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Discussion Starter #1
I have installed the MADD Eectrical headlamp relay kit, this kit utilizes relays for both the high and low beams, eliminating power going all the way from the battery to the dash switch. Two relays mounted by the horn relay now carry all the power to the headlamps resulting in much brighter lights, and it also helped the dash lights, due to less draw on the system.

Taillamps are the LED kit from Technostalgia. Great kit, much brighter and the lights come on much quicker, both brake and tail lights.

One piece of info, the kit does not mention, you will need to change out the turn signal flasher that is located up in the dash next to the ash tray. The LED lights do not draw enough current to flash the old style flasher. Install a EL12 from your local parts store for $8, the electronic flasher does the trick.

Headlamps and brake / taillamps are much brighter and safer. Next I may upgrade the headlamps to the newer style bulbs, and do away with the sealed beams all together.

Tom
 

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Where did you get your kit, and how much did it cost? Did it include everything you needed (except the flasher you mentioned), or did you have to buy more stuff?

Sounds like a very worthwhile upgrade...
 

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Cecil the MAD kit was a complete kit purchased directly from them. The kit came with more than enough to install it plus great instructions. They can be reached at 579-539-7128 or at http://www.madelectrical.com/

The LED taillights are from Technostalgia, the kit has everything needed but the flasher. The kit instructions are a little misleading but I got through it. And it would have saved a lot of time and headaches if they had mentioned the flasher problem. They can be reached at 812-265-0062
http://www.cool-leds.com/pages/737509/index.htm
but I ordered it from Harmons which took three weeks to recieve, I think that they (Harmons) had to wait for the vendor to build it.

Overall.... The difference is amazing!
 

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This does sound like a worthwhile upgrade. Are there any problems using T-3 bulbs. What I mean is will this setup burn them out being as they will be getting a full dose of current, and T-3's being so old? I didn't read the whole article yet, but can you tell me if there are any other things to look out for that might cause an existing wire harness or something else to burn up. Wouldn't want that to happen. Thanks for any info you can give. I will go back and read the whole thing later. Joe
 

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Joe-

If you can wait, in not too long I will be unveiling a website article dealing with the truth about brighter headlamps and upgrades. Lots of stuff the "other guys" don't (or don't want to tell you)...it will address many of your questions.
 

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Originally posted by Coppertop:
Joe-

If you can wait, in not too long I will be unveiling a website article dealing with the truth about brighter headlamps and upgrades. Lots of stuff the "other guys" don't (or don't want to tell you)...it will address many of your questions.
How's the family doing Joe?
 

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http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

I'm in the wrong business. I installed two relays, just like this one, into my headlight system for under $10. But people are gonna spend $50 on two of these "relay kits" to get the exact same results.


Oh the genius of marketing. :rolleyes:

Here's a single relay kit for $8, which I found after 30 seconds of searching: http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=339&BQ=jcw2

And a further 5 minutes of searching gets the same thing for just a little more than $2: http://boardrelays.com/ $1.70 for the relay, and .83 for the prewired socket. Of course, there's a $25 minimum order, so you have to order 10 to get 'em. I just ordered 10 of 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Joe, and anyone else interested in the relay kit for the headlamps. Yes, I spent more than $10. But I felt it was well worth it. I got lots of good correct wiring, all the connectors, heat shrink tubing. I realize that these items do not bring the value of the kit to the price paid, but all the documents are priceless. MAD includes two booklets with each order. One is the instructions, and the other is a complete understanding of how automotive electrical systems work, how they should work and how they can work. I found the kit a great investment to operating my 84,000 mileage chevy better, in the dark. And yes... I bought it from the little old man that bought it new, and it only had 53,000 on it when I drove it from his garage. As far as hurting the T3 bulbs. My car still has all the originals, and they not only are still working, but are now getting a true 14 volts to them.
 

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And a further 5 minutes of searching gets the same thing for just a little more than $2: http://boardrelays.com/ $1.70 for the relay, and .83 for the prewired socket. Of course, there's a $25 minimum order, so you have to order 10 to get 'em. I just ordered 10 of 'em.
Anybody want to split an order? I've already got my relays, but I would like to have a few of the pre wired sockets. Those interlocking sockets looked pretty trick too.
 

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Tell you guys something I found out;
An old 24 volt-AC contactor from a house A/C unit or a 24 volt-AC fan relay from a house furnace works on 12 volt DC current.

We through away old A/C units with good 30 amp-AC relays and contactors still in them so I snagged a couple and connected the up to a battery out in the garage and left them energized for a week or so and they worked fine and didn't get hot.
 

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How many amps does that AC relay pull to close the contact? If its 30amps at 120V, seems like it would be pretty beefy.

I'm sure they would be easier to get, but how much do they usually run new?
 

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Gee, if they're rated at 30A @ 24v, does that mean they'll handle 60A @ 12V??

Or is the 30A for 120V?
 

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The 30 amps is on the 120 volt contactor side of the relay, not the 24 volt coil. So does that kick it up to 300 amps at 12? I don't think so.

Amps are amps. It's the loads that pull less current at higher voltages, or more current at lower voltages.

For example, there are three phase motors that can run on either 240 or 480 volts. If you have 480 for it, the motor gives the same performance with half the current draw, so you can use smaller wires to run it.

12 gauge wire is good for around 20 amps at any voltage. I'd say contactors are about the same.

And tas, I apologize for coming across like a jerk the way I did. I didn't mean to imply that you were an idiot for paying their price. I'm sure that it's worth it for you and I'm very glad that you're happy with it.

It's not worth it for me because I don't need their booklets and all that. I wired my entire car, bumper to bumper, roof to floor, for a little over $100. 5 years now with no troubles.

Sorry if I came across the wrong way.
 
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