[homeruspo]

I have just replaced my quarter panels. I need to fill the gap. I am looking for suggestions on what to fill it with.
I have read both good and bad about lead filling.
If I don't use lead, what is the best alternative.
I did weld some small pieces of sheet metal in before I welded the top down.
Is this a good idea, or should I take it back out?
I was thinking about just welding a piece of sheet metal over the gap and using bondo or something like it.
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[deroid226]

Dont use strait lead they have an allow material. I got mine from eastwood I think. I used a map gas torch with wide tip and it was not that hard. I actually leaded other dents in my body before i used plastic.
You can fill your seam with plastic or aluminium filler but remember it may crack if to thick.
also it will shrink. there is no way to avoid that.
My opinion is use a lead type filler, get it as close as you can and then glass over it to make it perfect.
good luck......

 

[vortec710]

Just make sure you protect yourself from the potential effects of using body lead, like inhaling the fumes or grinding dust, etc.

 

[mromaus]

I agree with deroid.

I just finished using the Eastwood company lead. I used an acetylene torch and it is much trickier than using Bondo or any filler. It took me a while to get a rhythm down on heat and apply, then paddle. Honestly my wife is better at it than I am.

I prepped my surface using 40 grit sanding discs. I used surface prep wax and grease remover for painting. Made sure there was absolutely no rust. I used the flux which the videos also make look really easy, there is a trick to it. Then pushed and paddled the lead, also kind of tricky. If the lead gets too hot it just beads away.

From there, with a respirator, goggles and gloves I sanded the lead down with 80 grit. Eastwood solder is lead free, that doesn't mean I want to breath it in or eat it as it gets all over me. The stuff sands really well and you will be amazed at how the tinned surface and lead bond.

The stuff is basically plumbers solder, or it might just be plumbers solder. Go on Youtube and watch a couple of videos, most guys are well into their 70's who do this and have been doing it since they were 20. While lead is dangerous and you should be careful, the concerns I see online tend to be inflated.

It was cool learning such an antiquated technique, but it is definitely an artisan process. I see why plastic fillers are more popular, you can be clueless and apply the stuff, but I the fumes are just as toxic. Applying lead took a lot of research on my part, but I am appreciative of the results.

I etched the remain bare metal then covered with Evercoat kitty hair, I chose long strand filler because I want the repair to be strong. I chose ever coat because they state their product is waterproof.. While I was able to smooth about about 75% with lead I sill had the rest to worry about. From there I think I will use the Evercoat metal glaze ultra, which I believe is also protective against corrosion. Evercoat says something about the product withstanding a 500 hour salt test, I don't know what that means.

Wax and grease remover

Summit Racing SUM-UP404Q Summit Racing™ Wax and Grease Removers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Wax and Grease Removers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Cleaning Solutions at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I purchased this kit.

EW Body Solder Kit Deluxe with VHS

Includes 5 lbs. of 30/70 lead-basedsolder for serious soldering pros

www.eastwood.com

Summit metal etch

Summit Racing SUM-942010 Summit Racing™ Metal Etch | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Metal Etch with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Cleaning Solutions at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

A little of this stuff goes a long way, I used bondo before. I used way less of this.

Evercoat FIB-868 Evercoat Kitty Hair Fiberglass Reinforced Body Filler | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Evercoat Kitty Hair Fiberglass Reinforced Body Filler with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Auto Body Fillers and Putties at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I used these dish scrubbers to apply the flux, easier than using the acid brush.(I kept melting the brush)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTZC5X1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CMH2Fb8KFF5WN


I purchased these squeeze bottle for the soda water mix. It was just easier than how the old man handled it in the video with a bucket. I wanted to make sure that the acid is neutralized.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTRH3SL/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_HKH2FbMB9VZ1E

This video is better than DVD it comes with.

I hope that this is helpful.

 

[weidhopper]

I used Evercoat Metal-2-Metal on my Chevelle it's an aluminum filled body filler designed to take the place of lead

 

[EAS 67 Malibu]

2nd vote for Kitty Hair.
This solves a few things.
First off, I have never used lead or the new style alternatives. But it sounds pretty tricky.
On the other hand, I have over 30 years experience, and have been using Kitty Hair on custom work for a long time. I prefer Duraglass now, as it is short strand, and much easier to work with.

So the reason for going with a fiberglass filler over welds, like shaved door handles and where panels join is. If you only use plastic filler, you will end up seeing the weld after time. Now, depending on how a person finishes their work you may or may not notice this. But if you put a world class finish on it, and you know what to look for, you will see it.
You don't have to finish it in Duraglass, but it needs to cover the welded part. I always leave these areas a little low for that reason.
The factory used lead on these areas for a reason, and now fiberglass filler does the same thing. And much easier than learning a new and complex technique. But that's just me. Have fun with your ride!

 

[TechNova]

I use MIG brazing

 

[homeruspo]

Thanks for all the good ideas.

 

[Raven1]

I own a resto shop and have been in business for nearly forty years. I use short strand chased with filler and never had an issue with sail panels. Also never bought one thing from Eastwood. Nobody I know in business does

 

[sstom66]

2nd vote for Kitty Hair.
This solves a few things.
First off, I have never used lead or the new style alternatives. But it sounds pretty tricky.
On the other hand, I have over 30 years experience, and have been using Kitty Hair on custom work for a long time. I prefer Duraglass now, as it is short strand, and much easier to work with.

So the reason for going with a fiberglass filler over welds, like shaved door handles and where panels join is. If you only use plastic filler, you will end up seeing the weld after time. Now, depending on how a person finishes their work you may or may not notice this. But if you put a world class finish on it, and you know what to look for, you will see it.
You don't have to finish it in Duraglass, but it needs to cover the welded part. I always leave these areas a little low for that reason.
The factory used lead on these areas for a reason, and now fiberglass filler does the same thing. And much easier than learning a new and complex technique. But that's just me. Have fun with your ride!

I also use Duraglass with great long lasting results. Tom..

 

[mromaus]

I used the long strand over the short strand because my understanding is that it is a little stronger. I'm not working for money or trying to save time so overkill works for me.

I was also impressed with how that Evercoat adheres. I dropped some on my sandy driveway and it's on there.

I liked the body solder and would recommend it to anyone. I was impressed on how it bonded and how it becomes structural. If done right nothing is going to happen to that lead. Like I mentioned it was cool learning such an artisan technique. If you want to challenge yourself I would go for it.

At the same time, I would agree with anyone who says that there are plenty of viable options other than body solder. You will find a number of folks who would disagree with me on that point.

Eastwood products are not designed for business owners they are designed for DIYers. I am not some superfan of Eastwood by any means, I wouldn't consider them the HF of autobody either. They make bodywork accessible to the average person who does the work occasionally.

This kit is very handy because it is leadfree and it comes with pretty much everything you need. I did my research and most reported equitable results but agreed that the lead free solder requires a bit more heat than actual lead.

 

[TechNova]

I wouldn't consider Eastwood the Harbor Freight of auto body either, but if they work hard to improve they could get up to that level.

 

[mromaus]

I believe sir, you and I should high jack this thread to fight over the quality of Eastwood company products.

Honestly, I wouldn't purchase too many products from either with high expectations. In the case of both, sometimes they carry some niche products that you won't find in many other places. Like in this case, body solder. Which happened to work out very well.

 

[billdini]

If I read your initial post it sounds like you have a convertible. In either case I have had experience with hardtops as well, When I seamed my area with my convertible where the quarters meet the forward trunk panel I melted the lead back together where a slight crack occurred with the factory work. I also went over that area with a very strong epoxy called MarineTex which has a 10k psi rating. Well the hairline crack is back and I am kicking my ass for not solid welding that seam prior to final finish. I also had a 69 Camaro SS and the factory seam where the quarter met the roof cracked for about 2 inches from the window. When I restored the car I welded that solid and never had an issue again. I am kicking myself in the ass that I didn't follow my gut with my 68. Solid weld is stronger than a spot weld every time.

 

[mromaus]

I watched a video where an old guy was making a tail light housing out of body solder, it wasn't clear if he was using lead sticks or the Eastwood stuff.

He used a metal pipe as a scaffold and build up the lead around where the tail light would sit. To my surprise he then pulled out the metal pipe. Now don't get me wrong the work was impressive, but I don't know that I would rely on the product that much. I like the product for filling in imperfections, anything tha structural I would just fabricate or replace.

At the same time, that was the basis for repairs fifty years ago. If the product started to fail after 30-40 years of neglect and abuse. That's not bad.

What I can tell you is that if the surface is not prepped and tinned properly the material will fail. Also, as far as I understand you can not just melt the solder the surface underneath needs be at temperature or the material will fail.

 

[BlueSS454]

I have been using Duraglass on quarter to roof seams for 15 years. I also plug and stitch weld the seam. Once th gap is filled, a swipe of 3M Platinum plus body filler finishes it off. No failures on coupes or convertibles as of yet.
I’ve heard of failures with “lead” or body solder with modern urethane primers so you may want to do some research on that before committing to a lead filler.

 

[homeruspo]

I own a resto shop and have been in business for nearly forty years. I use short strand chased with filler and never had an issue with sail panels. Also never bought one thing from Eastwood. Nobody I know in business does

What is short stand chased?

 

[Raven1]

Short strand chased with a skim of body filler. Fully weld the sail panel seams.

 

[mromaus]

The reason for failures for primers and paint with lead is that the process uses acid in the flux. The acid needs to be neutralized or else it will pop through the primer, base coat and clear. Similar to how peroxide (I think) in Bondo will pop through if not handled properly. I don't use much Bondo and soft putties much, I just don't like them.

I tackled body solder because I felt it was something cool to learn. I like the results, but I am still using fiber glass. If you were to argue with me that the body solder is not worth doing I would say that is agreeable.

BUT, I sealed up pin holes using the body solder, when sanding down to bare metal you may be hard pressed to find the solder if it bonds well. Lastly, when I was sand blasting my panel the other day to work on a new section, I can tell you that the fiber glass was flaking off and the lead was not.

My experience with body fillers is limited, my experience is mostly with paint work, I'm coming from the motorcycle restoration world. I would agree that fiber glass is a long term fix if done correctly. I would argue and I am not alone here, that the body solder is probably a longer term fix.

I watch guys on TV use what looks like reduced Bondo to skim coat then sand the car. While I am not saying I am correct, but it feels like they are pouring soft spackle on the car making it look smooth to sit in a garage.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

If you do lead right its a great repair and in some uses superior to body filler.
I would not use Eastwoods lead free. It has a higher melt temp, meaning you WILL dump more heat into the panel. It is harder to work.
Stick with decades proven 70/30.

Johnsons, do a google search has the 70/30 and I believe the harder to find 80/20 lead sticks cheaper then what Eastwoods sells for.

Watch that video with Gene and then watch it again. Clean the metal before and after, that's the key!!!