[GRC1970]

What's a good clearance between side wall of tire and wheel well lip. I just put quarters on and the old ones were trimmed back but also scabbed together out or random sheetmetal so the lip was not in factory position let's say. I just put in new poly body bushings, full Hotchkiss control arms and 1 inch sway bar. I think I need to trim some back but wondering how much.

 

[cage2592]

Are you going to use chrome trim rings? I trimmed mine back to the chrome lip as I'm using them. I have 305 rears with a lowered rear so my tires sit in the fender well evenly on both sides with 3/8" spacing and do not rub even on heavy turns. You can also get away with minor adjustments to even them up side-to-side if you have adjustable uppers.

Mike

 

[GRC1970]

Ya I'm using the chrome trim. I'm running 305/45/18 w/5in back space and they rubbed a little before, I think the new body bushings should fix most of that. Once I get the driver's side finished up I may need to center the rear some more. I made more room to the inner wheel wells while it was cut open. Might just take ½ inch off the outer before there is paint to ruin. I got a real short ⅜ clearance as it sits.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Unless you are going to do some serious Corner Carving Track like Driving I would not do anything to the Fender Lip
as it seems in your last Pic the Top of the Tire is under the Fender Lip

However if you have any thing heavy in the Trunk or People in the Back Seat
then that would lower the Body down to where the Tire will be Higher up in the Wheel/Tire Well
and therefore any Hard Corning could cause the Tire to Rub on the Sharp Fender Lip

Here are my Pics of my 67 PassengerSide, did not have to do the DriverSide,
that I Trimmed the Fender Lip Edge then put back on the Chrome Trim
I then Bent Up and back towards the Inside of the Fender so there would not be any Sharp Edges to cut the Tire

Tires/Wheels on the Rear = M/T ET Street S/S # 3454 295/55/15
= 10.6” Tread Width / 12.2” Side Wall Width / 27.8” Dia.
On 10" Wide Wheels

DriverSide Fender Lip that did not need any cutting etc.

PassengerSide Before Cutting/Trimming Fender Metal Off

PassengerSide After I trimmed the Fender Metal off and Bent the chrome Trim Up & Back

 

[GRC1970]

No pl

Unless you are going to do some serious Corner Carving Track like Driving I would not do anything to the Fender Lip
as it seems in your last Pic the Top of the Tire is under the Fender Lip

However if you have any thing heavy in the Trunk or People in the Back Seat
then that would lower the Body down to where the Tire will be Higher up in the Wheel/Tire Well
and therefore any Hard Corning could cause the Tire to Rub on the Sharp Fender Lip

Here are my Pics of my 67 PassengerSide, did not have to do the DriverSide,
that I Trimmed the Fender Lip Edge then put back on the Chrome Trim
I then Bent Up and back towards the Inside of the Fender so there would not be any Sharp Edges to cut the Tire
View attachment 726325
Tires/Wheels on the Rear = M/T ET Street S/S # 3454 295/55/15
= 10.6” Tread Width / 12.2” Side Wall Width / 27.8” Dia.
On 10" Wide Wheels

DriverSide Fender Lip that did not need any cutting etc.
View attachment 726328

PassengerSide Before Cutting/Trimming Fender Metal Off
View attachment 726330



PassengerSide After I trimmed the Fender Metal off and Bent the chrome Trim Up & Back
View attachment 726329

No plans for any competition carving. Boy that's tight and you don't rub huh. Well I guess I'll see how the other side looks when I get that new wheel well in place, maybe the axle can move to driver's side and make it better.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Never had a Tire Rub on either Side of the Car on the INside or the OUTside
you have to make sure you have Wheels with the Right BackSpace
and also good/tight Suspension Parts from UMI Perf makes sure the Rear does not move around very much from side to side

 

[GRC1970]

Never had a Tire Rub on either Side of the Car on the INside or the OUTside
you have to make sure you have Wheels with the Right BackSpace
and also good/tight Suspension Parts from UMI Perf makes sure the Rear does not move around very much from side to side

I got all the Hotchkiss control arms and stuff out back and it seems rigid, my body bushings were wasted so I think that was alot of my problem.

 

[72mojave]

I trimmed mine back even with the stainless trim. That left me with 3/8" on both sides. My car is lowered quite a bit so the widest part of the tire is adjacent to the lip. I had seen on another forum that a wheel/tire installer had said he always shot for at least 3/8" clearance. If your car isn't lowered so much, you might be able to get away with less space.

 

[cage2592]

GRC1970, I didn't see you ever stated your wheel specs other than 5" BS. I'm running 20x10 with 5.74" BS. My tires sit with the same 3/8" distance on outside and inside sidewalls.

Mike

 

[GRC1970]

Sure I did after your first post 305/45/18 w/5in backspace

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Sure I did after your first post 305/45/18 w/5in backspace

So is that a 5" BackSpace on a ?? Wide Wheel ???
Very important that we know how Wide the Wheel is !!!

 

[cage2592]

Yes Sir but I'm talking about the 'wheel' spec and not tire. 5" BS is different on a 10" wide wheel vs an 8" wide. You told us the Wheel Diameter (18") and the BS (5"). Not the width.
1) 5" BS on a 8" wide = +13 mm (.5")
2) 5" BS on a 10" wide = -13 mm (.5")

So a 5" BS on the 10" wide wheel will push the tire 1" further out than that same tire on the 8" wide wheel. Pushing the outer sidewall of the tire closer to the fender lip.

I have a 20x10 wheel with 5.74" BS so my 305 tire sits 3/4" (.75) further inward from the fender lip.

EDIT: I posted the same as Kirk. I think I have those numbers correct Kirk.

Mike

 

[GRC1970]

Oh duh I see. Sorry guys it's on a 9 inch wide wheel

 

[GRC1970]

Yes Sir but I'm talking about the 'wheel' spec and not tire. 5" BS is different on a 10" wide wheel vs an 8" wide. You told us the Wheel Diameter (18") and the BS (5"). Not the width.
1) 5" BS on a 8" wide = +13 mm (.5")
2) 5" BS on a 10" wide = -13 mm (.5")

So a 5" BS on the 10" wide wheel will push the tire 1" further out than that same tire on the 8" wide wheel. Pushing the outer sidewall of the tire closer to the fender lip.

I have a 20x10 wheel with 5.74" BS so my 305 tire sits 3/4" (.75) further inward from the fender lip.

EDIT: I posted the same as Kirk. I think I have those numbers correct Kirk.

Mike

Is your car mini tubbed to run that backspacing? I had to put ¼ inch wheel spacers in after getting the tires on it now. They rubbed inside every time I turned with any throttle. I just pushed the inner Wells in to make room so I don't run the wheel spacers anymore.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Since 1970 Chevelle Stock RearEnds are 61" Wide
" cage 2592 " was correct in using a 5.75" BS on a 10" Wide Wheel
since his 1970 has a Wider RearEnd than the 67s and Prior Stock Width RE is 60"
which allowed for the 1/2" Wider RearEnd on each side on his 1970

As the 67 and Prior ideally use 8" Wheels with a 4.5" BS or 10" Wheels with a 5.5" BS
to Center the Wheel/Tire Combo in the Wheel/Tire Wells
thus 61" - 60" = 1" div in half for each side = .50" means that you add a 1/4" to the BS
eg. 8" WW = 4.5"BS + .25" = 4.75"BS and 10"WW = 5.5"BS + .25" = 5.75"BS

Depending how Wide your/the Tire is a 5.25" or 5.5" BS might be better
But the only way to be sure is for you to Measure the Space in your Wheel/Tire Wells

How To Measure Your Car's Wheel Wells

This might be a good read and/ for a Sticky for the Wheels & Tires Forum Every car is different from Driver Side to Passenger Side and taking measurements of your car's Rear Wheel Wells etc is the key to what Wheel / Tire Combo size will fit without rubbing or hitting anything ; BACK...

www.chevelles.com

AND it makes a difference if you are running Drum or Disc Rear Brakes

It sounds like you might have really Wide Disc Brakes on the RearEnd or your RearEnd is NOT 61" Wide
if you do not have at lest a 1/2" Space between your Tire and the Frame on the INside

How Wide is the Tire Side Wall ??

I am like " cage2582 " and have at lest 3/8" Space/Clearance on the INside and OUTside
from the Tires Side Wall to Frame / Fender Lip on my Stock Width Wheel/Tire Wells

 

[cage2592]

No. All stock axle width and no spacers or tubs. 305's take a pretty precise measurement. Your 305/45R18 is about .5" taller than my 305/35R20. Usually where most people rub with 305's are the rear inner fender wall (closest to the trunk) as that area tapers to the rear of the inner fender well. I'm guessing that's where you were rubbing and due to the slightly larger in dia. your tire is than mine. With your 9" wide wheel and 5" BS, you're .25" closer to the outer fender lip than I am. Which in turn moves you out away from the inside the .25". Then plus your .25" spacer.

With all that, some options (as well as any others that some might post)
1) You live with what you have and use adj. uppers to better position from side to side. Install the fender trim to ensure you have enough lip to secure them and trim the excess.
2) And / or, Drop down about .5" on tire diameter.
3) Install Adj. Lowers as well as Uppers to retain your pinion angle and mover your entire rear axle forward about an 1" - 2" for some wider wheel well room and away from the rear taper. (ensure you have the equal 1"-2" room on the Driveshaft Trans slip Yoke to move forward into the Trans).
4) Follow Kirks measurements.

Mike

 

[GRC1970]

Thanks a bunch kirk, I do have disk brakes that are contributing, I have checked the date code on the rear diff and it's a 70. The strange axles I put in it pushed the wheels out further so ya 5.25 woulda probably been ideal. I'm just betting the damn body bushings caused more rubbing than anything else. It all works now and I set the other wheel well this afternoon and I got the same gap on both sides with no wheel spacers. Thanks a bunch for the help guys.

Cage, see your also an international guy. Wheres a good place to find parts for a 1941 k 1500? My dad's neighbor said he could have this pickup if he would just get it out of the tree patch. He tinkered on it and got it to run then drove it home. Sat for 50 years. He's having hell finding a master cylinder for it

 

[GRC1970]

No. All stock axle width and no spacers or tubs. 305's take a pretty precise measurement. Your 305/45R18 is about .5" taller than my 305/35R20. Usually where most people rub with 305's are the rear inner fender wall (closest to the trunk) as that area tapers to the rear of the inner fender well. I'm guessing that's where you were rubbing and due to the slightly larger in dia. your tire is than mine. With your 9" wide wheel and 5" BS, you're .25" closer to the outer fender lip than I am. Which in turn moves you out away from the inside the .25". Then plus your .25" spacer.

With all that, some options (as well as any others that some might post)
1) You live with what you have and use adj. uppers to better position from side to side. Install the fender trim to ensure you have enough lip to secure them and trim the excess.
2) And / or, Drop down about .5" on tire diameter.
3) Install Adj. Lowers as well as Uppers to retain your pinion angle and mover your entire rear axle forward about an 1" - 2" for some wider wheel well room and away from the rear taper. (ensure you have the equal 1"-2" room on the Driveshaft Trans slip Yoke to move forward into the Trans).
4) Follow Kirks measurements.

Mike

Your exactly right rubbing in trunk corner, I cut it open this weekend and made room where it was rubbing on the inside, took wheel spacers out and now I may just trim ¼ off the outside to be safe and call it good.

 

[cage2592]

GRC, Glad you got it fixed up and not rubbing.

On your Fathers International, Outstanding find and great condition. There are many places that still sell the Masters. A few items about his truck. Its a K series as you noted but I cant tell if its a 1, 2, or 3, You'd have to look at the rear suspension and frame to tell which and all else being the same. K1 = 1/2 ton, K2 = 3/4 ton, K3 = 1 ton. That bed is also not the original. K's never came with rear flat fenders unless they were dual rears, and those flatty's were twice the width as those. It looks like that bed is from a 1938-40 D2. Two giveaway's, those years did come with flat fenders and two, the S shape pillar just behind the cab. See box in yellow below. It was common those early years because most farm trucks that era came with a flatbed. City trucks had the full bed. So farmers would take off the flat bed and install the only other bed that was available from the the previous few years. I prefer that bed anyway as It gives it more character with the flatty's and curve. More of a country look than the rounded fenders.

Mike

 

[GRC1970]

GRC, Glad you got it fixed up and not rubbing.

On your Fathers International, Outstanding find and great condition. There are many places that still sell the Masters. A few items about his truck. Its a K series as you noted but I cant tell if its a 1, 2, or 3, You'd have to look at the rear suspension and frame to tell which and all else being the same. K1 = 1/2 ton, K2 = 3/4 ton, K3 = 1 ton. That bed is also not the original. K's never came with rear flat fenders unless they were dual rears, and those flatty's were twice the width as those. It looks like that bed is from a 1938-40 D2. Two giveaway's, those years did come with flat fenders and two, the S shape pillar just behind the cab. See box in yellow below. It was common those early years because most farm trucks that era came with a flatbed. City trucks had the full bed. So farmers would take off the flat bed and install the only other bed that was available from the the previous few years. I prefer that bed anyway as It gives it more character with the flatty's and curve. More of a country look than the rounded fenders.

Mike

View attachment 726416

View attachment 726414

Its a K1 i have a picture of the vin tag but its all inverted backwards because i took it in selfie mode or something. i thought it was just neat as hell that he got this old bugger to fire up and drove it around. the look on the guys face who gave it away had to of been priceless. thanks for the link i will pass it on to him.