[Tintop55]

Howdy alls ,,, Hope everyone had a great New Years! I know I did anyway I need to puchace a tourque wrench,,, and I was just wondering if anyone would like to comment on what kind they use,,,, and why they like it or dislike it,,, anyone? Take it easy Tintop55

 

[catman]

well I use Snap-On click type tork wrenches ,, only a couple problems , they wont tork in reverse [left hand treaded bolts] and they are not as accurate as a non-click type [ kind were you turn handle to set tork] which has never been a problem as the tork specs on most anything you do will give a range [example: 65 to 70 flbs] the non click type have a finer scale which allows you to do say 67flbs ,, the ease of use and feel of click type are why I like them ,, there is another type which does work just fine and it is the needle type which are cheep and plenty good for building a engine or trans ,, all will do the job ,, if you dont use a tork wrench more then a couple times a year, just go with a needle type ,, if you want one of the others , better buy a quality brand ,, say Craftman, Snap-On, Mac, etc ,,, or you will end up with a piece of crap that will let you down in the middle of a job ,, BTW they are not cheap , hope I helped with your choise

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John
Catapiller Mechanic
Salinas,Ca
70SS 454 Clone {in construction}

 

[lindsay]

I currently have a crappy craftsman. I probably only use it a couple times a year so I guess it's ok. If you a looking for quality I would try Snap-on, Matco, or Mac. You will pay for them though. I too prefer the type you set and it clicks when the amount is reached. I don't like the plastic handle to set the ft. lbs, it's kind of cheap feeling and I would hate to see what happens to it should I ever drop it.

 

[Philip]

I have a Craftsman beam type that I bought in 1967 that still works well and has been tested for accuracy. And I have a Husky click type that I purchased last year after my brother-in-law somehow destroyed my Snap-On. I like the Husky as it has 1 lb. increments. I use them both depending on the job I'm doing. I also have an inch lb torque wrench with a dial register for setting up rotational torque on steering boxes and pinion bearings.

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Philip Valentine
Gold Member #42
"Perseverance is not a long race; it is many short races one after another."
[email protected]

 

[283v8]

I prefer the beam type since they are simpler and almost maintenance free.(Just wipe off the dirt)
The "click" type should be calibrated every so often and the setting set to 0 (I think) between uses.
I suggest reading the instructions on each and deciding which you need. Perhaps talk to a local speed shop and see what they use.
I recommend the beam (pointer) type.

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Gotta have a Chevy !In Durham N.C.
Make it look the way you like it, forget what the other guys say!

 

[Schurkey]

Four advantages for the beam type torque wrench: 1. They're cheap as dirt. 2. No need to send away for recalibration. Adjust the needle to "0" if it gets bent. 3. Works accurately both directions. 4. They're cheap as dirt.

Disadvantages of a beam type torque wrench.
1. Almost none of them have a ratchet built in. 2. You have to look directly at the scale, to see how much torque is indicated. 3. The handle has a "pivot" and you must take care to assure the handle is not pivoted all the way, or your accuracy is toast. You have to be carefull to torque with the handle "floating" on it's pivot. 4. If you're like me, about the third time around on the head bolts, my arm starts to quiver (I'm thinking Oldsmobile, as much as 130 Ft/lbs.) and it is purely impossible to read the scale when your arm gets the shakes.

Get any American made micrometer adjustable wrench. No need to look at the wrench, just "feel" it release, and "hear" the click. Ratchet saves a ton of time. (I use Mac 20-100 ft lb in 3/8 drive, and extra long Mac 50-250 ft lb in 1/2 drive) I do have a beam type 120 inch lb, 1/4 drive for the little stuff. Not much problem with the arm quivers there!

Snap-On sells some that won't torque reverse threads, but are otherwise good wrenches. Be carefull, ask questions of your salesperson. Most micrometer style units are not quite as accurate "backwards" but can be used for reverse thread without damage.

 

[SSteve L]

I have a small and large beam type, I don't use them that often, so I don't want to have to deal with calibration issues of the clickers. As others have said, the click type is awesome for high torque "quivering arm" situations where you can't get a real good look at the dial while using it. I have a couple of friends who are mechanics, and if I am putting on heads when the engine is already installed, or attempting some other potentially akward operating positions, I will borrow a click type from one of them. Remember, you get what you pay for, so shop around.

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Steve

72 Chevelle SS402/4sp

 

[70 SS 454]

previous threads on this topic have suggested that the clickable wrenches vary greatly in accuracy...

tho i have no personal knowledge....



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Rich
Cocoa Beach, Fla
Team Chevelle #380
[email protected]
www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg

 

[dude67]

I think when buying tool that have to be use for task that are important to the assy such as engine and any other torques. You should buy one that is of good quality. If you want to assm. your engine with a torque wrench from harbor freight then the quality of torque will decrease as you use the tool. You can buy cheap with everything else in your toolbox, but buy a good torque wrench!

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Thanks In Advance!
John Corbin Member #313
67' Chevelle Malibu Sleeper(Someday)

San Antonio, Texas

[This message has been edited by John Corbin (edited 01-04-2000).]

 

[Tintop55]

Wow! I am so impressed with how great everyone is that is involved in this Web site!!!! I ended up buying a 3/8 drive 20-100 ft.lbs. snapon tourque wrench. $$$$$ To say the least it looks like I will be eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for lunch for quite a while now!!!! ~ Hey just really wana thank all who replyed on this subject... Tintop55