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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody got any ideas about how to support the body while the frame is out? I'm just about to remove the frame to make cleaning and painting easier and would like to get some ideas about supporting the body.

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Wally
Gold #67
67 malibu
 

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Well, I can tell you what I did, but you may want to think twice about copying me! I have a garage and a Sears 1.5ton floorjack. I separated the body mounts and jacked up the car until I could slide 4 x 4 timbers throught the rear wheel well and under the front near the cowl. The timbers rested on cinder block. I got timber long enough so I could clear the frame when I slid it out from under the suspended body. I was very careful not to overload one side so as to crush the blocks. I could not and did not want the body so high as to clear the rear wheels under the body, so had to leave the rear wheels off. The rear timber began to sag, so I replaced it with a 4 x 6 timber, which held up fine. After a while I got worried about the blocks crumbling and put in 4 x 4 and 4 x 6 wedges at each corner next to the cinder block and directly under the wood cross member. For two years I slid the frame under and out from the body in order to work on it. I also stripped the interior while it was up on blocks. Probably not the safest way, but it worked for me.
John Walker

[This message has been edited by jmw (edited 08-18-99).]
 

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Hey Wally,

check out Jeff's, fellow team member, site. He shows some excellent methods of supporting the body, manuevering the frame etc.

goto: http://www.athenet.net/~chevelle/

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??michael j Team Chevelle Gold #77
70 Chevelle SS396 4sp, Fathom Blue/White Stripes - Canadian built
 

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I know someone who has a real nice two post 7000 lb lift you could use, but you would have to move a bunch of blocks out of the way first


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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100
 

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I basicly did mine the same way as JMW did.
I jacked up the body at the floor braces high enough to slide in 2 pressure treated 4x4's under the rockers. While using other blocks and 4 jackstands i got the body highenough to place 4 16 gal. thinner barrels under the 4x4's 1 at each corner. then rolled the frame out. eventually I made some dollies and set the 4x4's on so I could move the body around if i had to.


Jeff
 

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I did mine the same way as JMW but the only difference was that I put bare rims on the frame to roll it in and out of the garage to work on it. When you do it this way, you do not have to jack the body up in the air as high. When it came time to put the body back on the frame, I juast called about 5 of my friends and we each grabbed a spot and set it down. I had all the glass, doors and interior out at the time.

members.aol.com/amhpd17/index.html
 

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If you have a shop that you can support it from the roof, get a couple of chain falls and support it from the trunk and another from the front area. I used a nylon sling and went around the two trunk hinges for the back and then installed two long bolts in the upper fender bolt holes (by the doors)and used another sling to hang the front. Once you lift high enough, you can roll the frame out from under and use saw horses to support better. I did mine this way and it worked great. The body was off for close to 6 months while I sandblasted, repaired and painted both the frame and body. I am installing with a T56 6-speed so going back together, I had to lower the body down several times to see what needed to be modified to fit properly. Having the chain falls allows you to lower the body just above the frame to install the bolts etc. The body easily moves independent of the frame.
If interested, I can e-mail you some pictures.
Tom

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And I thought I was the only one who used lumber and blocks! My old shop had a 25 ft. ceiling and the two chain falls worked nice, flew a 73 corvette body about 8 feet in the air. Don't have the same deal now, but the wood and block deal looks like it will work.

Thanks for the imput!

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Wally
Gold #67
67 malibu
 

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JeffK,

Your site ROCKS! Great tips and tricks abound on your site if one is astute enough to notice. I have printed each and every picture full size in color up until you got the BB. I need to get the engine installation and transmission shots now. I check it frequently. I think that with the stuff I've learned from I could eventually do my own frame off (granted I first need the space for such.)

Jeff ROCKS!

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??michael j Team Chevelle Gold #77
70 Chevelle SS396 4sp, Fathom Blue/White Stripes - Canadian built
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
JeffK, by the way my son's name is the sams as your, JeffK, the K being for Knight. Anyway, those wheel dollies look like the hot setup for the final assembly, moving the frame into the right position to remount the body.

I seem to be going backwards on this project, what started out as a simple motor swap has now moved to taking the frame out from under the body. I guess it will be next year before this baby thunders. Nice work on your page!

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Wally
Gold #67
67 malibu
 

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I'll be doing this chore in late fall. I've been told that although leaving the glass and doors on makes the body heavier, it also makes it stiffer while its off the frame.
 

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I stripped everything off, hung for 4 months and then on stands for a couple of months. The body did not bend or flex any. I think the body by itself probably only weighs about 500 - 600 pounds. Anybody else have any idea on the weight?

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Weight probably varies by body style, but I would say my '72 body weighs about 600 maybe 700 pounds. My dad and myself were able to lift one-half and the body at a time to raise it higher before i bought some chain hoists.

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JeffK ACES #01510
Team Chevelle Gold #72
[email protected]
www.athenet.net/~chevelle
 
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