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Discussion Starter #1
The last few times I tried to start my Chevelle, I had some starting problems.

WhenI turn the key, the motor spins over great, but doesn't want to fire.

At first I thought "vapor lock", because it was hot (although I have never had that problem, even when really hot).

Then I noticed that although the motor would spin and the car wouldn't start, as soon as I let go of the key, the engine would fire, using the momentum of the spinning starter motor...

My ignition is modified, and I not longer have a resistor wire to the coil, NOR do I have a wire from teh starter to the coil. BUT it has been working fine for 2 years...

The only two things I can think of would be the actual ignition switch itself (fairly new), or the distributor (an HEI conversion, but using a stock type, external coil).

I am leaning toward the switch, because there is only one wire going tothe coil, so if the wire works to drive the car, it should be working to start the car...

Motor spins over fast, so not a battery problem...
 

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Switch..I assume you have hooked up the HEI B+ wire in place of the old resistor wire or plugged it on the IGN terminal on the fuse block.
If you measure the HEI B+ wire, while cranking the car, you won't have 12 volts in START until you let go of the key.
If the yellow wire is still tied to the solenoid "R" terminal, tie that to HEI B+ along with other wire. Quickest and cheapest way to make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I assume you have hooked up the HEI B+ wire in place of the old resistor wire or plugged it on the IGN terminal on the fuse block
Actually, I have one of Dave Ray's Small Body HEI conversions (Ignition Man...).

It is wired the same as a standard "points" type distributor, except I changed the wire at the bulkhead, removing the resistor wire completely and soldering on a new "twin-lock" terminal and wire to the coil, so that wire still is part of the forward engine harness, but no longer resisted.

Plugging into the fuse box "Ign" terminal should be the same, but a messier installation.

I have removed the yellow wire (between the starter and coil), but it has worked great for 2 years, so I know thats not the problem...

Just last Sunday, I was leaving Reno (Hot August Nights), and there was heavy traffic, even though the temp only went up to 195-200, when the problem first occured, I thought "vapor lock"... After happening 3 times, I realized that as soon as I released the key, the engine fired, but otherwise, not even a partial sputter while cranking over... Car work great up until that point, usually jumping to life almost immediately...

Actually, I guess it did happen a few times before, so probably the last 6-7 times I started it... But never before that...

I thought the purpose of the yellow wire was to give a full 12-volts to the coil to help initial firing, but during actual running, the coil would see only 9 volts...
 

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The 'original' resistor wire source (during cranking) is the wire from the starter. Move your source to the IGN terminal and all will be fine.
 

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Hi Tony
I have a feeling that your soldered "twin lock" may have developed some high resistance corrosion. Cut & clean or just for a test run a temp wire from your ign lead "fuse block" for awhile. Good luck

Jim
 
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