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I've been waiting quite a while to start this thread. I put the car in the garage to start this project in June.

My build is going to be a LS3 I built my self from scratch, bought a new block,crank, forged connecting rods and pistons, Brian Tooley stage II cam and valve springs. Found a set of brand new take off crate motor heads that I had a Very nice 5 angle vale job and some clean up work of the bowl area.

I'm hoping for 475 hp at the rear wheels.

The motor will be cooled with a Dewit's radiator in their Black Ice epoxy with dual electric fans. I'll also be using Wegner Motorsports black FEAD .

This motor will be backed by a new T56 Magnum. With a Hayes "Muscle Car" clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. And of course a new drive shaft.

The 10 bolt diff will get a posi and 373 gears. I put axles in when I did the Big Brake set up. I know the 10 bolt isn't the best choice, but it's what I have until I find a 66 12 bolt. And I do not want a Ford rear end.

The brake and suspension are all ready done. Bear brakes with SC&C suspension. And Boyd wheels.
But I will be adding Hydra boost and Bear master cylinder.

all of the LS swap components are from Holley/Hooker. The motor mounts, trans cross member, headers and exhaust.

Inside will be getting some new stuff also, Vintage Air, Dakota Digital HDX dash with satellite speedo. Also an complete rewire with American Auto Wire Classic Update harness.

This is the car before I parked it back in June

Chevelle (16)A

The reason I'm just getting to this after parking the car Back in June was a big set back.

The first thing in doing the LS swap was new body bushings. I knew I had some problem bolts but what I got into was a complete trunk floor replacement. This turned out to be a pretty big and time consuming project.

Here a little info on that

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-body-shop/983410-trunk-floor-i-need-some-advise.html

Now that I'm done with the trunk floor except for final paint. I'm back on the swap.

So by the end of the Thanksgiving weekend I hope to have this new engine and trans set in place and be able to begin mocking up headers, radiator and FEAD.

Of course I have to do a pretty big modification to the trans tunnel.

IMG_20171121_160239453_HDR
 

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While I had the trunk floor out and was lifting the body to slide the floor in and out for fitting, I did some fuel line mods.

I bought a factory big block fuel line. this line is 3/8 and the original small block line was 5/16. so for the new fuel injection I needed supply and return lines.

I cut both line down and silver soldered -6 fitting on them, then used Fragola PTFE (teflon) black AN lines to make the connections.

This is the Corvette style filter/regulator with the PTFE lines attached.

IMG_20171111_165524116_HDR

here is where those lines connect to the hard lines. I had to add the bracket to the frame to mount the line to. I cut that piece off of the old truck floor.

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when I first completed the hard line I made up some adapters and pressure tested for leaks.

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Also while I had the trunk floor out I set the new Tank Ink tank in place on some straps so I could make the PTFE lines connecting the tank to the hard lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got a lot done today. Pulled the engine back out and installed the flywheel clutch and bell housing then bolted on the T56. Then set it back in on the Holley Mounts and cross member. Everything lined up pretty good.

I also cut the tunnel out based on the patch panel I got from Tin Man Fab.

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Once the trans was in I was able to confirm my Hydraulic clutch line, it looks good.

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I also was able to mock up the Hydra Boost unit. I required some mods because of the adapter plate for the hyd clutch.

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Discussion Starter #6
I mentioned in the previous post about the engine fitting pretty good on the Holley mounts. the only issue i had was a net clearance on the passenger side tie rod end at the oil pan. It was a little worse but we had left the Holley motor mount stands loose on the frame and influenced the pass side up and the drivers side down, that helped. When I pull the motor back out I will grind the frame to get another 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance.

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Also got the headers in. I set the intake on, although I'm pretty sure I'm going to upgrade to FAST intake. We set the Spartech FI harness in place to see how it laid out. And installed some of the Wegner Motorsports FEAD. I'm waiting on the power steering pump to be returned from Wegner. I switched from a integral reservoir for a remote reservoir style pump because of adding hydra boost.

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Holley 302-2
Disappointing so see the contact to the tie rod. I have that pan and was planning to swap it in place of my MAST pan. I hoped Holley had it nailed this time around. Thanks for posting the pictures. The tunnel patch panel looks like a nice piece. Did it work out well?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Disappointing so see the contact to the tie rod. I have that pan and was planning to swap it in place of my MAST pan. I hoped Holley had it nailed this time around. Thanks for posting the pictures. The tunnel patch panel looks like a nice piece. Did it work out well?
Don't be disappointed yet. My engine isn't sitting level, it's low on that side. I've been in conversation with the engineer who developed these parts and I believe the issue will be resolved.

The parts really are great quality. There is also many variables in these fifty year old cars that Holley can't account for.

















i
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ordered my drive shaft from Strange, 3" .083" wall seamless Chrome-Moly tubing. with 1350 joints . ships out a week from today.

My Bear Remaster with adj proportioning valve came in. Nice unit.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Worked on the rest of the fuel line today. This is from the filter/regulator to the engine.

This is the line that enters the frame and then comes out by the stock fuel pump. I attached -6 fitting to the line.



Here it is leaving the frame and feeding the engine.



 

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Discussion Starter #20
Troy are you using the forward biased holley mounts? I have the rear biased mounts and everything clears fine.

Also what's the dimensions for the speartech ecu? Where are you planning on mounting it?
Forward bias mounts.

Planning on mounting the ECU inside more than likely. I'll have to measure it.
 
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