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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think PST has sent me 4 of the same tie rods. They all have the grease fitting hole on the bottom and are the same length. Isn't one shorter than the other? I have the engine /front clip removed from my car, and I read somewhere about torqueing the bolts. Can anyone tell me how much to torque to and if I should wait until the car is back together for the final torque? I have tried to match everything up to their catalog picture and my car. Too bad they couldn't have thrown in some illustrated instructions for us dufuses. Yes this is my first front end rebuil and I'm also changing all 4 springs.
Thanks Gary Davis
 

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Gary,
It's been so long since I did a front end I cannot remember about length of the tie rod ends. I think the only difference is two have left hand threads. Look at your old ones and see which way you turn to adjust toe-in. Torque for tie rod ends is 35ft lbs inner and outer, plus additional torque to align the cotter pin hole. Do not back off the nut to align for the cotter pin hole.

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ACES #02334
Mike Crosby
 

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Gary, what year on you working on? I think it was up to 1971 that the inner tie-rod ends have the greese zerk on the end. My 66 is this way. You will most likely have a clearance problem with the zerks on the bottom. Do they match your old ones? PST did this to me also. I had to send them back. Good Luck, Rick...
 

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I just installed a tie rod from PST on my '70 a couple days ago. Both ends were about the same length but slightly different shape. The inner end (I think) had a very slight bend to it - I think to accomodate geometry around the center link. Both ends had zerks on the back on the rod - neither on the end. I suspected clearance problems as I was installing them - but there were none.

As far as length, I set the new one to be exactly the same length as the old one before installing it. As I put it on the car I realized it was off by almost 2 inches. So I went back and compared it to the other one; same length! I suspect that because I switched steering knuckles (going from drums to disks) that this may have been the culprit for the need for different length tie rods.

As far as illustrations, PST sells a video called "Rebuilding your front end" that gives some good instructions on the entire process of installing a PST Super Front End Kit on a GM A-body. My biggest complaint is that in the video they make everything look amazingly simple. Like removing/installing the bushings - on the video they do it with a hammer and make it look simple. Its not! Anyways, if you are like me and have never done a front end before - the video might help a bit. But still try to get help from friends or from this site. The site provided me alot of real world experience that was glossed over in the video.

Good luck! And ask plenty of questions on this site to make sure you do things correctly and safe (spring removal/installation).
 

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Mine from PST were different from the originals in length - don't remember how much - but they worked fine.
What really matters is overall length of the tie-rod assembly when put together and some threads left for adjustment. Longer threads will disappear into the adjusting sleeve up to a point.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've got a 68 Malibu. The one's on the car have different locations for the grease fittings. The ones
at the wheel are on the bottom and the ones under
the motor have fittings on the end pointing up toward the motor.

Update: I tried the ends in the adjustment sleeve and I have two RH and two LH rod ends. Told you I was a dufe! All 4 are identical down to the letters and numbers stamped on them except for the threads.I may have a problem getting to the fittings on the inners, now there is less that 1 inch space between crossmember and bottom of end
may have to use a 90 degree zerk or grease it off the rack so I can turn the wheels. Heck I may even plumb the things up beside the steering wheel so I can grease and drive at the same time!!!!

Thanks for your help I'll let you know how it comes
out. Now to find the time to get back to it!!!!
Gary Davis
68 Malibu

[This message has been edited by Gary D (edited 04-13-99).]
 

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Gary, IF you had the upper and lower control arms off to replace the bushings, you will need to wait until you have the car all together to torque the bolts that hold them in to get the proper set and so the bushings wont be twisted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
chev 64 yes I plan to change my control arm bushings.Thanks for the advice should I wait on any of the other pieces? I am using the super front end kit from PST.
 

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guys,
I did my front end a couple of months ago.
got the premuim kit from pst.two tie rods were shorter than the other two,also left handed threads.the inner tie rods(closest to engine)had grease holes pointing toward cross
member. had to use 90 degree fittings that fell into my pocket at work.those a-arm bushings are a real pian.unless you have a press and a helper to hold it while you pull the handle i recommend that you take it to a local machine shop.this is not a job for the shadetree or a hammer and block of wood.i used pst springs all the way around and was
surprised at how high the car sit in front.
after a couple of months the springs settled down some.it sits just right now.
the rear springs are a piece of cake.be extremely carefull when installing the new front springs,they can get a little wild since they need to be compressed a little just to fit in the hole.i recommend using a spring compressor tool.it is better to be safe and they are easier to get fitted properly.mine were so tight that i couldnt rotate them like i needed to after they were in place.the car drives so much better after
you willbe glad you went to the effort.not a fun job but,it will give pleasure each time you run that chevell down the street with the front grill sitting up high and proud.
the paint i used on the parts got all scraped
up during install.use the high quality paint
if you can find it. good luck,tony 64SS
PS THOSE SKINNED KNUCKLES "OUCH"
 
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