[Shawn]

I have a '70 Elky and I need to remove the driver's side fender. I tried loosening the bolts with a socket wrench but it just kept slipping off and actually started to wear the corners of the bolt down. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get them free? I got the other fender off before but the bolt snapped (I don't care what happens to the bolt just as long as I get the fender off) because the bolt and the nut-clip-thing rusted together.
Also, the bolt in the cowl area was snapped off by some other owner; how would I deal with this? Thanks.
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1970 Chevy Custom El Camino aka Kaileigh
Built on: November 25, 1969 in Baltimore
Green Mist #45 w/Green Vinyl Top
350ci/300HP 4bbl Small Block
Factory Dual Exhaust and Rally Wheels
www.dreamelectric.com

[This message has been edited by Shawn (edited 11-16-99).]

 

[Mr. D]

Vicegrips and WD-40!!

Have fun

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Mr. D
72 454 El Camino
68 RS/SS Camaro
73 RS/LT/Z28 Camaro
99 Firebird TA WS-6 A4


[This message has been edited by Mr. D (edited 11-16-99).]

 

[Rich-L79]

Your best bet is to drill through the head of the bolt and through the shaft of the bolt. Use a high quality, high carbon steel drill bit the same size as the shaft of the bolt. It will take quite a while to drill through to remove the head and longer yet to clean the hole where the shaft is. Once drilled through you can tap the hole clean for a new bolt. Be careful not to break off the tap in the hole because you will never be able to drill through that!

There is no easy solution.

You can get the to back side of the bolt to soak it with penetrating oil but it rarely does any good.

 

[DG]

If the fender will need work, you can use a grinder to grind the head off the lower bolt. You may hit the fender, so be careful. The others you are going to have to tap & drill. I'd soak 'em every day with penetrating fluid for at least a week or so.

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)

 

[drptop70ss]

Take the inner fender off with the fender as one piece, then deal with the broken bolts/cage nuts. This happens all the time.

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70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
55 chevy prostreet

 

[Shawn]

Well, the fenders are shot so I wouldn't care what happens to them (I've never seen so much bondo in one place!!). I'm just a little limited on tools so there is only certain things I can do. Grinding the head off is a good idea.

 

[Slime]

Are you using a 6 point socket? This should stop the slip. But grinding may be the best. Good luck Slime

 

[Shawn]

No, im using 12 point but I haven't tried the 6 point socket yet because I assumed even if it did stay on there the bolt wouldn't budge.

 

[Randy Mosier]

Do you have any metric six point sockets? A 14mm will fit a little tight on a bolt with a 9/16th head. That might help. Also, it is time to invest in 1/2 inch drive sockets and ratchets. The extra size alone gives you more leverage.

 

[283v8]

My normal procedure is:

Soak them with penetrating oil.
Try the 12 point socket till it slips off.
cuss
Heat the bolt, try socket again, it slips.
cuss, CUSS
bigger wrench, 6 point socket, slip, mash knuckles
REALLY cuss
If the entire bolt & nut assembly doesn't twist out:
drill or grind off the bolt head and worry with the stub later

Fender bolts are no fun after 20+ years.


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Gotta have a Chevy !In Durham N.C.
Why is there never enough time or money to do it right the first time, but ALWAYS enough to do it over?
Make it look the way you like it, forget what the other guys say!




[This message has been edited by 283v8 (edited 11-17-99).]

 

[gearhead]

I had exactly this problem on both sides of my '67--it was the bottom bolt next to the door-, the one w/ the head facing the ground--a real pain to get at.

I used a Sawzall w/ a 6" (might have been 8") blade--that's long enough to allow the blade to flex and bend enough to cut the bolt head off--was very easy. Cut through in less than 30 seconds