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I finally purchased the core support for my 72 Skylark. While I was there, I figured it was a good opportunity to replace the headlights.

https://www.topgearautosport.com/169834/buick-skylark-1962-1972-led-headlights-conversion-kit

My question involves mounting the headlights. When I align them to I just point the headlights for the high beams higher than the low beams?

Other than the obvious soldering is there anything else I should know?

Thanks!
Most states that do inspections the headlights are tested at a specific distance. The lights aim toward the passenger side slightly so not to blind on coming traffic. As far as height if you have a flat area to park, stay back about 20 feet from a wall and set your lights. Low beams should hit about low waist high with high beams maybe a foot higher. Your'e best to have a garage set them for you..
 

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If you search online, there are some good guides on headlight aiming. Basically you make alignment marks on your garage door or wall that you reference as you adjust the beams. Both the hi/low and hi beams are higher when on (assuming the LED bulbs include a hi/low on the outer lights).

jim
 

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Thank you guys! This is what I needed to know.

I have aligned headlights in the past, but never a low beam then high beams separately. I just wanted to make sure.
 

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Hi guys,

New question. As I am doing my research on converting the headlights I discovered something.

I noticed it was common to have both pairs of headlights on all the time. My thought was to wire one set for low beams and the other for high beams.

Is there any particular reason other than preference why folks are choosing to have all four headlights on? My concern is draw on the system, but any input is welcome.

Also, I am starting to realize that this conversion my not be direct. There are conversion harnesses out there that need a relay? What do I have to know in order to wire in these H4 plugs?



Thank you!
 

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The outer lights are a high and low beam. The inner are high only. When the low beam is on just the outer lights are on and when in hi beam all 4 are on.

There should be no soldering involved unless you are doing something fancy.
 

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The outer lights are a high and low beam. The inner are high only. When the low beam is on just the outer lights are on and when in hi beam all 4 are on.

There should be no soldering involved unless you are doing something fancy.
My preference is to not do anything fancy. I drove at night with the sealed headlights a few times and they weren't bad, I am more thinking along the lines of serviceability with this conversion.

So I don't need to purchase H4 plugs?

What about those special harness with relays I am seeing around?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30815
 

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Thanks Kirk.

So it is correct that I need to update the harness for the headlights.

What I don't understand is why are they adding a fuse in and not using the fuse that is part of the original harness? My thinking is to purchase the relays and the plugs and solder them in just to keep things simpler.
 

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Thanks Kirk.

So it is correct that I need to update the harness for the headlights.

What I don't understand is why are they adding a fuse in and not using the fuse that is part of the original harness? My thinking is to purchase the relays and the plugs and solder them in just to keep things simpler.
Here is my understanding/take on the Painless # 30815 or 30814 Harness Kits based on reading their Instructions

Not necessary to upgrade the Old/Original Front Lamp Harness as it is just giving the Signal from the Dash Light Switch

The Painless Harness is separate from the Forward Lamp Harness and the Engine Harness

Figure where you want to put the Relays & Fuse so that the Wires will reach all 2 or 4 HL

Then put the 1 Red Wire for a E Power Source to Battery + Post ....
Then find a place to put the 1 Black Wire for Ground Source

Unplug the 2 or 4 Old Female Headlight Plugs that plug into the Back of the HL Bulbs
plugin the 2 or 4 New Female Painless Harness HL Plugs to the Back of the HL Bulbs

Plugin 1 of the Old/Original high/low beam Female Connectors from the Headlight Bulbs/Front Lamp Harness
to the New Painless Harness Male Connector that looks like a Female but is a Male
that will give you the connection for the signal from the Dash Light Switch when you Turn on the Lights

Hope I have explained it clear enough
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again Kirk,

Yes, I did not look at this as an additional harness, but we are saying the same thing in a different language.

I guess that harness is for someone who has a different system, a damaged or incomplete harness, or a system much older than the one in this car.

So all I am going to do is buy four of those ceramic heavy duty H4 plugs and solder them in.

I am trying the best I can to avoid that wheel debacle I got myself into when I just assumed.
 

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Marco by NOT doing the Painless H4 HeadLight Conversion Upgrade those new LED Head Lights will not be very Bright

Since you are using the same Route of the E Power that your old/original HLs used
which is from the Battery to the Dash then back to the Head Lights which will Lower the amount of E Power ( less than 12 Volts ) going to the Head Lights

The Painless Harness supplies Direct E Power to the Head Lights thru it's Relays
thus the Head Lights receive a Higher amount of E Power ( 12 Volts )
 

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Thanks Kirk, I understand now what is going on.

There is an issue of parasitic loss of voltage through the system and as a result the headlights will not get all of the current they need.

This company called MAD electrical has some interesting solutions for these types of problems. They are also significantly cheaper than Painless.

It will be a while, but I will report back on my solutions.

Thanks again for your help guys! It is very much appreciated.
 

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Thanks Kirk, I understand now what is going on.

There is an issue of parasitic loss of voltage through the system and as a result the headlights will not get all of the current they need.

This company called MAD electrical has some interesting solutions for these types of problems. They are also significantly cheaper than Painless.

It will be a while, but I will report back on my solutions.

Thanks again for your help guys! It is very much appreciated.
As Kirk has said, the relays make a HUGE difference. You do not need the MAD relays or any packaged products. Simply buy the relays online along with the ceramic plugs and you are all set. I forget what it cost me when I did the conversion a few years ago but it was in the $30 range for 2 relays, 4 plugs and a half hour of my time. It's very easy with basic electrical understanding.
 
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