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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, shopping for lift bars for my 70 chevelle, and considering either the UMI or Lakewood units. Now I see for both that they look very similar, and seem to come with the same mounting hardware, bushings, etc... Any reason to go with one over the other? The lakewood is about $70 less price wise on summit. Here are link to both, thanks!

Lakewood
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-21312/

UMI
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-4022-B/
 

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Where are the forum police This post directly refers to suspension
Yes but its a performance suspension ! Setting it up properly is the key to getting a Hot Rod to perform as it should.

Maybe you are just joking around or something ?????
 

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UMI are true bolt on style. Others require you to check pinion angle, then drill out factory mounts. I had lift bars prior, Didn't seem to really help, at least not at the ride height I had. Car now sits lower, so may try them again. If so, will go with the UMI bolt on style.
Thank you for posting this and this is correct. The UMI lift bars in the link above are a 100% bolt on set, no drilling, welding or cutting (Although constant drag racing, welding is highly recommended).

In comparision to the Lakewood style our lift bars offer Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings while Lakewood is using a solid nylon type bushing. The Lakewood bars will most likely be harsh and noisy on the street...that's if you are using these on a street car. The Jeg's is a similar design using polyurethane bushings and angled sway bar holes, they are weld in only. The UMI lift bars feature two settings as well, you can lower the control arm 2" or 3" and still use a factory style sway bar if you choice too.

I posted two links below, the first link is direct to our site which will offer more installation pictures than Summit's site. The second link shows a customers car on the UMI lift bars, post #9.

www.umiperformance.com/4022

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340864&highlight=umi

If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
 

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Ryan, I actually had used your relocation brackets. Had them on the lower hole (3"?). But, between the raised ride height/stiff spring rate of the springs I had in there and incorrect shock rate, rear suspension of my car was rock hard and I do think in restropect, everything in there was fighting for position. Have since went to a lower rate (but firm) spring, lowered the ride height a good 1.5", and installed a much more functional set of drag oriented shocks. Bottum line, I will be placing an order for Relocate brackets (and a DS safety hoop) within the next week with UMI. Thanks for the support and tech you provide.
 

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Thank you for posting this and this is correct. The UMI lift bars in the link above are a 100% bolt on set, no drilling, welding or cutting (Although constant drag racing, welding is highly recommended).

In comparision to the Lakewood style our lift bars offer Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings while Lakewood is using a solid nylon type bushing. The Lakewood bars will most likely be harsh and noisy on the street...that's if you are using these on a street car. The Jeg's is a similar design using polyurethane bushings and angled sway bar holes, they are weld in only. The UMI lift bars feature two settings as well, you can lower the control arm 2" or 3" and still use a factory style sway bar if you choice too.

I posted two links below, the first link is direct to our site which will offer more installation pictures than Summit's site. The second link shows a customers car on the UMI lift bars, post #9.

www.umiperformance.com/4022

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340864&highlight=umi

If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
Interesting...my Jegs bars bolted in perfectly, and the sway bar sits in the factory position. And, they work excellent.
 

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I have the UMI lower control arms and relocation brackets, as well as UMI adjustable uppers. Car works real well at the track, and I can't tell any difference in the ride quality on the street from stock. 60' times are consistently low 1.60's, with a best of 1.59 so far, using M/T ET Drag slicks, 26X10.5X15.
 

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I think the no hop bars (brackets) are better for the Chevelle. My car sixty foots 1.53-1.55 on BFG drag radials with a pump gas 502.
 

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The Jeg's is a similar design using polyurethane bushings and angled sway bar holes, they are weld in only.
Interesting...my Jegs bars bolted in perfectly, and the sway bar sits in the factory position. And, they work excellent.
Vinny is correct. The Jegs lift bars are bolt-in (not weld-in) but installation does require holes to be drilled into the control arm brackets that are on the axle tubes. The reason why the UMI lift bars don't require holes to be drilled is due to the fact that they have brackets that not only bolt to the existing holes in the axle tube control arm brackets, but they also bolt into the shock absorber bracket holes, so that's what anchors them into place. Therefore, no extra anchor holes need to be drilled. So technically, both the Jegs bars and the UMI bars are bolt-in. But the Jegs require drilling of holes, and the UMI bars do not.
 

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Have run a best 60' of 1.56 with UMI lift bars and slicks,not fantastic,but that is with a 4200lb. stick shift Elky,with an otherwise stock suspension.They do bolt in nicely,and are a very well made and nice appearing American made product.:hurray:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got it, that makes a lot of sense guys! Thanks a ton for all the feedback and info. I am looking at ways to improve traction with the new motor and setup. Buying some drag radials here soon (perks of working for a tire shop, I can order directly from BFG), and looking at ways to improve the traction. Come time for the WCCG, I would like to have it setup the way I want.

Sounds like the jegs or UMI bars are the best choices, just have to decide if I want to drill or not. No drilling is appealing, more things to go wrong and don't want to mess with the housing, but its not like its stock or numbers matching either.
 

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I am looking at ways to improve traction with the new motor and setup. Buying some drag radials here soon (perks of working for a tire shop, I can order directly from BFG),.
If you want traction, don't go with the BFG tires. Use the Mickey Thompson drag radfials (called their "ET Street Radial"). You can also use the Hoosier drag radials, but they will likely give you even less mileage than the M/T will. But both are D.O.T. tires, and will grip better than the BFG.
 

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I do see where the Jeg's are bolt on too, sorry my mistake. But yes you do have to drill a hole to mount them.

We make a Fox body Mustang lift bar like the Jeg's one, very similar in design and installation. You can drill holes and bolt them in place. However we have issues with noise on the street and the bolts elongating the holes drilled so we recommend welding them. Is anyone having this trouble with the Jeg's bars?
 

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I can attest to the quaility of the UMI Lower control arms. I don't have the lift brackets yet but do have the adjustable upper and boxed lower control arms. They are very nicely made and of very good quality. Now if I can just find the time to install them everything will be good.
 

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Daniel, why do you think you need lift bars? What else has been done to the rear suspension? Just curious....;)
 
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