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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I have turbo 400 transmission that shifts way too early in drive. By 20-25 mph its already in third gear.the shifts are almost undetectable ,but there. However if shifted manually the shifts are very hard, which is expected due to the shift kit. I have tried to adjust the vac. modulator, which does nothing. The modulator is new. The motor makes about 10-12 inches of vac, big cam. I have removed the governor and inspected the plastic gear and checked the valve for sticking and movement. What else am i missing ? Is there any damage being done to the trans. by driving it this way. Sorry for the long winded post. Just trying to give as much info. as possible. Thanks in advance.
 

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Mine was doing that too and it did help move the shift points up when I adjusted the modulator as far as it would go. I also have a governor kit to put in and that should raise the shift points more as well. I actually need another convertor to give it more stall - that will help this early shift issue and make it idle in traffic a lot better, besides hitting the tires harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine was doing that too and it did help move the shift points up when I adjusted the modulator as far as it would go. I also have a governor kit to put in and that should raise the shift points more as well. I actually need another convertor to give it more stall - that will help this early shift issue and make it idle in traffic a lot better, besides hitting the tires harder.
Thanks, I will try the " all the way in adjustment ". Can you go too far with it ? I allready have a 3500 stall speed convertor.
 

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You said you checked the governor.
Did the center piston/pin move correctly?
The one inside the drive gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You said you checked the governor.
Did the center piston/pin move correctly?
The one inside the drive gear.
Not sure i follow you, Hold by plastic gear vertically and squeeze " weights " valve in governor body should rise and fall easily. right?
 

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If you change the rear gear ratio to a lower (higher numerically) one that will make the trans shift too soon. You''l have to change the governor springs and/or grind the weights to lighten. The governor is still driven at the same engine speed as before so a lower rear gear will make it shift at a lower wheel speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you change the rear gear ratio to a lower (higher numerically) one that will make the trans shift too soon. You''l have to change the governor springs and/or grind the weights to lighten. The governor is still driven at the same engine speed as before so a lower rear gear will make it shift at a lower wheel speed.
Thinking about this, seems to me you would want to slow down the rate of speed of the weights, hence heavier springs and weights. In any case ,Where would one obtain these parts in kit form. Thanks.
 

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Jake's a busy boy these days... ;)

I've used the B&M kit before...pretty simple, straight forward modification but may take a couple R&R attempts before you get it just right.
An adjustable mod valve has a very limited range of adjustment. You'll need the spring/weight kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jake's a busy boy these days... ;)

I've used the B&M kit before...pretty simple, straight forward modification but may take a couple R&R attempts before you get it just right.
An adjustable mod valve has a very limited range of adjustment. You'll need the spring/weight kit.
Thanks Bill, love the 69.:thumbsup:
 

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Thanks Bill, love the 69.:thumbsup:
Enjoy it while you can Duane :D...soon to return to it's original color...white w/black side stripe.
I hate yellow...;)
 
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I'm pretty busy so I don't post as much anymore.

The weights need to be lighter to get later WOT shifts.

They work on centrifugal force. The lighter the weights are, the more rpm it takes to overcome their weight.

I've posted before but the short story is you can use 6d finishing nails to replace the factory pins. Grind the ends off the factory pins, remove them, look at the governor before doing so, disassemble the governor, grind the smaller inner weights. Re-assemble using the 6d nails.
Bend the ends over using a hammer, placing the governor on a hard surface. Don't bend the governor housing...

It will take a few tries. Smaller inner weights have largest effect on WOT, outer weights have the msot effect on part throttle 1-2, however grinding them affects all around.

If you already have a governor with the holes in the outer weights, work only on the inner weights.

The further away from the pin you work, the more effective it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm pretty busy so I don't post as much anymore.

The weights need to be lighter to get later WOT shifts.

They work on centrifugal force. The lighter the weights are, the more rpm it takes to overcome their weight.

I've posted before but the short story is you can use 6d finishing nails to replace the factory pins. Grind the ends off the factory pins, remove them, look at the governor before doing so, disassemble the governor, grind the smaller inner weights. Re-assemble using the 6d nails.
Bend the ends over using a hammer, placing the governor on a hard surface. Don't bend the governor housing...

It will take a few tries. Smaller inner weights have largest effect on WOT, outer weights have the msot effect on part throttle 1-2, however grinding them affects all around.

If you already have a governor with the holes in the outer weights, work only on the inner weights.

The further away from the pin you work, the more effective it is.
Thanks for the info Jake. Best part about this mod. is that it requires no expensive parts.
 

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All the 6 penny nails I could find were too short. I ended up using the centers out of some long pop rivets.
 
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I just bought a box of 5000 of the correct nails...

I've never had any that were too short. Occasionally I've gotten some that were slightly too big in diameter.
 
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