged.
I did open it up anyway. Pretty worn. I put the new one in today. All good now 👍
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Great to hear.
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