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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
John, tried everything you told me and also what Mark told me and I still have the problem of right turn signal not working with lites on. It shines bright but no flash.rechecked all grounds, changed flashers even tho I put in new ones when I redid the dash and wiring. They work without lites on.Flashes in dash and rear signal when lites are off.Any other ideas or what else am I missing? :confused: Thanks for any help. Roy
 

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did you have the front apart also
do the front lights work properly
maybe a socket has a problem (bad connection or a short)
check all of your parking lights, side markers, and turnsignal bulbs and sockets
also all of their grounds front and rear
 

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Tom's right. Pop the right front and rear lens off or pop the sockets out of the housing one at a time.
With everything on, select the right turn signal.
Touch the bulb base with a wire. Right where the bulb base meets the glass.
Touch the other end of the wire to a known good ground.
See if the bulb starts flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tom and John, I had the front turn signal all apart and cleaned everything up. The front lights all work. The left front marker lite doesn't work andnoticed the socket was rusty so I need to replace that. I'll try what you said John and see what happens. I'll go by Dan's Garage and get a marker lite socket and replace it tomorrow also. Is there any way that the socket in the turn signal can move in any way so maybe the bulb isn't connecting to socket contacts correctly? Thanks you guys for giving me something else to try. I'll let you know how this goes.Thanks again Tom and John. Roy
 

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I know they are not supposed to fit but
are you sure there is not a single filament bulb in a two filament bulb socket
I've seen it before and wanted to make sure you have covered that
sometimes by dumb luck they will go in and stay if the socket has some play
 

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Part of the problem may be is there is no ground wire coming out of the socket. I know this to be true on the front sockets. Not sure on the rears without checking. The front sockets rely on the bumper for ground. 70 was the last year they did it this way. Malibu Jerry soldered on a ground lead on the outside of his front sockets and ran it up to the core support to stop this from happening.
Some rear sockets loose the ground connection right at the socket. The crimp joint goes bad over time. I've taken rear sockets from later year cars (80s GM) and sealed the backside with RTV for bumper mounted rear sockets. Soldered the leads and used shink tubing over the joints. Cleaning rusty sockets doesn't seem to work for me.
 

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One more thing you might check; it's simple and stupid, but it happened to me: Make sure the harness is not pinched as it runs across the radiator support. When I reassembled the front end of my car, the harness got smashed between the fender and the core support. It shorted out the front turn signals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for another place to look Jim. Been real busy last few days so haven't had time to revisit my problem. Plan on it after work this week some time. Thanks again guys,I'll let you all know what I find. :D
 

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hey guys, thought i could tag along on this problem. Am having the same virtual prob with my 68 malibu. Just saw this ad and had to reply. T/S work w/ lights off and the right side stays lit with lights on. Meaning front and rear bulbs and dash indicator. Just cleaned grounds on both sides of front that go into the body. Checked bulbs on right side for proper type. 1157 dual filament. Pretty sure this is the right number. Also the rear right socket is a metal type with an external ground connector. Re grounded the terminal. The left rear is a totaly different type. Plastic with only a metal tab on the side for ground. Am going back out to try grounding said socket next. Went through the wiring diagram and could only see two lighting common grounds. Both in the front next to the rad support. Did I miss any??? also just tested the rear grounds, good. Then noticed that the indicator stays lit even with the turn signals off... Just started raining so I have to stop. Will check the light switch first chance I get
 

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Hi guys, I'm new to your site for a login but have been reading it for quite sometime. I wanted to throw my .02 cents in on this one. Having spent 35 + hours rewiring the entire dash on my '70 I had the exact same problem with my right turn signal when I was finished. It plagued me for nearly a week before I found the solution. I don't know if it's been covered but I'll tell you what I had to do. I ended up taking a 10 gauge wire (the biggest I had at the time) and attaching it from my steering column at the middle and running it to the e-brake bracket. I didn't have a good ground between the column and the rest of the car even though I thoroughly checked all grounds with a DVOM. Trust me, I would have never found it except that I had the column unbolted from the bottom of the dash and was about to give up when I pulled myself up from the ground by grabbing the steering wheel and as I did the shaft under the hood ground against the power brake booster and the right turn signal worked!!

True Story. Good luck.
 

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Originally posted by Red 70 SS454:
I still have the problem of right turn signal not working with lites on. It shines bright but no flash.
Roy, the bulb may appear to be shining bright but is not drawing full current. Disconnect the turn signal switch, run a FUSED jumper to the steering column area, connect an amp meter in series and "juice" one bulb at a time, record the current. Repeat with the headlights on. You will find one has low current.

Think about how a duel filiment bulb works. Put 12v across t/s bulb and the light comes on. Put 12v across the running light and it comes on. Now what if there was no ground? The turn signal would get 12v but could not ground on the ground terminal. It would actually ground through the running light circuit via the other half of that bulb and then the rest of the running lights. This bulb would not be full brightness. According to the wiring diagram 70 has hazard flashers. Turn on the running lights AND the hazard flasher and CAREFULLY look at all bulbs. Have a friend look too. A totally open ground will actually flash the bulb OFF instead of brighter. So instead of going from dim to bright it will go from dim to off. This is because with 12v vs 12v there is no potential difference hence no current flow. You could have a resistive ground and this would not be quite this obvious but you should be able to SEE it. If not measure it.

Lt Blue:_____L turn signal ind and left front bulb
Dk Bu:_______R turn signal ind and right front bulb
Brown:______Hazard Flasher
Purple:______Directional Flasher
Yellow:______Left rear turn signal bulb
Dk Green:___Right rear turn signal bulb
White:______Stop Light switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Bowties and Chevellenut for more things to check out.Still haven't had time to get back on problem. With all the replys{which I certainly appreciate} I've got lots of things to check out. I knew the knowlegable people on this site would have lots of good ideas. Thanks to everyone that has replied to my problem. I'll post what I find out.
Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Still trying to find time to check out my TS problem. Had drainfield problems and had to put in new one. Now that's finished I'm going to get on this problem. Just wanted to let people know that I wasn't not posting my findings. Roy
 
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