[C-Pep's 71]

I just received the shock of my life... My 1971 Chevelle has a 1995 Vortec Engine in it!!! During the purchasing of the vehicle I was simply told it had a rebuilt engine/motor that I assumed was the orginal. After countless problems, the repair shop informed me yesterday that the motor was likely from a 1995 Chevy C1500 Truck!!!!!, and that this could possibly explain why after ordering parts for a 71 350 engine, things like the starter, etc. was giving me trouble. I have a few questions.
1. Is this standard pratice to put truck engines in cars?
2. If the engine is from the 90's, why is it not fuel injected instead of having a carb?
3. The most important, is this a good engine? What kind of "life" does the engine have, can I expect trouble from this engine down the line?
4. If it was YOU, what would you do? Keep the engine or swap it out etc?
As always, thanks for ALL info and support!!!!!

 

[Hi-po SS 454]

You have got a decent stock engine, its an engine in trucks and cars. Who ever purchased the engine either took the fuel inj. off or it was bought without it and a carb was used. I have that engine in my 96 suburban and the heavy truck moves out real good. I bought the suburban new in 96 and the only trouble I have had is with the fuel injection injectors.. I think the Vortec came out in 96.
Your next engine should be a 454.

 

[Andy's Auto Repair]

Vortecs came out in 1996, not 1995. The easiest way to tell if you rock an L31 is the intake bolts. Is there eight 13mm bolts that that stand straight up? Or twelve 9/16 head bolts at a 45 degree angle? The VIn code for an L31 is R. The vin for 88-95 TBI engines is K.

 

[C-Pep's 71]

Hi-po SS 454, you are right, the 454 should be next, but right now, I just want to get this one running. In the four years I've had it, its been parked more than it's been on the road...

 

[C-Pep's 71]

Andy's Auto Repair, should I start asking for parts for a 1996 Chevy C1500 then? Unfort, they didn't pull the engine enough to read the vin number on the engine. Alot of guess work....

 

[Andy's Auto Repair]

Hi-po SS 454, you are right, the 454 should be next, but right now, I just want to get this one running. In the four years I've had it, its been parked more than it's been on the road...

Aaron, sorry bud. I thought we were talking small block. The Vortec name did come out in 96, but 95s vintage BBC were virtually identical. And a very good engine as a base. Heads arent great but stock early 70 ovals bolt right to them.

 

[C-Pep's 71]

Glad to hear its a good engine. Hopefully now with the correct parts I can drive her...

 

[sschevellefan]

Ok, if it came from a C1500 then we are talking small block 350 because as far as I know they didnt put the 454 in a c1500.

Aaron, we need to know what size e`re talking about here. If it is a sbc then you need to know which one you have. As Andy mentioned the vortecs ran from 1996-2000 and the intake manifold is very specific as are the cylinder heads.

What parts do you need? Some will interchange with a chevelle but most wont. Can you get a picture of the engine and intake manifold?

 

[Highway Star]

It is either a vortec or from a '95. If it isn't a vortec it was factory equipped with a tbi unit. They may think it is a vortec engine from the centerbolt valve covers which fit on a "193" headed tbi engine or on a "906" or "062" headed vortec engine.

It might make a difference so I'll ask...what side is the alternator on?

 

[427L88]

The man said "ordering parts for a 71 350". Where did this BBC thing come from?

 

[JamesC459]

You have a 350 chevy. It doesn't matter what year the block is. The starter mounts in the same place on all of them. If you have a TH350 transmission and a 168 tooth flywheel you have what came from the factory in about 65% of what all chevy cars and light trucks came from the factory with from 1969 to 1985. Whether you use a car or truck starter is irrelevant, they are the same thing. Any external accessory piece will bolt on will be the same.
They only fly in the ointment may be the intake manifold bolt angle on the center 4. Heads made after 1986 ish have them at a different angle.

 

[C-Pep's 71]

Just got the car back from the shop. A new distrubator, starter, and flywheel was installed (all ordered for the 95/96 Chevy C1500). Also, the electric choke on the carb was rewired to the distrubator, and the carb adjusted and everything timed. She started up, but there is a vacum leak which makes her sometimes sputter before picking back up with the normal idel speed. Also found out that someone had the carb "wide open" as well. Only problem now is that after turning her off and waiting 15-30 minutes she still takes about 2 "turn overs" to start and you may have to "pat" the gas. I'm getting mixed signals from the mechanic on this as he says the vacum leak is throwing the timing off which is requiring the 2-3 turn overs. Once the vacum leak is fixed it should start up everytime on the first try. The mechanic is saying the engine has to be "pulled" to fully view the engine number. I've attached a photo, hope this helps. The carb is an Edbrock but has been changed to a Holly.

 

[71350SS]

:noway:

Just got the car back from the shop. A new distrubator, starter, and flywheel was installed (all ordered for the 95/96 Chevy C1500). Also, the electric choke on the carb was rewired to the distrubator, and the carb adjusted and everything timed. She started up, but there is a vacum leak which makes her sometimes sputter before picking back up with the normal idel speed. Also found out that someone had the carb "wide open" as well. Only problem now is that after turning her off and waiting 15-30 minutes she still takes about 2 "turn overs" to start and you may have to "pat" the gas. I'm getting mixed signals from the mechanic on this as he says the vacum leak is throwing the timing off which is requiring the 2-3 turn overs. Once the vacum leak is fixed it should start up everytime on the first try. The mechanic is saying the engine has to be "pulled" to fully view the engine number. I've attached a photo, hope this helps. The carb is an Edbrock but has been changed to a Holly.

A couple of things jump out.First of all almost every carbed engine out there will require some throttle movement to get a little gas in the manifold to start after sitting in a "hot engine soak".That means you shut off a hot motor but the water pump isn't turning and water isn't flowing anymore so initially the water temp will go up but should start to drop after sitting awhile.The longer you run the engine the longer the cool down time.Cast iron motors hold their heat longer than aluminum motors.So its natural to have to add a little fuel by "patting the gas pedal" and cranking it over a little longer.
Second,the small block Chevy is one of the easiest engine's to decode out there and all the numbers are easily viewed with a mirror and flashlight.Sounds to me like your mechanic isn't familiar with Chevy's.If I'm not mistaken a 95 SBC should have a "350" cast into the side of the block.

Look at this link.
http://www.camaros.org/drivetrain.shtml
this should help you find out what you got.Thanks Brian

 

[C-Pep's 71]

71350SS, thank-you for your insight!!!!! I will mention all of this to the mechanic. I thought the engine code would be easy to find, but the mechanic is having a tough time... Last question, what can I do to ensure that the carb will fire the engine on the very first time???

 

[bowtieboy67]

Looks like a non vortec intake due to bolt angle, and you can almost see center intake bolts.

 

[C-Pep's 71]

bowtieboy67, I'm going to have the engine code pulled so I can know what the true engine is. Ex. Year/make etc.

 

[bowtieboy67]

bowtieboy67, I'm going to have the engine code pulled so I can know what the true engine is. Ex. Year/make etc.

I'd just look at the casting # on the heads and see what they is too :yes:

Really the main visible diff between vortec and tbi is the intake/heads. Easily identifiable by the intake bolt pattern.

 

[Georgia69]

It's probably just an older 350 with vortec heads.

 

[LeoP]

Find another mechanic, that one is a grease monkey.

 

[Highway Star]

Loosening 4 bolts will remove that driver side valve cover. There is nothing else to it. That is the only way to know what heads are on there...to read the casting number.Probably would take more time to find the tools than to do the actual work....at my house anyways.