Team Chevelle banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pedal switch was tested and is operating correctly. ( checked with multimeter) Checked continuity in solenoid and it is good. Car originally had 2.73 rear gears but I switched to 3.42 gears and this was the catalyst. No more down shift. I hate it. Especially with column shift. Would a steeper gear have such an effect so as to render the downshift inoperative? Can i adjust something? I’m ready to throw the 2.73 back in as i want to just mash the pedal and downshift like it used to. I have a built 496 so i may just do that if i can’t sort this out. The pedal rod is contacting switch adequately. I appreciate any help. Thanks.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
Yes, downshift with any gears.
Go and try it. Just pull the shifter to second gear and stomp on the go pedal.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
To find out if it is working you don't have to drive car. Try this. Turn ignition switch to run don't start car . With your fingers pull the lever on kick down switch all the way down if working you should hear a relay click out of the trans. If you don't hear a click its either switch is bad or no 12 volts to switch. Note only 12 volts goes to 1 prong blade for the connection on trans. If all checks out switch and 12 volts then the switch internal in transmission is done.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
To find out if it is working you don't have to drive car. Try this. Turn ignition switch to run don't start car . With your fingers pull the lever on kick down switch all the way down if working you should hear a relay click out of the trans. If you don't hear a click its either switch is bad or no 12 volts to switch. Note only 12 volts goes to 1 prong blade for the connection on trans. If all checks out switch and 12 volts then the switch internal in transmission is done.

I didn't say this was a method to check where the problem is.
OP doesn't know what it should feel like with the gears he has. A drive will most definitely let him know how it should feel with the gears he has.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
The kick down should still work but because you added gear the shift points will happen at a lower MPH. Just using numbers, if you floored it at 30 and down shifted into first and shifted into second at 45. Now with more gear you have to be at 20 and for it to kick down and shifts into second at 35. If you want to raise the RPM shift points, or lower, you can buy governor shift kit (springs and weights) to dial in your trans.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input. I’m familiar with the governor. I actually rebuilt this with one of Jake’s Performance kits. I adjusted the vacuum modulator and the shift rpm points are fine. No matter what mph i mash the pedal, it doesn’t down shift when in ”D” ( drive). It does downshift when i use the column shifter manually. I put a Trans go 1-2 kit in it. I’ll test the solenoid again and see what happens. All appreciated
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,251 Posts
A little off topic here, but the AIM schematic for a 67 shows the 12 volt feed for the kickdown switch is piggybacked from the wiper motor harness. This allows the switch and solenoid to operate when the ignition key is in the accessory position, which seems odd. Not sure if the same holds true for later model years. In any event the solenoid makes an audible click when energized.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,634 Posts
Some logic needs to be inserted here. Question. Has the kickdown ever worked? If it had worked, when did it quit working? What happened just before it quit working that caused it to quit?

Without knowing the answers to those questions, anything done to get it to work is just a crap shoot.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GM man

· Registered
Joined
·
7,634 Posts
You mentioned a TransGo shift kit. When was it installed? Did the kickdown still work after that install?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update: i traced back all wiring. There are 2 tan wires and a larger orange wire that feed into a black male/ female connector. Apparently there was a loose connection as i now have 12 volts to the pedal switch and to the trans solenoid. I hear the clicking when key is placed in the accessory position. I have not test driven yet do to poor weather. there were no apparent shorts or wire damage that i could find. Thanks again for your help.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top