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thinking of rebuilding front suspension. don't want the tubular arms but really want to keep relatively stock appearing. looking at replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings with the following.
I was also thinking of using moog lower ball joints and upper ball joints that are 1/2" taller. never drove a car with delrin and realize it won't be as smooth as the stock rubber. also does anyone manufacture a rear drag style anti roll bar that doesn't hang so low beneath the pumpkin? thank you.
 

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Looks like nice bushings for sure. As for the tools they sell to install the bushing, I could make that and save $100.
 

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I have Delrin bushings, it's not that bad for NVH. Their claim of a "huge improvement" in handling is a bit of an exaggeration, but it certainly helps. The tall ball joints is a very good upgrade.

I have the Helwig frame mount rear anti roll bar and I have it set so it doesn't hang below the pumpkin. It kind of surrounds it, but not in a way to prevent me from getting a jack under the pumpkin either.
 

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I have those bushings in my wagon, they work well. Also did the .050 taller upper ball joints and off set cross shafts...all works well....
 

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For you guys using stock control arms esp 64 -67 cars are you able to get enough positive caster. or do you have to shim excessively
 

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Whats the reason for the taller ball joints? I don't mean to sound stupid, but I never had any of this fancy stuff on my race car. I used the kit that you bought out of the Super Chevy magazine ad for PST or PSC or whatever it was back in the mid 90's. That was the extent of my front end with stock control arms. No fancy alignment pieces or bushings. I went 1.20's in 60' and the car carried the wheels every pass and it never had an issue with going straight or breaking stuff landing.
 
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i agree with Ray no need for .9” tall uppers in a drag car esp a fast one they will give you more travel but fast cars dont need more travel Tall uppers are mostly used to change thecamber curve in auto cross cars maybe .5 uppers may help some cars Good bushings that dont bind and long travel coil springs is all you need with good adj shocks aftermarket arms maybe if your stock ones dont give you enough caster
 
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I like the tall upper ball joints. Helps keep camber at 0 thru range. I did make suspension limiters thru upper arm to stop on bushing in frame.
Afco 80/20 shocks.
H&R Parts rear sway bar works great. No air bags needed. Good double adjustable rear shocks.
I used del a lum bushings by global west. They have grease fittings.

In another car I used stock rubber bushings and offset upper control arm shafts.
just don’t overtighten either style.
 

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Make sure you use tall ball joints, .5 lower and .9 upper..
I was told not to use the .090 taller in the upper with stock arms. I went with .050 upper and stock lower.
 

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Whats the reason for the taller ball joints? I don't mean to sound stupid, but I never had any of this fancy stuff on my race car. I used the kit that you bought out of the Super Chevy magazine ad for PST or PSC or whatever it was back in the mid 90's. That was the extent of my front end with stock control arms. No fancy alignment pieces or bushings. I went 1.20's in 60' and the car carried the wheels every pass and it never had an issue with going straight or breaking stuff landing.
I was told it keeps the tires from leaning in when the front end is up. Mine are always straight.
 

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thinking of rebuilding front suspension. don't want the tubular arms but really want to keep relatively stock appearing. looking at replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings with the following.
I was also thinking of using moog lower ball joints and upper ball joints that are 1/2" taller. never drove a car with delrin and realize it won't be as smooth as the stock rubber. also does anyone manufacture a rear drag style anti roll bar that doesn't hang so low beneath the pumpkin? thank you.

if you are going to go Delrin, go with Global West.
 

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you absolutely want a .9 tall upper for drag racing in my opinion. really helps fix the camber sweep and bump steer.
With stock arms? I was told to not use those except with aftermarket arms..
 

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With stock arms? I was told to not use those except with aftermarket arms..
Yes, with stock arms. it stops/corrects the camber sweep, which in turns stops the change in toe.

I tried a bump steer kit alone to fix my bump steer during wheel stands, it took the .9 tall ball joint to get it as good as it's going to get.


the tall ball joint just essentially turns the stock height spindle into a "tall" spindle and you get that benefits of that.
 
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