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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are tubular rear control arms worth the upgrade? Looking at the UMI's. Looking for another couple smaller winter projects and was thinking rear control arms and maybe new shocks all the way around.


Don't have the budget to do new front tubulars this year., already spent it on other goodies for the car :)
 

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I recently installed the UMI lower trailing arms with the roto-joints. The rear differential feels much more 'connected' and it is definitely smoother. I had some tubular units prior to that with aluminum bushings, but the UMI units are much better. I think it is a worthwhile upgrade.
 

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Yeah, they are worth it. I have UMI, they are a nice piece. The stock ones are thin sheetmetal. Both of my original lowers were actually cracked.
 

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thanks all.I would think that would be a pretty easy project as well?
As mentioned a few times above they def. have advantages.

Anytime you replace a factory component that has rubber bushings with a more rigid bushing you will experience upgraded handling.:thumbsup:

The rear controls arms are about the easiest swap on the car.

Craig
 

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What Craig said for sure. Very easy.. And a definite ride improvement. I used UMI pieces with no issues. Plenty of great support... I went with new springs (moog) and shocks also. I used to have.... air shocks. talk about a ride improvement!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As mentioned a few times above they def. have advantages.

Anytime you replace a factory component that has rubber bushings with a more rigid bushing you will experience upgraded handling.:thumbsup:

The rear controls arms are about the easiest swap on the car.

Craig

Soon as Uncle Sam kicks me my tax refund I will call and get a set Craig. Do I need to change the bushings on the rear for the uppers? I would think that is about impossible while it is under the car? Mine has basically new rubber ones in it now.


Pat
 

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Soon as Uncle Sam kicks me my tax refund I will call and get a set Craig. Do I need to change the bushings on the rear for the uppers? I would think that is about impossible while it is under the car? Mine has basically new rubber ones in it now.


Pat
It's not necessary to change the rear housing bushing, Just make sure it's in good shape.

Craig
 

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Changing the rear bushing is not difficult with the rear end out, a bit more challenging with it in the car. Like Craig said, just look to see what shape yours in is.
 

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I changed my housing bushings with the rear end installed. It was a challenge.
I have a lot of UMI components on my car. But for the rear control arms I went with Currie Enterprises "currectrac" control arms. They have the Johnny Joint which I believe is a more advanced joint. Check them out.
 

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The Johnny Joint is just like the Roto-Joint from UMI. The UMI rear uppers with the Roto-Joint are also about $70 less than the Currie model
 
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The Johnny Joint is just like the Roto-Joint from UMI.
Ok I am only going off memory here but the Roto Joint only rotates on one axis. The Johnny Joint rotates on two planes. So if my memory is correct they are not the same. If by the same you mean they are rotating joints then that is true however IMHO the Johnny Joint is more advanced.
 

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The Roto-Joint has 28 degrees of motion side to side (or left to right), as well as the standard up/down motion.
 

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The Roto-Joint has 28 degrees of motion side to side (or left to right), as well as the standard up/down motion.
Ok my mistake. As I said I was just going off memory. So was the Roto Joint always made like this or has it been improved?
 

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You would have to check with UMI on that. The UMI units are also adjustable and rebuildable - I don't know about the Johnny Joints.
 

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Are tubular rear control arms worth the upgrade? Looking at the UMI's. Looking for another couple smaller winter projects and was thinking rear control arms and maybe new shocks all the way around.
Don't have the budget to do new front tubulars this year., already spent it on other goodies for the car :)
Pat I have bought all my car's new suspension parts from UMI Perf ;

1. UMI Perf GM 64 - 67 GM A Body Rear Lower Boxed / Adj Upper Control Arms # 402126
2. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A Body Solid Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit # 403534
Car launches straight as a arrow and no wheel hop !
3. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Tubular Upper & Lower Front A-Arm Kit # 403133
4. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Viking Front Coil Over, Dbl Adj Shocks # A205-550T
5. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Viking Rear Dbl Adj Shocks # B220
6. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Tie Rod Adjusters # 2103

Also I added the Rear Frame Cross Brackets.

I have noted the difference in ride quality/handling , went to firm and stable,
that I have acquired with the great parts from UMI Perf I put on
from the previous original type Springs and Shocks ride which was like riding on a logging road,
so it has been a night to day type change in ride and handling response .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pat I have bought all my car's new suspension parts from UMI Perf ;

1. UMI Perf GM 64 - 67 GM A Body Rear Lower Boxed / Adj Upper Control Arms # 402126
2. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A Body Solid Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit # 403534
Car launches straight as a arrow and no wheel hop !
3. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Tubular Upper & Lower Front A-Arm Kit # 403133
4. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Viking Front Coil Over, Dbl Adj Shocks # A205-550T
5. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Viking Rear Dbl Adj Shocks # B220
6. UMI Perf 64-72 GM A-Body Tie Rod Adjusters # 2103

Also I added the Rear Frame Cross Brackets.

I have noted the difference in ride quality/handling , went to firm and stable,
that I have acquired with the great parts from UMI Perf I put on
from the previous original type Springs and Shocks ride which was like riding on a logging road,
so it has been a night to day type change in ride and handling response .

Hey Greg,


Bet she handles great!!. I have BMR 1" lowering springs but going to suit her up with a bunch of UMI stuff from her on out.
 
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