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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've got a 383 that I've decided to upgrade with a roller valvetrain (instead of the Comp 270H that's in it now) as well as a set of CNC chambered 200cc Canfield heads or AFR 195's with 65cc chambers. With 65cc chambers, I'll have about 10.6:1 static compression...I live at high altitude so I'm not the least bit concerned with detonation...more on that later. It has a Weiand Stealth dual plane and currently, a 600cfm Eddy carb (I plan to upgrade that to a 750 Demon or Holley). The car has a 700r4 tranny with a stock converter (would go up to 2500 rpm stall if necessary) and a 3.55:1 posi rear. It's 99% street car with very occasional trips to the track. I also run power brakes...but no A/C...we don't need it here...I've still got snow drifts in my yard :)

I'll soon be living in Laramie, WY at 7200 feet of elevation and the track is at 5000 feet.

I'm wavering between the Voodoo 60111 and the 60112 for a number of reasons. 60111 duration at .050 specs are 219/227 and the 60112 at .050 is 231/239.

I'm concerned about the idle quality of the 60112, its street manners, and whether or not it'll provide enough vacuum for power brakes. I also live at high altitude so that changes the ballgame a bit...at least from what I know shorter duration cams tend to do better up here than at sea level. On the other hand...I'd like to run 12's on the motor at the track if possible.

Can someone make a recommendation for me?
 

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It's gonna be a gamble with the 112 IMO I barely get by on mine with a 240- 240 solid on 108. If the Voodoo was at 112 it might be doable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you referring to the LSA? The 60112 being on a 110 and the 60111 being on a 112. SO you mean getting by with the bigger cam might be iffy right?
 

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IMO at 7200 you need to trap air in the cylinder by early intake valve closing. use the short cam, advance cam 4°.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you recommending the smaller cam b/c of my altitude or b/c the bigger cam is simply too big for good street manners?

Also...are you saying to advance the cam solely because I'm at high altitude? Will this make the cam behave like a smaller cam?

Thanks for the advice btw :)
 

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If you want to be full confidence in your power brakes, stick with the 60111. The 60112 might make for a stiff pedal in certain situations.

It should be advanced 4-6° simply because this is it's "happy spot". Installing this cam straight up would just leave torque on the table without any gain up top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I thought that retarding a cam would make gains up top and advancing a cam has the opposite effect? Or am I going crazy?
 

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i have the 60122 which is the 60112 but for a factory roller block. have yet to start it. mine also has brodix ik180's on it.

a member here has the 60112 (i think), with afr 195's in a 383, and says its a hoot to drive, and has enough vac for power brakes.


aaron
 

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a member here has the 60112 (i think), with afr 195's in a 383, and says its a hoot to drive, and has enough vac for power brakes.
aaron
:yes:

60112 will run power brakes fine. Hyd rollers have exceptional street manners, you can get away with way more than you could with a hyd flat tappet.

Where do you shift? I agree with tom though, it may be a good idea to go with the 60111. I'm only 500 ft elevation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The motor only has 2 bolt mains w/ARP studs so shift points will likely be around 5800. I'd feel pretty uneasy pushing the motor over 6000. I'm not overly concerned with top end power...it's a 99% street driven car.
 

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I have the 60112 HR in a 383 with dual plane and older AFR 180's and it has good brakes and idles at 850 to 900 (Sounds awesome!) RUNS even BETTER!

Doesn't seem to quit pulling even at above 6300!
 

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I'm going to have to ditch my junky stock 400 connecting rods so I can poke mine up to those rpm levels.
 

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On Harold's recommendation, I'm running a voodoo 60112 HR this year. She's been going about a month, I still have some tuning to do on the new efi, and havn't pushed her over 5500 yet.

Idle is "middle-wicked" with 11-12" of vacuum @ 900 rpm. She will idle at 700, vac drops to 10.

Street manners with a tko500 (3.27 low) and 3.08 gear are fantastic. She'll idle around town at 1500 rpm in third gear forever without complaining. So far, power is very very strong. Need to richen WOT a bit so I can fully enjoy it.

Engine is a 383, AFR 195 heads, 10.5:1 comp.
 

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Hey Chad, I have a 60111 Vodoo on my shelf right now, that I was going to use in my 383 build. Just some food for thought, and I do not know what type of rods you are running, but the 60111 would not clear my rods in my recent 383 build, hence thats why it is sitting on my shelf. I ordered the cam from Jegs and totally overlooked that I needed a small base circle cam which the 60111 is not, too have enough rod clearance.

You probably know all of the above, but thought I would chime in so someone doesn't make the same mistake as I did. I bought the cam and it was more than 90 days, when I found out it wouldn't work, so I could not return it. Good luck, lets us know what you go with!!!
 

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in anxious to hear how my motor will sound, since i have yet to fire it up, so do you guys have any sound clips of it idling? how about any track or dyno numbers?


aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
On Harold's recommendation, I'm running a voodoo 60112 HR this year. She's been going about a month, I still have some tuning to do on the new efi, and havn't pushed her over 5500 yet.

Idle is "middle-wicked" with 11-12" of vacuum @ 900 rpm. She will idle at 700, vac drops to 10.

Street manners with a tko500 (3.27 low) and 3.08 gear are fantastic. She'll idle around town at 1500 rpm in third gear forever without complaining. So far, power is very very strong. Need to richen WOT a bit so I can fully enjoy it.

Engine is a 383, AFR 195 heads, 10.5:1 comp.
Well that's not bad...when I was living in Minnesota much closer to sea level my little Comp 270 wasn't pulling more than 13 to 14 inches at 700 rpm...and idle was a bit erratic that low.

Does anyone think I'll have cam-rod interference with 5.7" rods and the 60112 w/o a small base circle?
 

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i used to run a comp 242/248 hr in my 383 with power breaks and all was good. i run the voodoo 231/239 hr cam in my 496 (not apples to apples) theres no hint of a cam at idle at all and plenty of vacuum. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah...I hear ya...but you live in Houston nearly at sea level. Engines produce a lot less vacuum at 7000 feet :) It's pretty amazing the effect altitude can have on an NA motor...ever driven over Eisenhower on I-70 in Colorado (~11000 feet) and you know what I mean. Still...makes me want to take a chance on the 60112. Maybe I'll just switch over to a hydroboost and fuggetaboutit.
 

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in anxious to hear how my motor will sound, since i have yet to fire it up, so do you guys have any sound clips of it idling? how about any track or dyno numbers?


aaron
Whaddaya waiting for man!! ;)

I just have this short clip, its not even a full throttle run. Other clips I've made just sound like hell but its a magnaflow stainless x-pipe kit and exhaust dumping in front of the axle.

http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/...e photos/?action=view&current=chevellevid.flv
 

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I thought that retarding a cam would make gains up top and advancing a cam has the opposite effect? Or am I going crazy?
Generally speaking, you are correct. However, when you move too far away from the "happy spot"(best average power) you usually end up loosing on one end more than you gain on the other.

The assymetrical design of the voodoos move the "happy spot" ahead by about 4°. A voodoo on a 110 LSA likes an ICL of 106°

---You can get voodoo cams with small base circles and varying LSAs directly from Lunati.

I believe a small base circle 60112 spread out to a 112° LSA installed at 106° ICL is what you're after. It'll make for a powerband that's as wide as the day is long.:thumbsup:
 
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