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In process of replacing upper and lower arms, springs and shocks and converting to discs.

To my untrained eye, the spindle looks misaligned - it seems the ball joints ought to to be relatively straight up and down but as the pictures show, they're both at an angle.

And I don't know if it's related, but I can't get the bottom of the shock to bolt up to the lower arm.

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What brand arms are they? Some of the imports are priced really low and are tempting to buy but I would stay away! Some companies like CPP sell both. Buy the better arm. Buy an American brand name so you know the geometry and quality are good.

I'd remove the springs so you can check the travel from bump stop to bump stop for any binding at the ball joints.

Shocks? The bolt holes don't align or does the shape/contour of the arm prohibit the shock from bolting in place. Or is the shock mount not centered in the spring pocket?
 

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Withe the control arms fully extended down it will look like that. You need to jack up the arm with the weight of the vehicle on it. Your trying to raise the arm to the proper ride height to simulate the car being on its tires. Once you do that, take another picture and post it. Most likely it will look right after that.
 

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Happen to be in the garage.... I dis mine about a month ago... mine looked really of until I put the car on the ground... but now that I just took this picture... they don't look all that "on" with the car lowered... I had called the tech department of where I bought my arms and brake setup... they said when the car is lowered in lines up...



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The shock lines up, but I can't compress it enough to get the bottom bolts bolted up.
I cut about a 1/2 long 2x4 and placed it on its side, then placed it between the Jack and bottom of the shock... as I jacked up I aligned the holes to be close... I'd put one in... hit the 2x4 to the other side aand put the second in... I'm sure there is a better way.. but this way it took me about ten min a side...

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The shock lines up, but I can't compress it enough to get the bottom bolts bolted up.
Easy fix.
Many auto parts stores and the big catalog houses like Summit or Jegs sell shock absorber extensions. They come in various lengths. Use one that is long enough that you have to compress the shock about a half inch to get the shock mount against the lower control arm. Do this with the spring fully extended, and no weight on it.

If you have to compress the spring to bolt up the shock, you will put all the spring force on the shock when the spring is fully extended, and you don't want that, either in the garage, or on the road.
 

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I agree with the above that the suspension will look bound at times until the car is setting on the ground. Tighten the lower control arms bolts once its at ride height too. It is always a good idea to check the full travel without the spring when installing aftermarket parts, don't have to but I typically check.

Typically the shock is only about 1-1.5" away from the control arm when you install them. If it is farther away than that then I would question if they are correct. They may be too long. They look correct in the picture. The block of wood trick described above should do the trick. Or use a series of longer bolts to esentially compress the shock until you can install the permanent bolts. Bilstein shocks are pretty stiff.
 
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