Ball joints were riveted at the factory
Since the odds of the OP riveting his new upper ball joints to his control arms are pretty slim, this was pretty a pretty useless response.
Since Dale's link has the upper & lower spindle specs, I'll chime in on the bushings, etc.
New upper balls joints should come with Grade 8 bolts. I read somewhere to torque them to 25lbs, but that didn't feel like enough to me. I just tightened them until they felt "secure", without over doing it. If the bolts they came with them aren't Grade 8, toss them out & get some quality ones from the hardware store.
The upper control arm bolts that mount to the frame should be 55lbs.
If your upper control arm bushings still have the cross shafts with bolts on the ends, you should torque them to 45lbs. A bunch of us have had issues with these bolts loosening up on their own. Be sure to use thread locker.
If you have the new style a arm cross shafts with the large nuts on them, you'll have to wait for someone else to chime in on the specs. I think it's 80lbs, but I'm not positive.
The front lower control arm bolts are 80lbs.
All the rear control arm bushing bolts are 80lbs.
Remember that all control arm bushing bolts, front & rear, should be torqued with the full weight of the car on the ground. Before tightening them, I like to bounce the suspension up & down a few times to make sure that there is no binding.
