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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1969 chevelle 396bbc ford 9in on 10in slicks. I want to launch it at 4500rpm. Currently it has a saginaw 4 speed which I know is not going to handle that kind of launch. I bought a super T10 super heavy duty 9310 in good condition. I was told that although this is a good trans the case will crack near the bottom. Should I run this trans or should I sell in and get a heavy duty 5 speed like a richmond? And how much is a trans like mine worth?

Thanks
 

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I ran that Richmond ST-10 a few years back. It's a decent transmission for the price, but it has its limits. The torque rating for that transmission is somewhere in the 300-330ft lbs range depending on the gearset you're using. I ran it behind a .030 454 making about 550hp and it wouldn't hang. I broke the input shaft, main cluster and a few synchros on two separate occassions. I finally gave up and switched to an automatic. I'm currently in the process of switching back over to a manual. This time I'm using a G-Force that's purpose built for high power/torque.

I think if you just want to have some fun on the street the ST-10 will be fine. However, if you plan on dead hooking a full weight Chevelle making decent power with that transmission you're in for some catastrophic parts breakage.

HTH...
 

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what is the torque rating for a m20 muncie?

300-330 seems awfully low for any transmission designed to bolt to engines that usually make no less than 325ft/lbs on average...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is there any 6 speeds that are strong enough to hold this kind of abuse?

The 9in has 3.90 gears I striped the ring and pinion on my 12 bolt. The car has a centerforce dual friction clutch and I would guess the engines around 400ft/lb and 400hp.

I was thinking about a richmond or some other solid 5 speed and a long or b&m shifter I was told by the guy who build my 9in this would hold alot of abuse. Whats the deal with this TKO and who can I buy them though? I hate doing stuff twice so I want a setup that will hold alot more power then I am currently making I'd like the car to run in the 10s on spray in the future.

thanks for the input
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the g-forces look sweet but I don't see any prices or gear ratios. I'd like something with a low first gear to make up for the loss when I changed from a 4.56 to a 3.90.

Also does anybody kown what my T10 is worth?
 

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the g-forces look sweet but I don't see any prices or gear ratios. I'd like something with a low first gear to make up for the loss when I changed from a 4.56 to a 3.90.

Also does anybody kown what my T10 is worth?
The Gforce T56 is available with three different gear sets. The lowest gear set uses a 2.98 1st. That's the set I ordered. Downside of these trannies is the cost. Plan on spending about $6,500 for the transmission, modified Lakewood scatter shield and shifter. And then you still need a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. You will also likely need to shorten your driveshaft. It adds up in a hurry. It might be overkill for what you're trying to accomplish. My current engine makes quite a bit of power, and will make another 50% or more next year. So this transmission made sense for my application.

The prices and the gearsets are on the link I sent earlier. Looks to the right hand side of the page.
 

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super t10's go from 200 to say 750 used. i bought a crippled richmond st10 a few years back for 220.00. fixed it up,and tore it up in a year behind a fairly stout 355sbc. just passed on two borg warner st10's a good one for 350,and the other neededa front bearing retainer (at least) for 250.
 

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If it's really a 9310 gear set than it has the nodular case and it won't crack or do much else bad. Yes they break but so does just about every thing else if you push it hard enough. For the price you have the best you can get if you want to spend a lot more money you can upgrade to some really good trans.
 

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how about a Jerico 4speed?
 

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ive got a t10/ st10 crash box kit thats been sitting in the garage for about 20 years. it elimenates the synchronizers(sp?). makes it so you can shift with out using the clutch. if your interested pm me.
 

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If you stick with a manual tranny but change bellhousings you must make sure that the bellhousing/input shaft/crank bearing are properly lined up.When I bought my car it was notorious for being hard on clutches and tranny breakage,its a Doug Nash 4+1 5 speed.Shortly after I bought it it took the center clean out of a fairly new Centerforce clutch,right after that some teeth chipped off of a main gear.I eventually found out that the Lakewood bellhousing had never been properly lined up,I always wondered why the trans went into place so hard ! After getting it lined up the way it should have been all along it made a big difference,no more blown clutches or broken parts,and it also shifts and goes into gear easier.I've got a slightly modified Hurst Inline shifter to row the gears with,its a bit noisy over 4000 RPM,but it doesent bother me !!
Guy
 

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Does your ST10 have an iron midplate? That part makes a big difference in the strength of the iron case st10's. I was told that first gear and the cluster try to push apart and the tooth engagement would become less with the aluminum plate. There is also a trick to take out the first gear syncro and put a thicker spacer infront of the rear bearing in the midplate. This makes first gear full tooth engagement. Only draw back is driving it on the street with no syncro'd first gear.

The Jerico ST10's have a longer first gear on the cluster. I have a cluster sitting on the shelf in the garage because I couldn't find someone to machine off the .200 to fit in an iron case. The Jerico's have full tooth engagement in first and still have the syncro.
 

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Copied from another post:

Brandon,

I have talked to Brian at S-K Speed (the guy who built my tranny) has told me that a Super T-10 prepped like mine (2.64 / 1.75 / 1.33 /1.00 gearset, 9310 high nickel gears,modified syncros, nodular iron main case and nodular iron mid-bearing plate) would add 50-60% more strength to the transmission. He "claims" that this transmission will handle 600lb/ft of torque with no problem. I know that this depends on a lot of different variables but he has guys using them at the strip, with big blocks, N2O and slicks (off the line).

Brian told me that this tranny is the "strongest" OEM type transmission for a street/strip GM car. "In his opinion", a Super T-10 built like this is stronger than the new M-22 with the AG Supercase. To get anything stronger he says you have to go to a racing transmission like a Jerico or G-Force.

I myself am running a solid roller cammed 550HP 454 (an estimate) and have used a 150 shot of N2O with Hoosier QTP's (on the street) and have had no issue with my tranny.
 

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With a 5 spd 1:1 5th I found that the ratio drop between gears does not shock the tires as much but you dont get the over drive option.
 

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But with the 1-1 fifth gear you can run a taller rear gear,I currently have a 3:1 but am planning on switching to a 2.75:1 this year,this should put me at app 2500 rpm on the highway at cruising speed.
Guy
 
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