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Hey guys. Hoping to get started up again on my LSA/4L80e swap into my 1972 Chevelle and now its time to start addressing some needed suspension components. First, this isn't a race car and it'll never see the track. Its a weekend cruiser that'll have too much HP than it needs. Prolly be pushing 650 rwhp so it'll be an animal on the street. Since dropping the motor in, its obvious the current spring/shocks won't work (need to be replaced anyways). The car sits up a good inch higher than it did w the old 1995 LT1 in it. Front end has all new Moog bushings, ends and ball joints in. I have a 1.25" UMI sway bar upfront. All new body bushings in place also. In back, new 9" QP rear with boxed lowers and planning on getting adjustable uppers to help w pinion angle. I wanna get the stance w this car right. I don't like the 2" drop the most go for, I'm more of a fan of a 1" drop. What you recommend for a shock/spring setup? Coilovers would be cool but that gets pricey in a hurry. Rear bar is something I'm also researching. I would like for my car to have some control, if possible. Thanks!
 

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1964 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4 door
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Pull the front springs, place standing on the floor, measure from the floor up to 1/2" from the top of the spring, mark it, cut that portion off, paint bare metal, reinstall. 1" drop achieved.

There's a video on youtube by Global West Suspensions, our cars have a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio however you want to view it. Whatever you take off the free standing height of the coil will result in 2x the drop @ the wheel/tire.

So you want a 1" drop, remove 1/2" off the coil.

Good luck!

If you like the way the suspension is now, don't change it, just make it work. I'm running KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on my 64 with aftermarket front and rear a-arms. I like them, they give a great ride cruising around and don't do too bad in the curves.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pull the front springs, place standing on the floor, measure from the floor up to 1/2" from the top of the spring, mark it, cut that portion off, paint bare metal, reinstall. 1" drop achieved.

There's a video on youtube by Global West Suspensions, our cars have a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio however you want to view it. Whatever you take off the free standing height of the coil will result in 2x the drop @ the wheel/tire.

So you want a 1" drop, remove 1/2" off the coil.

Good luck!

If you like the way the suspension is now, don't change it, just make it work. I'm running KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on my 64 with aftermarket front and rear a-arms. I like them, they give a great ride cruising around and don't do too bad in the curves.
I can give that a shot but I'm def willing to buy springs/shocks if necessary. I think the fronts are rears are Moogs and possible El Camino ones. Shocks are KYBs. Both were installed in 1998. So a long time ago! Lol. I wouldn't mind a more firmer feel than I had before. I'm sure just with the steering upgrades (along with JGC box), it'll drive alot diff.
 

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Personally I would just purchase a set of the Viking double adjustable coil overs and ditch the spring/shock setup. You can set the height wherever you want it to be fairly quickly. Plus, they are much easier to install than a set of factory type springs. I would probably go with the 450 pound springs if it is just going to be a cruiser.

If you order the kit, be sure to get it with the thrust bearing and spanner wrenches. And if you wait until a holiday weekend (next one will probably be Labor Day), you will get 10% off and free shipping.

https://www.umiperformance.com/home...ront-coil-over-kit-double-adjustable-bearing/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Personally I would just purchase a set of the Viking double adjustable coil overs and ditch the spring/shock setup. You can set the height wherever you want it to be fairly quickly. Plus, they are much easier to install than a set of factory type springs. I would probably go with the 450 pound springs if it is just going to be a cruiser.

If you order the kit, be sure to get it with the thrust bearing and spanner wrenches. And if you wait until a holiday weekend (next one will probably be Labor Day), you will get 10% off and free shipping.

https://www.umiperformance.com/home...ront-coil-over-kit-double-adjustable-bearing/
Don't you need run a non-OEM LCA for a coilover?
 

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Don't you need run a non-OEM LCA for a coilover?
Nope. I ran mine on the stock lowers for several months before I upgraded them to the UMI units. If you are concerned, I am sure that you can come up with some kind of strength bracing to install in the lower arm spring pocket, but it is not necessary (at least it wasn't on my '71). The only thing you have to do is increase the size of the shock mount holes in the lower a little bit. Initially I had my bolts installed from the top side, but I switched them to the bottom side so that they looked better (no bolt threads hanging down).
 
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