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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a few problems getting the new engine restarted. Something I never noticed before (although that doesn't mean anything) is that the voltmeter pegs zero (and the electric fan shuts off) when I crank the starter. For the life of me, I cannot remember if this is normal. Since I haven't even gotten a hint of firing, I was thinking maybe I have a short somewhere in my starter circuit which may be affecting ignition. Or, more likely, the new carb is flooding engine and my timing is off.

Of course, when I let the key return to "run", the electric fan comes back on and the voltmeter goes right back to 12.8V or there abouts.....autometer gauges, by the way....

Thanks,
 

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IF your battery has a full charge, you, more than likely, have a faulty connection..either a bad ground or a bad battery cable connection. The starter draws so much current that the bad connection shows up only when the attempt to start the engine is made. Check BOTH battery cables carefully. Be sure the connections are clean and tight...on both ends. The problem is NOT carb related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, that's not good news but it's a start. The battery is an Optima red top - may not be in real great shape due to the fact it's been partially discharged and recharged so many times over the past 2 years. But the cables and connectors (and wiring harness) are all brand new - Ron Francis. I ran 4 large ground wires just to make sure I'd get a good ground - one to a starter bolt, one to a motor mount, one to the frame and one to the body.

I finally got it to run tonight and the battery hung tough through several 5-10 second cranks. Sooooo - maybe the last minute hack job kevin did on the wiper motor is the problem - I'll disconnect all that and see if it still does the same thing. I was reading through my notes and did ask about the voltmeter pegging zero when I picked the car up. Answer was: "All single wire alternator systems do that...."

Any further inight much appreciated!
 

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It could be in your ignition switch; I've seen it before. It's really evident if you no longer have the yellow wire going from the solenoid R terminal to the + terminal on the coil. A quick fix would be to use the yellow wire, as that would at least enable ignition during cranking.
 

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After re-thinking your question, and seeing that you did get it running, which means you have ignition, I looked up an old page I did when discussing a 68 ignition switch a long time ago. the page is here: http://personal.riverusers.com/~mcphelps/Switch/

In it, you can see that while cranking the engine, anything connected to the "accessory" line is disconnected from the circuit, which would probably explain your situation, as I would think that the fan and voltmeter are set up to be on when the key is in the "On" position or the "Accessory" position. ("On" is electrically the same as "Accessory" except the the ignition line is also hot). The only thing you should have while cranking is ignition (the headlight circuit does not go through the switch, so you should also have lights while cranking).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's what I really like about this forum. Ask and ye shall recieve. Thanks for the info Gene! I'm going to go trace my gauge feed right now. And just to be sure, I'll trouble shoot the things I know they hurried on one more time. When I went to pick the car up the wiper motor had not been properly wired (eventhough I provided really awesome TC diagrams) and there were some loose connections at the new harness box. I checked those connections once, but another go over isn't a big deal compared to an electrical fire :eek: . I bet you nailed it though. Many thanks.
 

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An easy test for the gauge wiring would be to see if it shows voltage when the key is in the accessory position. If it does, then it is wired to an accessory circuit. If you really want it to show voltage while cranking, then it needs to be wired to the ignition circuit. I'm not sure about 67's, but on 68's there is a terminal on the fuse block labeled "IGN" (ignition) that would work.
I believe the thinking behind having everything disconnected during cranking, though, is to allow the battery capacity to be dedicated to cranking the starter and firing the plugs. While a meter connection would only create a small, neglegible draw, I would leave the fan as is...turning it off during cranking is a good thing.
 
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