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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im going to be changing my clutch again, and ordered a new flywheel.

Previously I was running a Ram 1521.
I measured the thickness of one today, from mounting flange to friction surface.
I get .866"

I ordered a centerforce 700140.
Measurement from mounting flange to friction surface:
.978"

Thats a pretty substantial difference in my book, and puts the centerforce dimensionally equal to stock.
 

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What does the CF wheel weigh? I have one here that weighs 36 lbs. Fat.

That measurement is where the whole clutch geometry sequence begins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gene,
Its advertised at 35 pounds, but I weighed myself and the wheel together on a shipping scale, and it showed it to be about 32 pounds. It then occurred to me that I could weigh it by itself on the shipping scale, and it showed 31, but I had it slightly off center to make it easier to pick up off the scale. So somewhere in that ballpark.
 

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Gene,
Its advertised at 35 pounds, but I weighed myself and the wheel together on a shipping scale, and it showed it to be about 32 pounds. It then occurred to me that I could weigh it by itself on the shipping scale, and it showed 31, but I had it slightly off center to make it easier to pick up off the scale. So somewhere in that ballpark.
So Dave the Centerforce flywheel only weighs around 31-32 lbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So Dave the Centerforce flywheel only weighs around 31-32 lbs?
Im going to double check to make sure Im not a complete dope, but thats what I remember seeing yesterday
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm trying to understand what the OP's concern is...
Flange depth for clutch hub clearance?
Total mass of flywheel?
Counter balance weight for external balance BBC?

The subject headline literally says "FLYWHEEL THICKNESS"

Thats what this thread is about. That relates to issues of fork geometry.
 

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when i switched to a ram 1521, i had to use the taller ball stud from the vette with a washer underneath it to get the correct fork angle but it wasn't too hard. also had to leave the star washers out from under the flywheel bolts to give a "safer" clearance between the clutch and the flywheel bolts. i would have preferred that the Ram flywheel would have been more dimensionally comparable to the factory flywheel, but the ram flywheel isn't junk either. just a small challenge to get in there correctly. overall, the ram flywheel and clutch was an improvement for me. just wanted to make note of this for others considering this swap. later!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
when i switched to a ram 1521, i had to use the taller ball stud from the vette with a washer underneath it to get the correct fork angle but it wasn't too hard. also had to leave the star washers out from under the flywheel bolts to give a "safer" clearance between the clutch and the flywheel bolts. i would have preferred that the Ram flywheel would have been more dimensionally comparable to the factory flywheel, but the ram flywheel isn't junk either. just a small challenge to get in there correctly. overall, the ram flywheel and clutch was an improvement for me. just wanted to make note of this for others considering this swap. later!

Sound advisory.

There is so much going on when you move away from stock. Ive got a Quicktime scatter shield with block plate... that changed the geometry. I was using a Ram 1521, which is also dimensionally different from stock. First clutch with this set up I was using the Mcleod Adjustable throw out bearing, and honestly was not a fan of the oversized slot for the clutch fork on it. Second clutch in this set up, I was using the long "truck" ball stud. While I was able to get .040 clearance of clutch release with this set up, Ive always had chatter.

Im hoping to reel some of these variables in with this new flywheel, and see what shakes out.

I really just made the post for the purpose of someone's future search. Yes the Ram is a quality piece, and comparatively "affordable" agains the centerforce, but if someone wanted a more direct replacement from stock, the centerforce is a winner in my opinion.
 

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Your finding are not abnormal. As a matter of fact this is very normal.

my GM ductile iron one was even thicker, yet the backside was hallowed out and still weighted30lbs

my aluminum one was 0.7 depth and solid and weighted 13lvs.

every flywheel manufacturer has a different depth.

In my opinion you want the disks as close the the end of splines such that you don’t twist them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Now yer tawkin'. That "issue" was never mentioned in the original post.

It was pretty clear it was about the thickness of the flywheel. It was stated in the headline. I clearly stated in the post that the centerforce is dimensionally equal to stock.

For stick shift guys, we know that the measurement from mounting flange to friction surface relates to all of the relevant geometry. Sorry if I didnt spell it out, and/ or if I misread your inquiry on this.

Edit: there is no actual "issue". It was a public service announcement for anyone searching for this information in the present or future.
 

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It was pretty clear it was about the thickness of the flywheel. It was stated in the headline. I clearly stated in the post that the centerforce is dimensionally equal to stock.

For stick shift guys, we know that the measurement from mounting flange to friction surface relates to all of the relevant geometry. Sorry if I didnt spell it out, and/ or if I misread your inquiry on this.

Edit: there is no actual "issue". It was a public service announcement for anyone searching for this information in the present or future.
Thank you!
 

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Oh, and that McLoed adjustible TO bearing, its face is much too wide to work with a CF/DF clutch. You'll get one heckuva "chiming" going on as the face of the TO bearing actually contacts the counterweights. NOT FUN! I had it set to a 1.510" height to get the geometry right, so I bought a std GM 1.500" TO bearing. ( a long one I beleive) . All is good.

I thank [email protected] Jody's Transmissions for that one! Nice to have experts to call when you really need one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh, and that McLoed adjustible TO bearing, its face is much too wide to work with a CF/DF clutch. You'll get one heckuva "chiming" going on as the face of the TO bearing actually contacts the counterweights. NOT FUN! I had it set to a 1.510" height to get the geometry right, so I bought a std GM 1.500" TO bearing. ( a long one I beleive) . All is good.

I thank [email protected] Jody's Transmissions for that one! Nice to have experts to call when you really need one!
Gene I could see how that could be; That Mcleod bearing has a big face.

I really hated the slop in the groove for the fork. It didnt have a positive hold on the fork springs... and now sits in one of my toolboxes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So Dave the Centerforce flywheel only weighs around 31-32 lbs?

Tonight I weighed a 5 pound weight on my bathroom scale and it showed 4.8 pounds.

I weighed the flywheel on the same scale and it showed 30.8 pounds.

Id say the scale is off by .2 pounds, making the flywheel 31 pounds.
 

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Tonight I weighed a 5 pound weight on my bathroom scale and it showed 4.8 pounds.

I weighed the flywheel on the same scale and it showed 30.8 pounds.

Id say the scale is off by .2 pounds, making the flywheel 31 pounds.
Thank you Dave. (y)
 

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My CF wheel for sure weighs 35 lbs. I ran it for a while. Easy tire smoke. Anyone need an internal balance wood truck flywheel?

Dave, one of my rules, NEVER ASSUME - ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK! 31 lbs is acceptable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My CF wheel for sure weighs 35 lbs. I ran it for a while. Easy tire smoke. Anyone need an internal balance wood truck flywheel?

Dave, one of my rules, NEVER ASSUME - ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK! 31 lbs is acceptable.
Based on what my scale says when I stand on it, I was kinda hoping it was wrong.
 
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