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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to get a build plan in my head and also put together a planned budget. I know, don't laugh. I just want to have an idea of what the budget we'll run past should look like? Just kidding. This new to me '66 will get anything she wants, just like every other woman in my life!

I'm an old guy. No drag strip or Pro Touring unless we go to watch. But this won't be grandma's car either. BBC, 4 speed, dressed to kill (tastefully) aggressive and a firm driver that I want to handle on the street. I kind of have an old love for Cragars, but we're not locked in. 15" wheels, wider in the rear (10" I hope). Reading here has me thinking UMI upper A arms and struts up front and stock springs and arms in the rear. If I can get that size wheels under a 1" lower than stock layout I'd love to, but I am shy about thinking any lower because I really don't want headers and stuff dragging. I'm going to box the frame and rear control arms and replace all of the suspension bushings. There might also be a fast ratio steering box in there too.

Are there other changes I should look at regarding bump steer correction? Other suggestions?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Adjustable coil overs, tall upper ball joints, Umi rear adjustable uppers, Umi rear lowers with roto joints. Sway bars.
When I went to the UMI rear with full roto joints. That really smoothed the ride more noticeable then any other modifications. The alignment shop test drove after setting the specs. The guy came back and couldn’t believe how well my car drove, he said it drives better then his BMW. I think it was a m5. Every one who rides in it says they can’t believe how well it rides.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Go to UMI's website and pick a Stage, Ramey from UMI is a TC member and gives 5% disco to other members, I didn't know about TC when I started putting my 68 together, HD everything springs and it rides Very Firm....Like a Truck...That needs a Load of something in the back LOL :ROFLMAO: Maybe I'll change that someday?
 

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Ryan
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There’s a ton of ways to attack this.

I ended up piecing my suspension together. Changing things over time. My current set up is pretty killer. Currently it consists of

Front:
BMR lower arms
SPC adjustable upper arms
Tall ball joints
Stock spindle
Addco 1.25” sway bar
UMI 1” Drop Springs w/ .5” spacer
Koni adjustable shocks

Rear:
BMR adjustable upper control arms
Speed tech lowers control arms with roto joints
Speed tech roto joint rear end housing bushing
Hellwig adjustable anti sway bar
Koni adjustable shocks

I guess what I’m getting at is, find a kit with similar parts and you’ll be more than good to go.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Wow! Initially I thought Stage 3, but the adjustability of the 2.5 is really attractive.

After spending some time there and thinking about being able to fine tune stance with a spring spacer if really needed I am leaning toward the Stage 3.5.
 

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The UMI 3.5 kit doesn’t look to bad. What’s your plan for brakes? Piecing your own kit together is a possibility also.

My setup is AC delco c5/6 front rotors, calipers, pads. CPP C5/6 spindles with SKF c7 Xtracker hubs.
don’t use anything CPP, but the bare C5/6 spindles are fine. And fit factory oem corvette parts perfect. Howe tall upper ball joints .5 CPP spindle is 8.25 tall, with the ball joint it’s 8.75 tall
Howe standard lower ball joints, UMI front lower control arms, Hellwig pro touring front sway bar. Sphon swaybar links, delrin sway bar bushings, Sphon pro touring adjustable rear sway bar, SPC front upper control arms, rear is UMI adjustable uppers with roto jointsUMI lowers with roto joints. (Roto joints at all 4 points) Ridetech adjustable coilovers front/rear 550lbs front 175lbs rear spring rate.
rear is a modified Ridetech coil over kit to fit a Quick Performance Ford 9 inch. Rear brakes are C5/6 OEM with Kore3 brackets. Brakes are also a hydroboost system. Lee power steering box. Energy suspension poly body mounts. Homemade Front and rear frame braces ( kinda like the ones UMI sell)

I’ve done my suspension twice thinking I could save a little money. The adjustable shock allows you to soften/harden the spring damping. From floating boat through go cart kind of a ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You are obviously way beyond my understanding by being able to find which pieces will do what you want and save a little cash in the process. I'll probably go with someone's kit setup just for convenience and simplicity. The car already has a disk brake conversion on the front but I haven't touched wheels yet so I can't say who's they are. I flirted with converting the rears to disk as well, but I'll probably push that thought to the back burner.

I am hoping I can stay with regular vacuum booster because the car already has a new booster and master cylinder on it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am starting to think that stepping up to the Stage 4 might be a good move? It's a little more $$ than I wanted to spend on suspension, but if it locks me into a sweet spot and I won't have to be going back at it trying to upgrade again, I'd do it.

The other question I have, at this price point is it better to stay all-in-one kit, or is there benefit to piecing it together?
 

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Yes piecing it together will cost more, depending on what you buy. Piecing mine together now without the brakes would be about 6k (wasn’t that much when I did it though)
The stage 4 looks to be a good kit, stage 5 looks to add full roto’s joints. Those roto’s are magical 😂 and UMI knows it. They totally change the ride.
 

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I'm trying to get a build plan in my head and also put together a planned budget. I know, don't laugh. I just want to have an idea of what the budget we'll run past should look like? Just kidding. This new to me '66 will get anything she wants, just like every other woman in my life!

I'm an old guy. No drag strip or Pro Touring unless we go to watch. But this won't be grandma's car either. BBC, 4 speed, dressed to kill (tastefully) aggressive and a firm driver that I want to handle on the street. I kind of have an old love for Cragars, but we're not locked in. 15" wheels, wider in the rear (10" I hope). Reading here has me thinking UMI upper A arms and struts up front and stock springs and arms in the rear. If I can get that size wheels under a 1" lower than stock layout I'd love to, but I am shy about thinking any lower because I really don't want headers and stuff dragging. I'm going to box the frame and rear control arms and replace all of the suspension bushings. There might also be a fast ratio steering box in there too.

Are there other changes I should look at regarding bump steer correction? Other suggestions?

Thanks for the help!
Thinking mini tub?
 

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No, not really. If 10" wide in the rear is not doable with a 1" lower spring, then the tire will have to be more narrow. What would you anticipate?
with the mini tub here's what I put in
 

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