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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well LS motors are alot of money and fabrication i think we are putting the 406 from the chevelle in my wifes camaro and biulding another motor for the chevelle. I am looking to go low to mid 10s with a sbc i dont mind using nitrous. I would like to use a stock block with streetable compression i will still drive it some on the street so pump gas is a must i am on a budget i do understand fast and budget dont really go together but i know there are some nice 383s and 406s out there running well. I will run a forged rotating assembly and aluminum heads i like darts real well but open to sugestions. Does anybody have suggestions on what sbc could be biult the cheapest and most reliable to reach my goal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
the new motor will be going in the chevelle it weighs about 3650 wth me in it and i will be doing a cage and suspension tuning also. I plan to run MT drag radials or ET streets. thanks for any help
 

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Kevin

This is my goal at some point as well.

I think in a chevelle it is about weight with a SBC.

Maybe get it as light as possible with keeping the stock look.

How much NOS? I can see a 200 shot doing the job...

Do you have E85 up there? That would be even easier!!

I think a aftermarket block is really needed for what you are doing.

I'm going to say if you use 93 octane...you are going to have to use 11 to 1 compression, a 215 to 220 head, and a big cam...like 260 to 270 @ .050.

4:10 gears at less...probably 4:33's and or 4:56's

28 inch tire..

5000 stall....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kevin

This is my goal at some point as well.

I think in a chevelle it is about weight with a SBC.

Maybe get it as light as possible with keeping the stock look.

How much NOS? I can see a 200 shot doing the job...

Do you have E85 up there? That would be even easier!!

I think a aftermarket block is really needed for what you are doing.

I'm going to say if you use 93 octane...you are going to have to use 11 to 1 compression, a 215 to 220 head, and a big cam...like 260 to 270 @ .050.

4:10 gears at less...probably 4:33's and or 4:56's

28 inch tire..

5000 stall....
not much E85 around here. i will be using 93 from the pump maybe a little 110 at the track. looking to run around 10.5-1comp. and up to a 200 shot dont really want any more than that. If i ca n afford a big cube sbc i would run N/A if i could get 10.80s i would be happy.
 

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What is your budget? will it be driven on the street alot? you can make it run that fast N/A at that weight but it will probably be way over budget, IMO hit it with a shot

you could look at the combo "sheetmetal" has, he runs 10.00 natrually aspirated with the ported old afr 195s, but i think he weighs less than you.

If you get the combo right it can be done on a budget, my 3200lb nova runs the equivilant of high 10s in the 1/4 with a flat tappet cam and brodix ik200 heads that only flow 260cfm and 176cfm.
with a great set of heads and a nice solid roller you can get it done on a budget, but the combo has to be perfect, the heads i would reccomend for this are the afr 220 heads, they use all standard stuff and flow something like 320cfm, and the cam should probably be a custom grind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What is your budget? will it be driven on the street alot? you can make it run that fast N/A at that weight but it will probably be way over budget, IMO hit it with a shot

you could look at the combo "sheetmetal" has, he runs 10.00 natrually aspirated with the ported old afr 195s, but i think he weighs less than you.

If you get the combo right it can be done on a budget, my 3200lb nova runs the equivilant of high 10s in the 1/4 with a flat tappet cam and brodix ik200 heads that only flow 260cfm and 176cfm.
with a great set of heads and a nice solid roller you can get it done on a budget, but the combo has to be perfect, the heads i would reccomend for this are the afr 220 heads, they use all standard stuff and flow something like 320cfm, and the cam should probably be a custom grind.
i have seen alot of your post you have a very good running combo. i will drive on the street a good bit i may just do another 406 with a solid roller and nice heads with a good rotating assembly and try fo 10.80s that would be a fun street car and i dont see any reason it would not go that fast with everything just right and the chassis working well. then if im not happy i could always spray 125-150.
 

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Maybe look into buying a used Procharger? Boost makes everything easier. A fairly mild 383sbc with a D1sc Procharger, blow through carb and a little hydro roller would go bottom 10's on pump and probably mid 9's on race fuel assuming you get the rest of the combo right. It has been my experience that boost makes everything easier. Not to mention that a low 10 second sbc is not going to be very street friendly in N/A form. A boosted sbc would drive like a Camry and knock down 10's with a plug wire pulled...JMHO.
 

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I am hoping to run 11.30's N/A and high 9's on a 225 shot. I will be taking it to the track Saturday for the first time with this motor. Here is the combo.

Forged 406 short block (studded 2 bolt main)
Professionally Ported Brodix 200cc Race-Rite (The Competition Ported AFR210's are very similar to these)
Comp Cams XR300HR
Super Victor Intake
850 holley dp

My Chevelle weighs 3750 with me in it. It has a Th400 and a Moser 12bolt with 4.11 gears. It spanked an uncles high 11 second Camaro by over 4 car lengths so it should easily be mid 11's on motor.

This motor drives like a dream. Ton of low end pull while holding power up to about 6500. I drove the car with 3.08 gears for a while before the 4.11's and it drives great with both. Here is little video of how it runs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am hoping to run 11.30's N/A and high 9's on a 225 shot. I will be taking it to the track Saturday for the first time with this motor. Here is the combo.

Forged 406 short block (studded 2 bolt main)
Professionally Ported Brodix 200cc Race-Rite (The Competition Ported AFR210's are very similar to these)
Comp Cams XR300HR
Super Victor Intake
850 holley dp

My Chevelle weighs 3750 with me in it. It has a Th400 and a Moser 12bolt with 4.11 gears. It spanked an uncles high 11 second Camaro by over 4 car lengths so it should easily be mid 11's on motor.

This motor drives like a dream. Ton of low end pull while holding power up to about 6500. I drove the car with 3.08 gears for a while before the 4.11's and it drives great with both. Here is little video of how it runs.

YouTube - Dash Cam
That would be a fun street car also I would be happy running 11.00s-11.30s on motor then if I could spray about 125 and run 10.50ish that would be good for me. I want something fast but but also streetable that's why I think another 406 because the one I have now is extremly mild and runs 12.20s and I think it will go 12.00s possibly 11.9999999 with tuning but that would be it and that would be with everything perfect.I'm looking at maybe forged 406 10.5-1, solid cam,210AFR or 215Dart,single plane intake,HP950,4000stall,4.10gears and M/T drag radials.
 

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Kevin
You were looking for a 11.99 just about a week ago, now you are looking for 10's wow!!!
If you are going to use a considerable amount of spray (200+) I would use an aftermarket block, crank, etc etc,,,,,
Building a street small block to run mid 11's is obtainable, hell with a bit of work you already got that!!!!
But spraying it 200+ to run your 10 second goal its not going to be that reliable with the stock stuff.

Dave
 

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I would build a 383 with flat tops and 64 cc heads. Profiler 210s is what i would run. roller cam low to mid 250s @50 on a 108. block should be fine. I ran a 406 for years with stock crank rods 175 shot ran mid 10s. 4000 to 4500 stall, could go up a little on cam if you get closer to 4500 it will leave good on 200 shot.
 

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well LS motors are alot of money and fabrication i think we are putting the 406 from the chevelle in my wifes camaro and biulding another motor for the chevelle. I am looking to go low to mid 10s with a sbc i dont mind using nitrous. I would like to use a stock block with streetable compression i will still drive it some on the street so pump gas is a must i am on a budget i do understand fast and budget dont really go together but i know there are some nice 383s and 406s out there running well. I will run a forged rotating assembly and aluminum heads i like darts real well but open to sugestions. Does anybody have suggestions on what sbc could be biult the cheapest and most reliable to reach my goal.
Cheapest and most reliable. Take it from a guy that pissed away a bunch of time and a little money putting splayed caps on a factory 2 bolt 400 block for himself. (I own a machine shop) Add a few extra bucks to your budget and buy a Dart SHP block. It will allow you to achieve your goals without the worries of fretting the front and back caps, possibly splitting a bore, pulling head bolt threads, etc. Building a 12 sec engine, by all means use a stock block. Shooting for 10's? That's aftermarket block territory.
 

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Cheapest and most reliable. Take it from a guy that pissed away a bunch of time and a little money putting splayed caps on a factory 2 bolt 400 block for himself. (I own a machine shop) Add a few extra bucks to your budget and buy a Dart SHP block. It will allow you to achieve your goals without the worries of fretting the front and back caps, possibly splitting a bore, pulling head bolt threads, etc. Building a 12 sec engine, by all means use a stock block. Shooting for 10's? That's aftermarket block territory.
Im running a 4 bolt 350 block, with just main studs. would you recommend an aftermarket block for mine?
 

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I'm looking at maybe forged 406 10.5-1, solid cam,210AFR or 215Dart,single plane intake,HP950,4000stall,4.10gears and M/T drag radials.
This sounds like a good plan. Don't build it to spin to the moon and that 150 shot should be just fine.

I know the stock 400 block has weaknesses, but we have a bunch running 9's and 10's with a 225 shot and not one block has had any problems. Now I just jinxed it:D

Our engine builder says no more than a 225shot on the stock block keeping it under 7000rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Kevin
You were looking for a 11.99 just about a week ago, now you are looking for 10's wow!!!
If you are going to use a considerable amount of spray (200+) I would use an aftermarket block, crank, etc etc,,,,,
Building a street small block to run mid 11's is obtainable, hell with a bit of work you already got that!!!!
But spraying it 200+ to run your 10 second goal its not going to be that reliable with the stock stuff.

Dave
Sorry to be confusing Dave but iwas lokoking for 11.99 and still am for that motor. We have baught my wife a 68 Camaro with no motor.we decided The drivetrtain from the Chevelle will go in the camaro and a new motor will be done for the Chevelle with a forged rotating assembly and aluminum heads. The 406 that is in it now runs and srives really well and that's what we want for the camaro so we are using it instead of tearing a good motor apart to change most of it then biulding one for the camaro also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cheapest and most reliable. Take it from a guy that pissed away a bunch of time and a little money putting splayed caps on a factory 2 bolt 400 block for himself. (I own a machine shop) Add a few extra bucks to your budget and buy a Dart SHP block. It will allow you to achieve your goals without the worries of fretting the front and back caps, possibly splitting a bore, pulling head bolt threads, etc. Building a 12 sec engine, by all means use a stock block. Shooting for 10's? That's aftermarket block territory.
I looked at the Dart SHP block and for the price it looks like it would only be about $400-500 more than a stock block by the time all the machine work was done. I am on a budget but $500 for a stronger block really isn't bad but the Little M is out of my range.what work would need done to the block before it could be put together. The way I understand the add it don't have the bores finished so does it just need honed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is a 350 block any better than a 400 block? Or what is the best production block. I know I probly should do an aftermarket bock but I was thinking about maybe just a nice N/A combo. I have a few months atleast before I can start buying parts but just trying to get a plan together so I can reserch everything about it to make it right. Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Skip White on ebay has some bowtie blocks for about $850 I believe that may be an option. Darts are real nice though way worth the money to spend on them. Night and day over a GM production 400 block.:yes:
Thanks I will check those out that's more in my range.
 

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I have a GM Sportsman block with splayed caps.....it is heavy though.
 
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