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My son and I are just finishing up a rebuild of his SB350 - new pistons/rings/bearings. The motor is still on a stand, heads off. The rotating assembly seems a bit stiff to roll over.
Can anyone give me an idea of how many ft lbs it should take to turn over a fresh build like this by hand?
We like to do everything possible to get stuff right the first time as it's a Fiero V8 conversion and dropping the engine is quite a chore.

Specs:
ZZ3, Speedpro pistons and rings, bores scuffed to promote new ring sealing up but not a bore job.

Lusox
 
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My son and I are just finishing up a rebuild of his SB350 - new pistons/rings/bearings. The motor is still on a stand, heads off. The rotating assembly seems a bit stiff to roll over.
Can anyone give me an idea of how many ft lbs it should take to turn over a fresh build like this by hand?
We like to do everything possible to get stuff right the first time as it's a Fiero V8 conversion and dropping the engine is quite a chore.

Specs:
ZZ3, Speedpro pistons and rings, bores scuffed to promote new ring sealing up but not a bore job.

Lusox

Unfortunately, I don't have any torque specs for you on that. And it is tough to come up with a truly meaningful torque number because the breakaway torque to start the rings moving in the bores, is higher than for steady rolling. And once its rolling, its a bit hard to keep a nice steady rotation on the wrench as you roll it over.

Then with a fully assembled engine, you run into also compressing valves springs at 16 different points. The whole point is, it is hard to get one smooth torque number to refer to. If you try to use a clicker torque wrench, you'll find that it will click at one point, but not the same at another. If you use a beam type torque wrench, you'll find the needle moves back and forth as you move around.

But when everything is right, during short block mock-up without rings, you can expect the engine to roll over very nice and free.

During final assembly with only the crank (with proper end play), cam and timing chain installed, you should find that it still rolls over nice and easy if everything is still right. Then as you final install each rod/piston assembly, it will turn over progressively harder because of ring drag. The increase in roll over torque should progress upward steadily and evenly until all the rod/piston assemblies are final installed. This is perfectly normal and expected, though if there is some sudden out of the ordinary jump in drag, then something is not right.

Later, as you install each rocker arm, the roll over torque will also go up because of comrpessing the valve springs. When you are completely done with the build, it will turn over WAY, WAY stiffer than during short block mock-up roll over with no rings. So, if you have been careful to install everything right, then stiffish roll over torque when you are done, is normal and expected. For those building their first engine, they might think something is terribly wrong, when it is perfectly fine. Assuming you've done things correctly, I doubt you have any problem at all. :thumbsup:
 

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Stock-type SBC 327 rebuild I did a few years ago was 19 foot-pounds.
 
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A couple of small blocks I did came in around 15 to 20 ft/ lbs if IRC. My Dart 4.5 bore was more, I believe it was 23 ft /lbs, but might have been 25. This is rotating torque.
If your crank spun freely with torqued down mains, but is very hard to turn after rods/ piston assemblies are installed, I'd check each rod bearing to make sure the chamfer is correct ( if they have one) or a bearing shell is tight due to lint / grit. I'm assuming all clearances were checked prior to assembly.

John
 

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I get 15-18 break away and 8-14 constant

The 406 broke away with 17 and constant torque of 14 with 1/16" ring pack

Now the 327, the break is single digits and constant is single digits but thats a race ring pack. It just goes to show it depends on the package
 

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All those numbers above sound about right...

Depends to a large extent on the rings, and how tight the pistons are fitted. Highest I can ever recall seeing was about 32-35 ft-lbs for a fully built motor. Something more around 15-20 is more typical for just short blocks that I've built and paid attenrtion to that. Full valve train adds a few so don't forget to take that into account if the thing is built up all the way as far as the rockers.
 

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being able to turn it by hand is good:D
 

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I am having the same issue. I only have 4 of 8 pistons installed and it's taking 35lbs to turn it over. No cam yet, just crank and 4 pistons. Before installing any pistons I'm able to spin the crank with very little effort. The 1st time I began installing the pistons it pretty much locked up after 2 pistons were installed. I removed them and started over and this is where I'm at so far. Something seems to be binding up the rods I'm guessing. 350 bored 30 over and rings are gapped at .019.
 

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Be sure you have the rods oriented properly. ( if you didnt take the rods off the slugs nevermind) Did you check side clearance between rods?
 

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KJ,
Since you started another thread on this in the "engine" section I am going to lock this one. Having two threads on the same problem is confusing :( :( This thread is 10 years old anyway.
 
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