I've had good luck with both, but Summit doesn't charge for shipping (just a small handling charge) and JC Whitney does. Also, Summit ships UPS ground, so you get your parts in 2-3 days. Whitney ships US Mail, so you get your parts in 1-2 weeks. Von
I have dealt with Summit for 12 years and of all the mail order places of ANY type I have to rank their service the best. The only complaint I have ever had is it is hard to get through to them sometimes.
Depends on what you're working on. If you want performance parts and willing to pay for first quality parts, Summit or Jegs will ship free with free phone call and maybe no taxes. On the other hand if you're working on something unusual, JC Whitney sometimes has parts that can't be found elsewhere. I restored and old Jeep a couple years ago with a fiberglass body and the parts I got from Whitney were plenty good. Pay for phone call and shipping though and that can run into money on some things. tom
Thank you to everyone!
My need in general is to replace the rear quarters without having to pay through the nose(ie:Year One or Original Parts Group). I'm definitely not going to be able to afford NOS quarters, but I'm not going to waste my limited resources on crappy parts either. If there is happy medium, I'd appreciate knowing where.
Per JC Whitney-
Replacement rear quarters (from door to bumper, from bodybend down) for my 2dr only weigh in a 11.5 pounds each, cost $99 per side, and ship by postal, not truck.
This sounded a little odd to me,any opinions?
Thank you, everyone, for your input.
As both a Corvette and Malibu owner, I am very picky about the parts I pick. This is because of bad experiences that I've had with unnamed parts companies (cough, JC Whitney!). I know that Year One and Original Parts Group might cost a little more now, but trust me when I say that you'll be paying a lot more in the long run if you go with the cheapo sheetmetal now. I am going through a major headache with the Malibu right now, because the joker who owned it before me decided to go the easy route. Now I have to go back and fix what was fudged up. 99 percent of the time you are better off paying a little more for the better quality. That's just my opinion. It's up to you whether you want to end up redoing it again five years down the road, when you could have done it right the first time around. Hope that helped. Good Luck.
I have had good experiences with both J.C. Whitney and Summit.
Pick what you buy from any supplier - "normal parts" especially name brand are a safe bet, but some parts especially body parts will vary in quality - Normally "you get what you pay for"
As the response is pretty consistent, I'll probably only use JCW for the small stuff.
As for the body panels...?
What do you mean by "Licensed" 1/4s?
And how do I know whether or not the 1/4s I do get are licensed, other than by the word of the seller? This isn't a restore. I'm just trying to clean up what looks like the results of a bazillion passes on a gravel drag strip. The 1/4s, trunk pan and wells are worse off than swiss cheese. Do I really need to stay with "licensed" parts to get a good fit or can I get away with using repro parts from a reputable source?
Thanks for the advice.
I've been pondering the cheap now and expensive later route and feel compelled now to bite the bullet and and just do it right, once and be done with it.
So when I do finally get these things in place and get a good paint job on the whole thing, how do I maintain the quality of the new rears? This is a daily driver, and like any young male, I'll line up my overweight monster against anything for the fun of it.
Tire shrapnel does not appeal to me at all. Mud flaps are out of the question. So what do I do aft of the wheel opening to ensure a relatively good appearance for years to come?
Rob, touch up paint, and regular washing and waxing will keep them in good shape for a while.
I've used both suppliers, the thing with Summit is, you know the brand name of the parts you're going to recieve, before you buy them. JCWitney leaves a little to be desired in this area, although their quality illustrations will hint as to who makes the tool or part. I do recommend and use them for all of my exhaust pipe needs, though. 16gage aluminized mandrel bends can be hard to find, it used to be all 18gage plain steel bends, everywhere. The fit of a custom system can't be beat, especially when you have to clear an upgraded suspension or fuel system.
As far as 11lb 1/4's, I'd probably shy away, they should weigh a little more, especially if that's with a protective cardboard box wrapped around it. I have a friend who manages a recycling yard, and he can get just about any sheetmetal you could want or need, but he admits it's from Taiwan, and kind of flimsy. Just a thought. Darren
Rob , You can have the bottom of your qtrs. stoneguarded when you have it painted. It can go over or under the paint and is a flexible (sorta) coating that prevents (up to a point) chips in the paint. If you go off road it won't help, but day to day its pretty good.
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