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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I did some searching and did not come up with an answer to my problem. Here is what I had and have now. Bought 69 Chevelle with ford solinoid for starting. Mounted on right inner fenderwell. Worked great. Never a problem. NOW. I moved battery to trunk with disconnect switch. Left the wires on the ford solinoid and in the same location. The only thing that changed was the length of the positive cable to the ford solinoid and the disconnect switch in the back. Battery - is grounded to the frame below battery and is also grounded to the body. Up front there are 2 small braided ground body to frame straps. 1 - battery cable and an 1-1/2" braided ground strap from motor to frame. The battery charging wire from right radiator support is on the ford solinoid + side. Cables are #1s. I think the charge wire has to go back to the battery + side for switch to shut the motor down. This wire is still on the f-solinoid. The problem is now the car will not start. Acts like battery is low. When charger is connected to the battery. It acts the same way. I then put charger on the + side of f-solinoid and the - on the 1 1/2 ground to motor strap. Car will start right up. What would cause this? Do you think moving the f-solinoid to the trunk would fix this problem? Sorry for the long post. No way around it. Ron
 

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Don't see where you have a frame to block ground wire. Try at least a #4 wire between the two. Connections should be clean and tight. One of the chain type auto parts stores should have a cable maybe 18 to 24 inches with eyelets on both sides.
*EDIT*
Reread it again and see your ground line. Guess would still be a poor ground connection which is why your charger to solenoid trick works.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
John_Muha I disconnected battery to frame ground cable. Cleaned inside and outside of frame to bare matal, where cable is grounded. Still the same. I checked all my ground cables and straps from battery with tester. They all show 12.4 volts. Any thoughts on moving f-solinoid to trunk next to disconnect switch?
Ron
 

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Haven't heard of anyone having to do that. Where did you connect the line from the alternator and harness line to? Is it tied to the input side of the Ford relay along with the cable from the battery? If so, What do you read on the input side of the Ford relay to the block (probe on block)ground as someone turns the key?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The alternator (external regulator) is connected to a replacement harness in it's original form. The wire that comes from the right side of the radiator support which should go to a front mounted battery + side. That wire is hooked to the f-solinoid input terminal.
These are the wires hooked to the f-solinoid.
+ side 1 ea.
1 battery cable
2 wire from radiator support-right side
3 MSD 6AL hot wire-should go to starter
4 I think a purple wire from bulk head plug and connects to the fuse plug.

On the S termanal a black wire that goes to the starter solinoid with battery cable. which comes from the output side of f-solinoid.
There is a groung wire coming from the bottom of f-solinoid mounting bracket to the frame.
I will check for a reading in the morning on the input side of f-solinoid to motor while cranking.
Thanks
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tested the f-solinoid from input to motor. Battery is 12.4 Without key on was 12.4 at motor. Turned key to start at first it started with 12.4 tried again this time dropped to 9.4 tried again 8.8 again 8.8 down to 8.4 then starter stayed engaged. Used disconnect switch to disengage starter. Battery is know 12.3 and at the f-solinoid is 12.3 This all took place in a 2 minuite period
Maybe it could be the starter solinoid.
 

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What size is the battery cable from the battery to the disconnect, to the f-solenoid? Not sure if you have a significant cable from the engine to the frame.

Should have at least 2 gauge, 1 ga or 0(ot)ga would be better. Both from the battery + to the f-solenoid and from the battery - to the frame and up front from the frame to the engine.
 

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Yeah, voltage is way too low to the Ford solenoid. May still be a weak battery or a poor connection on the engine ground. Or as Elree said the line somewhere is to small.
If you repeat the test on measuring things while turnng the key, I think you will see why it's not engaging. This time when you do the test measure the solenoid "S" terminal to ground. It's going to be below 8 volts. That won't pull in the solenoid. The reason is the voltage coming into the Ford solenoid is already too low.
Moving the Ford solenoid back won't change things because the line to solenoid "s" will still be low.
Have you tried to jump the battery with another car? Need to have the voltage, on the Ford solenoid, closer to 10 volts as you are turning the key.
*EDIT*
Another thought. Try measuring across the battery as you turn the key and then again across the Ford solenoid input to engine block as you turn the key. They both should be around the same. Looking for a large difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry guys. In my 3rd post. I said there was a purple wire hooked to the input side of f-solinoid going to fuse block and a black wire going from S terminal to starter.
The black and purple wire are the same wire and it comes from the S terminal on f-solinoid and goes to the fuse block. Only wire going to the starter is the starter cable which is a normal size starter cable. All other cables #1. Tried it again. this time S terminal went to a 5.
I read this in a past post.Soder connectors to cables. Took connectors off reworked them. Wire fit good. Put in a vise melted soder inside and stuck the cables in. They are solid. did this to in and out side of disconnect awitch and the one at the input of f-solinoid. During this time i charged the batterty for 20 minuites at a 20 amp rating. Tried it again. battery and solinoid 12.7 9 these dropped to 9.7 to 9.4 on battery and input f- solinoid S terminal between 8.7 and 8.4 Started right up. Charging At battery 900 to 1,000 rpm 12.5 1,300 rpm 13.3 Shut it down. tried again no go S terminal down to 5 volts!!!

The purple wire that goes to the connector that goes to the fuse panel. Which hole is this in? Mine is in the bottom left side facing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry guys. In my 3rd post. I said there was a purple wire hooked to the input side of f-solinoid going to fuse block and a black wire going from S terminal to starter.
The black and purple wire are the same wire and it comes from the S terminal on f-solinoid and goes to the fuse block. Only wire going to the starter is the starter cable which is a normal size starter cable. All other cables #1. Tried it again. this time S terminal went to a 5.
I read this in a past post.Soder connectors to cables. Took connectors off reworked them. Wire fit good. Put in a vise melted soder inside and stuck the cables in. They are solid. did this to in and out side of disconnect awitch and the one at the input of f-solinoid. During this time i charged the batterty for 20 minuites at a 20 amp rating. Tried it again. battery and solinoid 12.7 9 these dropped to 9.7 to 9.4 on battery and input f- solinoid S terminal between 8.7 and 8.4 Started right up. Charging At battery 900 to 1,000 rpm 12.5 1,300 rpm 13.3 Shut it down. tried again no go S terminal down to 5 volts!!!
It might be this. I think the switch starter wire had been removed and replaced for the f-solinoid by past owner. Bought replacement harnesses. A friend switched the new around to look like the old one. Maybe he messed up.
I am not sure which half of the harness the wires need to be changed.
The S terminal purple wire that goes to the connector that goes to the fuse panel. Which hole is this in? Mine is in the bottom left side facing it. Maybe you know which color wire go in the correct holes.
Thanks guys
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think I got the problem fixed. Took off grounding lug from battery ground cable. Sodered it to the cable. Started 4 times with no problem. To late to try again tonight. Will try it again tomorrow.
Thanks guys
Ron
 

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Like John said, bad ground would have been my first thought too. They can be a real bear to find. Stuff that doesn't make sense, like a ground cable bolted to the block that isn't actually grounding the block, can drive you nuts. (or in my case, nuttier) Just had that very problem. Engine wouldn't even turn over until I buffed the new paint off the block where a ground cable from the battery was bolted directly to the block. After the block surface and the cable eye were each wire brushed, the problem was solved. It took forever to find that problem cuz it just didn't make sense. That's typical of a bad ground problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I moved the battery to the front again. Did away with the ford solinoid. Had some other issues. Everything is working ok now. So one more attempt to move the battery to the trunk, with out the ford solinoid. I will start a new post for this.
Thanks guys.
 
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