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Discussion Starter #1
I put new rear bushings in my 69 last summer, polygraphite, they worked great no more wheel hop. So this winter I did the front end, just finished, all went well. When I set it down I noticed the drivers side is about 3/4 to 1 inch higher than the passenger side. I've double checked everything. Springs are seated properly in lower control arms, everything torqued correctly. I checked front and rear and the whole passenger side is lower. Did I do something wrong or am I missing something simple? My next step is to swap rear springs left to right and right to left and see if the high side switches also. If it does I guess those rear springs that look new are tired. Any thoughts would help.

[This message has been edited by jrm (edited 03-22-99).]

[This message has been edited by jrm (edited 03-22-99).]
 

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jrm;

Before you go any further, put a floor jack under the center of the rear end and jack it up so that the rear tires just get off the ground. Then check to see if the front of the car is level (side to side). By having the jack in the center, the rear springs can't throw it off.

Then do the same sort of thing to the front.

Wes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wes, thanks for your thoughts.
I had done that and the body sits level with the jack under the rear end but the rear tires are not level. The driver rear tire is an inch higher off the ground than the passenger tire. Last night I swap rear springs (right for left) with no change to ride hieght. How important is preloading the ride hieght before torqueing the control arm bushings. In the assembly manual it says this is "Mandatory Assembly Sequence". I had my mechanic put the new rear poly bushings in last summer so I don't know if he did that.
With all four tires on the ground the frame is level at the front but as you move back it gets higher on the driver side.
Thanks, jrm
 

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Does the rear end have a sway bar? If so, make sure you only torque the sway bar bolts with the car sitting level. The sway bar could also be bent. Try taking it out and lowering the car to see if it makes any difference.

To the best if my knowledge you only have to torque rubber bushings at ride height. The polygraphite bushings are not bonded to the bushing or center sleeve, so they should float even when torqued.

Did you have the rear upper control arms replaced? If so, are they adjustable? Could one of your rear control arms be bent? Do you have air shocks or air bags? Any of these could make a difference.

What happens if you bounce the rear end? Will it level out? Does it level out if you drive the car?

Sorry, lots of questions and no answers
.
 

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I had a similar problem with my car sitting higher on one side, even after replacing all of the suspension bushings with polyurethene. Finally replaced all the body mount bushings with polyurethene and presto! perfectly level.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No rear sway bar on the car. Did not replace any control arms as they looked fine. Bouncing doesn't help and it's still too @!#%$ cold here to take it out for a drive. No rear air bags or air shocks. I did not torque the front rubber bushings at ride height but the problem seems like it's in the rear. All good thoughts and I appreciate the help! The poly body mount bushing idea sounds interesting. Are they tough to get at to replace? I'm going to try "Airlift" bags in the rear coils. Sounds like airshocks could crack the frame at the mounts. Thanks again.
 

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jrm,
These are all good suggestions, and it sounds like you're following up on all of them,but I want to relate a personal experience.
I bought a '69 convertible in Oct. 98 that I KNOW has a twisted chassis from a rear end collision. Before I found this out for certain I had replaced the rear springs. I couldn't believe the car tilted so much at the rear after that. Getting a body shop to take this car for chassis straightening during the winter has been nearly impossible, so it has sat for the past 5 months (driven occasionally). Now I see that it has gradually almost evened out. The combination of vehicle weight and spring and bushing compression seems to have equalized, and the car doesn't look so twisted anymore.
Back to your car. I'm wondering if maybe there was (and still is) something on your car that is bent and it looked okay until you replaced the items that had compensated for it? If you support the car on a level floor with 4 jackstands placed at the ends of both frame rails, you can take vertical measurements from the ends of the chassis at each side and compare. If it's a small amount, maybe in time it'll settle back to something not very noticeable.
Hope this helps,
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Rich,
Thanks for your reply. With the car on stands I have about one inch difference from right to left. It's interesting that you mention giving it some time because It seems as though it has settled some already. With the car on all fours immediately after rebuild there was a little over one inch difference, this is now down to about 7/8". I did put airbags in the springs yesterday but with the bag on the low side inflated to max pressure (35lbs.) and other side at minimum (5lbs.) I still have 1/2" difference. Perhaps I should have waited or risked using air shocks. From what I'm told ar shocks would crack the frame at the shock mounts. Has anyone tried "beefing up" the frame at the shock mounts to carry more wieght? Anyway thanks for your help Rich.
jrm
 

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JRM, have to ask a ?.U indiciated all was OK when u did the rear bushings & problem started when u did the front...why do u think the problem is at the rear...? U also said the front springs are seated in the lower A arm ok but are they seated in the frame notch on the top spring pocket? If the spring is not seated correctly in the top pocket it will cause an height differance.lastly, R your tire sizes the same..sorry, had to ask.
 

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JRM, You say that with the car supported on jack stands at the ends of the straight parts of the frame rails(at the rocker panels) there is a difference of 1" even though the jack stands are at equal height? If you are measuring the frame at the ends (near the bumpers) then it would seem to me that the frame is bent forward (or behind as the case may be) the frame side rails. One inch is more than factory tolerances, but it can be straightened on a frame machine.
Rich
 

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Control arm bushings are not to be tighted untill the wheels are on the ground. Won't hurt to drive the car around the block making left and right turns. Then tighten the bushings to specs. with the wheels on the ground.
 

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I don't think you have a thing to worry about. I completely rebuilt my 70 Camino suspension a few years ago and initially the front sat high, with 1 corner higher than the other. After a couple months (at most) of driving, the whole thing settled down to normal heights. I think the springs need to "work in". Give it a couple months and some miles before you get excited!
 
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