[Old fat bald guy]

getting ready to take the body off the frame on the '66........ how did you guys do it?

I am making a boom for my cherry picker and extending the side and front leg extensions for stability. I am making brackets to mount to the upper and lower front door hinge mounts and using chains and spreader bars to keep the chains from triangulating and damaging the roof, but I am having some different (bad?) thoughts about where and how to attach the body at the rear...... any thoughts?

 

[john5469]

Heres where I used straps to lift off

.

 

[Old fat bald guy]

thanks, but my quarters are still on after a 3rd search in the forum I found this thread.......
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474089&highlight=remove+body+frame

......looks like I'll use the seat belt mounts

 

[Tod74]

Best user name ever!!!

 

[Tod74]

I used a cherry picker. Hooked to bumper bolts in back...raised it a few feet put blocks under it, moved picker to front hooked onto bolts in upper cowl on corners where fender bolts picked up put blocks under then to the back and back yo front etc

 

[Alan F]

I'm considering taking the body off the frame on my current project. I only have one engine hoist. However I was thinking about using a high lift jack on the front by making a plate to go across the front body mounts.

 

[rubadub]

I use three cherry pickers, but these pictures show how I hook up the chains and lift bars. You can do it with one picker, but three pickers will let you raise and set it by your self very slowly and safely.

Click on this http://www.1969supersport.com/lift.html

Rob

 

[CoolBlueGlow]

I picked up the front with a cherry picker and chain hooks in the front body mount boxes. I picked up the back with a 10,000 lb rated nylon ratchet strap passed through the wheel wells. As soon as I lifted it about a foot, I stuck a 4x4 in the wheel houses, across the body, ran a second ratchet strap through there, and took over lifting with the second strap. I hooked it to the ceiling in my shop, which was braced with a temporary column, placed near each ratchet strap's lift point. I used two pieces of 4" schedule 40 PVC for the support column, because they were handy. 4" Sch40 PVC has a compression yield strength of 800 lb. per 10' section in vertical compression. Plenty for this particular application.

Worked great, not much $

Note that the rear of the 66 body is not that heavy. When It came time to put the body back on the frame, my two reasonably fit teenage sons were able to set the rear of the body back on the frame. This was while the front was suspended in the same way it had been removed, eight years prior.

 

[Old fat bald guy]

I was thinking of something like this but was trying to figure out what to do on the rear for mounting

Thanks for the input guys, I now have many more options to think about (wait, is that a good thing or a bad thing? lol)

 

[Alan F]

I was thinking of something like this but was trying to figure out what to do on the rear for mounting

Thanks for the input guys, I now have many more options to think about (wait, is that a good thing or a bad thing? lol)

Oooh! I like that appliance. I would think you could hook it up to the trunk brackets OR run inside to the rear seat belt anchors. I'm going to see about building one of those for my picker.

 

[Old fat bald guy]

Oooh! I like that appliance. I would think you could hook it up to the trunk brackets OR run inside to the rear seat belt anchors. I'm going to see about building one of those for my picker.

I was going to have the "H" rotated 90 degree's so the long bars went across the car instead of with the car....... I don't know why I was thinking that way, maybe when I first saw this type of lift that's the way they had it.

I bought 2 casters that match my pickers casters and picked up two 10' pcs of steel tubing so I will use the front tubes on the sides to stabilize it side to side and use the longer pcs I bought (and installed the new casters) for the front so they will actually be poking out under the other side of the car. I have the car on wheel dollies so when the body is lifted all I need to do is roll the chassis out sideways and not have to move the picker...... something about 1000 lbs of steel swinging that high in the air unsettles me LOL

 

[Alan F]

I was going to have the "H" rotated 90 degree's so the long bars went across the car instead of with the car....... I don't know why I was thinking that way, maybe when I first saw this type of lift that's the way they had it.

I think it's stronger the way that it's shown.

 

[71'bu]

I just used my engine hoist in the front, then used a floor jack and a 4x4 and 2x4 for the rear. worked real well

 

[Andy69]

I used one shop crane. I moved it from front to back to lift it enough to get a 4x4 under both ends. Then I discovered that with the back supported just in front of the rear wheel wells, I could tip it up by hand by pushing down on the tail panel while my lovely assistant put another cinderblock under the front 4x4. Then I used the shop crane to lift the back. Lather rinse repeat until it's high enough to get the chassis out.

 

[Old fat bald guy]

Lather rinse repeat

Andy, did you forget the 3rd word in my user name?

 

[silver back]

I used 4x4 the length of the rockers. jacked the body up at the balance point (behind the back of door and front of w-well) . than slid another set 4x4 between the frame and 1st set of 4x4 (make the length around a 2 ft. wider than the body) .than add a 3rd set of 4X4 under the 2nd. running the length of the of the rockers. then you can jack the car up as high as u want. this way you wont distort your quarters. I put it on jack stands. pulled the rear springs and rolled the frame out the front. easy and cheap