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Troy Built 66 Chevelle LS3/T56

54K views 243 replies 41 participants last post by  SRU1436 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been waiting quite a while to start this thread. I put the car in the garage to start this project in June.

My build is going to be a LS3 I built my self from scratch, bought a new block,crank, forged connecting rods and pistons, Brian Tooley stage II cam and valve springs. Found a set of brand new take off crate motor heads that I had a Very nice 5 angle vale job and some clean up work of the bowl area.

I'm hoping for 475 hp at the rear wheels.

The motor will be cooled with a Dewit's radiator in their Black Ice epoxy with dual electric fans. I'll also be using Wegner Motorsports black FEAD .

This motor will be backed by a new T56 Magnum. With a Hayes "Muscle Car" clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. And of course a new drive shaft.

The 10 bolt diff will get a posi and 373 gears. I put axles in when I did the Big Brake set up. I know the 10 bolt isn't the best choice, but it's what I have until I find a 66 12 bolt. And I do not want a Ford rear end.

The brake and suspension are all ready done. Bear brakes with SC&C suspension. And Boyd wheels.
But I will be adding Hydra boost and Bear master cylinder.

all of the LS swap components are from Holley/Hooker. The motor mounts, trans cross member, headers and exhaust.

Inside will be getting some new stuff also, Vintage Air, Dakota Digital HDX dash with satellite speedo. Also an complete rewire with American Auto Wire Classic Update harness.

This is the car before I parked it back in June

Chevelle (16)A

The reason I'm just getting to this after parking the car Back in June was a big set back.

The first thing in doing the LS swap was new body bushings. I knew I had some problem bolts but what I got into was a complete trunk floor replacement. This turned out to be a pretty big and time consuming project.

Here a little info on that

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-body-shop/983410-trunk-floor-i-need-some-advise.html

Now that I'm done with the trunk floor except for final paint. I'm back on the swap.

So by the end of the Thanksgiving weekend I hope to have this new engine and trans set in place and be able to begin mocking up headers, radiator and FEAD.

Of course I have to do a pretty big modification to the trans tunnel.

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#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
While I had the trunk floor out and was lifting the body to slide the floor in and out for fitting, I did some fuel line mods.

I bought a factory big block fuel line. this line is 3/8 and the original small block line was 5/16. so for the new fuel injection I needed supply and return lines.

I cut both line down and silver soldered -6 fitting on them, then used Fragola PTFE (teflon) black AN lines to make the connections.

This is the Corvette style filter/regulator with the PTFE lines attached.

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here is where those lines connect to the hard lines. I had to add the bracket to the frame to mount the line to. I cut that piece off of the old truck floor.

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when I first completed the hard line I made up some adapters and pressure tested for leaks.

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Also while I had the trunk floor out I set the new Tank Ink tank in place on some straps so I could make the PTFE lines connecting the tank to the hard lines.
 
#5 ·
Got a lot done today. Pulled the engine back out and installed the flywheel clutch and bell housing then bolted on the T56. Then set it back in on the Holley Mounts and cross member. Everything lined up pretty good.

I also cut the tunnel out based on the patch panel I got from Tin Man Fab.

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Once the trans was in I was able to confirm my Hydraulic clutch line, it looks good.

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I also was able to mock up the Hydra Boost unit. I required some mods because of the adapter plate for the hyd clutch.

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#6 ·
I mentioned in the previous post about the engine fitting pretty good on the Holley mounts. the only issue i had was a net clearance on the passenger side tie rod end at the oil pan. It was a little worse but we had left the Holley motor mount stands loose on the frame and influenced the pass side up and the drivers side down, that helped. When I pull the motor back out I will grind the frame to get another 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance.

DSC_0914

Also got the headers in. I set the intake on, although I'm pretty sure I'm going to upgrade to FAST intake. We set the Spartech FI harness in place to see how it laid out. And installed some of the Wegner Motorsports FEAD. I'm waiting on the power steering pump to be returned from Wegner. I switched from a integral reservoir for a remote reservoir style pump because of adding hydra boost.

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#12 ·
Holley 302-2
Disappointing so see the contact to the tie rod. I have that pan and was planning to swap it in place of my MAST pan. I hoped Holley had it nailed this time around. Thanks for posting the pictures. The tunnel patch panel looks like a nice piece. Did it work out well?
 
#14 ·
Don't be disappointed yet. My engine isn't sitting level, it's low on that side. I've been in conversation with the engineer who developed these parts and I believe the issue will be resolved.

The parts really are great quality. There is also many variables in these fifty year old cars that Holley can't account for.

















i
 
#17 ·
Worked on the rest of the fuel line today. This is from the filter/regulator to the engine.

This is the line that enters the frame and then comes out by the stock fuel pump. I attached -6 fitting to the line.



Here it is leaving the frame and feeding the engine.



 
#21 ·
Got a few thing done this weekend. Completed the fuel lines. The final part was connecting the filter/regulator to the hard line that goes to the engine compartment.





Installed the radiator.



I also got to mock up the power steering/ hydra boost lines and reservoir. The PVC pipe represents the radiator over flow tank.







Also mocked up the relays for the fans and head lights. The final version will be aluminum. Wood is just easier to test and move around their positions. Which I have already done a couple times.

 
#23 ·
Not a lot of progress lately with xmas coming up, My family will be at our house tomorrow.

I did get the radiator hoses figured out.





I also received the banjo lines for the Baer master cylinder to the proportioning valve. These are very cool looking and a bit of frivolous spending. To make the cost even worse I think I will have them coated to match the NICOP brake lines I made.

 
#25 ·
Thank's, the NICOP is user friendly. :wink2:

Having the BAER calipers and rotors already, she stopped pretty good. But it was not all it could be as I needed a adjustable proportioning valve to dial it in. That lead me to the master/prop valve and why not top it off with hydra boost. :grin2:
 
#29 ·
Hey Troy

Nice job.

I've built several 1st Gen Camaros with LS3 and LS7s and am just starting my 1st 66 Chevelle. LS3 with the BTR Stage III cam and a TKO600

Can you tell me how far forward you moved the engine from stock position? I'm planning on 11/16" forward.

I see you used the Holley 302-2 pan. I understand the 302-3 pan has a little more clearance. You should be ok. If not you can always add a motor mount shim plate from Morroso to lift the engine 1/4" on the pass side.

Can you confirm the part# on the Hooker BlackHeart Headers. PART# 70101336-RHKR. Any clearance issues? Good Ground Clearance?


Thanks



btw I see you are thinking about the Fast Intake. My experience is the Fast will not perform as well as the Factory LS3 intake. Maybe BTR has some advice with regards to the intakes.
 
#30 ·
I'm using the Holley forward mounts, that I believe is close to factory location. The difference being the bell housing flange on the LS is shorter so the trans moves forward about 1 3/4 of an inch.

Not sure off hand on the Header part number. Hooker 1 7/8" long tube stainless.
 
#31 ·
I got the intake tube and plate for the filter welded. Also got the relays mounted on a aluminum plate (no more wood).

I hope to start taking it back apart in the next week or two so I can finish up the firewall and trans tunnel.

Also welded in the MAF sensor mount and a bung on the pass side just in front of the throtle body for the valve cover vent.



The wiring will be organised much better on final assembly

 
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