[D16136]

Hey guys, it has been awhile since I discussed my project. I have a 1971 Chevelle Malibu that I purchase a year and a half or so ago. The first thing I did was replace manifold, carb, and got it running well. Then last winter I ripped apart all the front suspension and brakes. I painted all control arms, replaced bushing, painted as much of the frame (front to back) as I could get to with por15, and put steel inner fenders in. I also put in new springs and shocks front and back. I scrapped, cleaned, degreased and por15 virtually the entire floor pan under the car (dirty nasty job and spent hours). This summer I enjoyed it a bit, but not as much as I hoped with everything going on. BUT I did build a 32 x 24 fully insulated heated/cooled detached garage. Built it on my own.

So here we are at another winter and I plan to do some work to it. First I want to pull the drive shaft to replace u-joints and try to fix my speedometer. I pulled the cable and spun it and the speedometer moved. I think my clip broke or something in the tail shaft. I have never done this, but seems fairly straight forward. The next thing is to pull upper and lower rear control arms and have them boxed and new bushings. I hope this is not terrible, but looks like a lot of work. Any tips or threads you think document this well?

Once The rear suspension is all good I plan to start addressing some rust that is fairly minor. First lower doors have some rust on outside corners on the skin. The paint is bubbled in a few spots but I bet once grinding there will be some small holes. Do you guys recommend cutting out metal and repairing minor rust holes in door skins or just replace the whole skin? I know pictures may help, so I will snap some later.

My inner rockers have holes in several places. Worst is driver side. I don't believe the outer rockers have much rust at all, but need to look again. Also, where the floor pan meets the inner rocker there is some rust with a small holes about the size of a quarter. The rest of the floor pan looks solid and seems to only be affected at the edges where the inner rocker and floor meets. The floor braces are very solid except a coupe ends where they rusted out with the inner rocker. I may just have this done by a body shop, but I have considered trying to do it myself. If outer rockers are not needed replaced, is it acceptable to cut out bad portions of the inner rocker and patch in new? Then cut out the bad portion of the floor pan where it meets the inner and weld in new? Newbie job or just pay for it? Rest of the car is solid and rust free.

Pictures to come.

 

[Georgia69]

Man I sure do like your garage! On the rear control arms - new tubular arms from someone like UMI aren't all that expensive. Worth looking at.

 

[D16136]

Man I sure do like your garage! On the rear control arms - new tubular arms from someone like UMI aren't all that expensive. Worth looking at.

Thanks man! I kept all stock in the front. Do you see any issue keeping stock in front and using the new tubular arms in the rear?

 

[blm]

Nice work on the Chevelle and the garage. For the speedometer take a look at your driven gear which is what your cable should slip into at the transmission. Need to get the correct tooth count which is determined by tire size and rear ended ratio. Might want to pull inner cable out and relube while you are at it. Both are easy jobs.

 

[idahochevelle]

i installed massive rear adjustable control arms they fit great and look great. i paid about 450 for all of them and the frame stiffening brackets. Rust yes if you have the capabilities i would cut the rusty area and weld in good metal. the shop looks awesome i was going to build one on my old property but i moved.

 

[72soft-top]

Great garage.
For the rear suspension, it's not more difficult that what you've already accomplished on the front control arms. They do sell a lower control arm boxing kit if you decide to add a rear factory sway bar. As for the rust repair, I think with some photos of what going on after you start rust issues will help everyone advise on the best repair solution (really hard to provide guidance without pics?).

 

[LeoP]

JMHO on the rear suspension, unless you've got a lift(with that garage, you probably do) I would take apart one side of the rear at a time, Good luck with your car!!

 

[Raineman]

Love that color. On the rear control arms, start soaking the bolts and bushings with something like PBblaster. Drench it, multiple times. I had to cut my uppers out of the frame and those bolts are HARD to cut through. The bolts had seized inside the bushing collar.

 

[GuysMonteSS]

Looks like a nice car and it sounds like you are doing a great job on it.
I have gone both ways with the rear control arms.You can count on having to replace the bushings if yours are still all original,and that is a PITA !! That was what I first did with mine and boxed them in at the same time.
Then after several years I replaced them with ones from UMI ,the uppers being adjustable.This way you can adjust the pinion angle if needed.
And they will work fine with your stock front end components.
Guy

 

[hydro462]

For the rear end. I used the Spohn Del Sphere adjustable arms with two rubber bushings on the top rear end. They made a very big difference in overall handling and ride. Having a four wheel alignment this makes such a big difference on these cars.. What surprised me was how my car pulls out, no longer spinning the tires like crazy. I don't drag race and prefer the standard gear set because they allow the car to turn smoothly while having both rear wheels propelling the car.. I never got around to installing air bags or a rear sway bar..

Make sure you get the Del sphere and not the other regular spherical bushings, these allow dirt to get inside and don't last very long on the street because they are suited for racing...

Lowers Chevelle Rear Lower Control Arms | A-Body Rear Lower Control Arms |225 (spohn.net)

Uppers Chevelle Rear Upper Control Arms | A-Body Rear Upper Control Arms |627 (spohn.net)

 

[D16136]

Thank you all for the responses! First, pictures of the doors. Very minor and some light rust on inner lip. I think repairing this is better than a new skin, correct? First three are driver side and second three are passenger.

 

[D16136]

Now for worst part of the car, both side inner rockers. on both sides there is also a bad spot in each outer rocker and maybe some rust on inside of outer rockers. I have not had the rocker trim off to see what it looks like behind them. Should probably do that. Thoughts? Complete replacement of inner/outers? Any idea what I should expect to pay in labor if I took it to a shop? I have a local body shop that does classic cars from minor to full frame off restorations. They have been around for several decades, but not sure on pricing. Hard to get good pictures..... I really hope to get a lift sometime, I build garage with 10 ft ceilings in hopes of doing a smaller two post lift sometime.

 

[D16136]

For some more background, car was restored/painted in 1994 and untouched since. Original owner died in early 2000 and car sat until his widow sold it off to me. I am second documented owner of the car. The restoration included trunk pan, one fender, vinyl top and both quarters. Paint and top still in surprisingly good shape for being 25 years old. I think the receipt from the restoration was around 10k in 1994. The widow informed me that the shop that did the restoration is still in business today and known for good work. Overall, things look pretty good to me. The engine was also rebuilt in late 90's but to stock. Needs rebuild or a crate motor at some point if I want more hp out of it.

 

[72soft-top]

Why not try to do complete the rust repairs yourself? You have the garage. If you have the skills to work on the suspension, get yourself a compressor and welder and go for it. If you have the time, I think you will save a lot of money and really enjoy doing it yourself.

 

[D16136]

Why not try to do complete the rust repairs yourself? You have the garage. If you have the skills to work on the suspension, get yourself a compressor and welder and go for it. If you have the time, I think you will save a lot of money and really enjoy doing it yourself.

Good point, I have been considering it. If anyone knows of a thread that details rocker removal and install, please let me know. Metal work would be new to me. I have done some welding, but more than a decade ago. I guess you cant make it any worse when it is already rusted. Based on what you see do you think I could cut otu bad portions of outer and repair and then weld in new inners and brace ends? OR do a full outer replacement on both sides. Overall outers seems solid except for 6-8 inches on each side. Inners are pretty toast.

 

[72soft-top]

I think you need to tear into it to get a full evaluation. But you will probably be better off replacing as much as possible and limiting patches.

 

[Capt Casey]

No skins needed on doors that is first year Body school stuff so sand prep and fill...or weld some holes if needed. They are shallow and small but you will chase the rust...That's the issue...it once you strip the doors and see more under the paint..so sand until you don't see rust...have to paint anyway right?

The other work if you are not confident Look for someone close to you on the site that may be able to help you through it... Most is cut to good metal and prep for future rust and then weld in the new metal..Rockers come in one piece correct me if i am wrong. but use what you need to use and ask for the help.

 

[Shane6772]

No skins needed on doors that is first year Body school stuff so sand prep and fill...or weld some holes if needed. They are shallow and small but you will chase the rust...That's the issue...it once you strip the doors and see more under the paint..so sand until you don't see rust...have to paint anyway right?

The other work if you are not confident Look for someone close to you on the site that may be able to help you through it... Most is cut to good metal and prep for future rust and then weld in the new metal..Rockers come in one piece correct me if i am wrong. but use what you need to use and ask for the help.

These guys are good. Get a wire feed welder. You have welded B4. Thin metal heat control. U will blow threw at first don’t panic. On and off with the hand lever. Thin metal heats up fast. I am ex diver in GoM. Not a welder. Became one over time and rust repair on 67. 4x4 sheet 1/8” steel. Use cardboard as your forms. I have plasma cutter for steel. Grinder / buffer a requirement
You will get good at it. Practice practice. U tube can help. You have to pull the trigger. U tube videos can’t. These guys r right it’s a good time doing it yourself. Specially in your new man cave.
little for toddies. Little music. Hog heaven
Shane - brookshire Texas
Enjoy.