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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok guys. I've searched high and low on the site and can't really find an answer. So here's the deal.

I've got a Tremec T56 mated to my '72 402 BBC, with McLeod Racing Pro street clutch and flywheel (both part numbers given to me by McLeod tech so I know they are correct). I installed the transmission last May and a few months after driving it sparingly I noticed that it's hard to get it into gear when I cruise to a stop. So basically I have to shift into 1st and hold the clutch in while stopping. I can pull it out of gear after stopped and sometimes it will go back into first easy, but other times I can't pull it out of gear at all OR if I do, I can't get it to go back into 1st without putting it into 5th, then 4th or 3rd first. I bled the clutch master cylinder, based on instructions from other posts, and put Dot 5 fluid in, thinking the fluid may be getting too hot from the headers. I re-routed the line from the slave to master cylinder and have about 5" clearance from the header. At this point, I'm at a loss. The T56 manual says this problem may be related to synchronizers being mis-aligned or something.

Has anyone else experienced a problem like this? If so, what did you have to do? Thanks for the help.:beers:
 

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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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clutch not releasing completely? does it have a bottom cover you drop to get a feeler gauge in there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ita got a housing around the master cylinder that I can remove...but nothing else.
 

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If you remove the slave cylinder @ the bellhousing, the clutch fork shouldn't relieve tension. In other words, the hydraulics should not have any preload on the fork. Their is no adjustment in the hydraulics, you'd have to drop the trans and adjust the pivot ball.
 

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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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Jordans issue seems to be the opposite, clutch not releasing completely. Like there's not enough travel in the slave. Or maybe way too much travel.

Is it a hydraulic throwout bearing or does it have a slave cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's got a slave cylinder. I'm using a stock master/slave cylinder setup. I've noticed that since I bled it, there's maybe two or three inches of pedal travel from clutch engagement, when rpm starts to drop off, to the floor. Which seems way less than the 9/16" (I think that's the spec) of pushrod travel into slave cylinder that is supposed to be there. My buddy has the same hydraulic setup on his LS1 and there's way more travel, but that may be an engine difference thing. Just seems like the clutch should be engaging earlier when I push the pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TooCool, what do you mean by "metallic"? The pilot bushing I got was from O'Reilly for a T56 input shaft...I don't recall what type or grade of metal it was.
 

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The clutch throw adjustment just needs to be corrected to fully push the clutch lever far enough to release the clutch. The clutch disc is still lightly contacting the pressure plate and driving it with more force than the synchros in the tranny can overcome at a stop. May need to rebleed the system and/or make mechanical changes to the mechanism to get full travel at the throw out bearing. FWIW, Ed
 

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The pilot bushings that are metallic seem like when they get hot hold on to the input shaft of the transmission not letting the trans come to a stop as long as the engine is turning.
I bought mine at NAPA who carried both, a regular and heavy duty. A magnet stuck to the regular one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll do some checking based on the feedback and hopefully that will solve the problem. Hopefully I don't have to pull the transmission just to change out the pilot bushing, but if that's what has to be done then so be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok guys. I replaced and bled the slave cylinder. Then I checked rod travel length at the pedal. I adjusted the position about 3/4 in down to achieve more movement. Obviously this caused a bit of an angle into the master cylinder. Now my clutch pedal only seems to move a few inches and its still hard to put into gear from a dead stop. I purchased a replacement master cylinder. Before I break it open and install it, does anyone think my current m/c is the issue or could it be my TOB or something else inside the tyranny? Thanks, Jordan
 

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if it has a regular TO bearing and fork, what's the travel at the tip of the fork? Should be the same for mechanical and hydraulic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tom,
The TOB came with my clutch (Mcleod Street Pro). The fork came with the transmission. I'm assuming it's a stock fork. Could it be an issue of the TOB needing to move more/less than the fork is moving? If so, would I need to replace the fork? Thanks.

Jordan
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The clutch is Mcleod StreetPro (p/n 75124), the flywheel is Mcleod 168 tooth steel flywheel (p/n 460130). TOB came with clutch kit. Pilot bushing was purchased from O'reilly (not sure what brand...Dorman maybe?). Sometimes, after driving for a bit, even with clutch pedal to the floor, and trans in 1st, if I let off brake, I'll start to roll at idle...indication of clutch not releasing...does my master cylinder have an internal leak, allowing fluid to pass through/around pressure disc?
 
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