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My Malibu had a shrunken headliner that had to go. It had pulled the seams apart!
After getting all the hardware off (shoulder belt bolts, spring clips, mirror, etc.) I was faced with the crappy failing, falling insulator that was originally installed. Not to mention all the surface rust that 40+ years can generate. The original fiber matting that was partially glued virtually fell apart as I tried to remove it.





I made up a special tool using a couple 90 degree angle picks and a small clamp along with some rope to pull down on the cross bar that is welded to the perimeter framework.







This made it easier to work pieces of the old fiber crap out of the braces. I finally got most all of it out and used an air gun to blast the rest out of the nooks & crannies.
I used a wire brush to knock down the worst of the surface rust, then applied a couple of coats of silver POR-15.
After that thoroughly cured, I got some "reflectix" insulation. It is HD bubble sheet with silver mylar on each side.



It's pretty close to exactly the same thickness as the fiber mat that GM used. This was cut to size in two pieces. One for the front width and another for the rear section.
I worked the reflectix between the brace and the roof sheet-metal and tucked it into the front sides and rear perimeter framework and under the center bar that holds the dome-light.
To assure that it does not droop down, I slit a section about 15 inches across the center of the open space and then opened it up and sprayed 3M 90 super contact adhesive into the slot.



This covers the ceiling metal and the top of the reflectix so that after about a 5 min. setup, it adheres tightly.
This makes for a very clean solution to replacing that nasty fiber mat with something that should never deteriorate.



I'm sure glad that nasty job is finally done!! Putting the new headliner in will be a pleasure by comparison.

Dan
 

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oh man I need to do this!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hopefully the roof isn't too wavy after that process. Looks good!
There is NO effect on the roof. The pull in the center of the brace moves only the brace down and away from the roof underside. The brace is only attached at the side frame perimeter. Pulling it down a bit (no more than about a half inch) allows you to get the old insulation out completely, allows you to paint the whole underside and install the new Reflectix material back in the same way the original insulation was installed.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Dan, excellent job on the pic's and commentary. I have that project coming up very shortly and have bought the supplies to do it. It's always very helpful to see what it will look like before you get there, thanks very much!

It was recommended to me to use closed cell foam with foil on only one side because condensation will build up between the roof and insulation, which is the reason the original stuff breaks down. The POR-15 will keep the roof from rusting or the foil from chemically reacting with the metal roof but, the condensation will run down to the low point and pool there and start to rust. This made sense to me and was told to me by an oldtimer that had done upholstery his whole life. Rule of thumb is the foil side goes towards the passenger compartment to hold the heat in and moisture out, same as on the floor. The foil on both sides is to keep heat out of the passenger compartment say from the engine compartment or exhaust. Just sharing something I was told.
 

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Good job Dan! Couple of questions - How did you get the remnants of the glue used to hold the installation in off the roof (I've been scraping with a putty knife but only about %60 has come off). And secondarily, has anyone used fatmat or dynamat on the as an insulator on the roof? I'm contemplating this aproach.

Thx -JR
 
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