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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys

I am swapping from a non tilt column to a tilt column. Somewhere I have seen some info about this process. The docs I am thinking about ncluded a lot ofcool hard to find info abuout the subtile differences in the colums from year to year/ some info on wiring and other priceless tidbit. I know about Jim Sheas information but I believe there was something else floating around cyberspace. Jims info is more oriented toward rebuilding the entire column...this info I am seeking wasmore on the point of swapping the colums.

Since I have never worked with a tilt column and I think this one I have needs a new lock tumbler I was thinking I might put the tumbler from my car into the tilt unit? Anyone know if that works? If so what does it take to do the job? If it does not swap into the tilt where can I get a tumbler / tumbler mech that will work? If the original one from my non tilt will work great but if it takes a box full of specal tools to remove it from the non tilt column well then perhaps it would just be more efficient to just buy a new tumbler.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Yes, the ign lock cyl will work, the same procedure removes/ reinstalls on both columns. IIRC, you'll have to turn the wiring connector over to plug it into the tilt column switch plugs. Sorry, no pics, maybe do another search.
 

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As Leo mentioned, the actual ign switch (on TOP of column, under the dash) can be used from your existing column. It has to be flipped over because the actuating rod (that comes down from the lock cylinder) moves in opposite directions for tilt and non-tilt columns.

Columns UP TO 1978 will interchange (A-bodies, Camaros, etc). The 78-earlier steering column shaft/coupler had splines. In 1979, the shaft/coupler changed to 2 flats for the shaft/coupler. Several years ago, we installed a tilt column from a 1978 Z28 into my son's 71 Chevelle. Perfect fit, zero modifications! BUT, about 1976, some bolts/nuts were metric, so if you use a later column with metric fasteners, save and use them (the ones I'm referring to are the 2 which attached the column to the underside of the dash).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks to both Leo and DZAUTO. Can I ask for some help again when I actually undertake this swap? Right now I am just getting my "ducks in a row" so that I understand what I am doing BEFORE I tear into something I have never worked on before. I have finally learned my lesson on doing things like that.

I assume that the procedure for removal of the lock cyl is outlined in the service manuals?

Again thanks for the help.
 

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You CANNOT use the same ignition switch between standard (non adjustable) steering columns and tilt columns. There are two kinds of ignition switches. One for standard columns the other for adjustable tilt and T&T columns. You CAN us the same lock cylinders!

When you install a tilt column with the correct tilt column ignition switch, you will need to twist the vehicle wiring harness 180 degrees in order to get it to snap into the tilt column ignition switch.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You CANNOT use the same ignition switch between standard (non adjustable) steering columns and tilt columns. There are two kinds of ignition switches. One for standard columns the other for adjustable tilt and T&T columns. You CAN us the same lock cylinders!

When you install a tilt column with the correct tilt column ignition switch, you will need to twist the vehicle wiring harness 180 degrees in order to get it to snap into the tilt column ignition switch.

Jim
Well guys can I use the same switch or not? I think we have a "failure to communicate" here in terms of the ignition switch versus the lock / tumbler assy. My conclusion is that the The Lock / Tumbler is NOT the ignition switch? Is this correct.
 

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JimL82 is correct about the switch, and you can use the ign cylinder and key from the original column. Jim as instructions on his website I think for the ign cylinder removal/installation.
 

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Before 1969 the lock cylinder and ignition switch were one part and mounted in the instrument panel. You removed the lock cylinder from the unit with the ignition key and by inserting the end of a paper clip into a small hole in the face of the lock cylinder. The ignition switch was part of this assembly but was hidden behind the instrument panel.

1969 marked the first year for the function locking steering column. Now the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition switch were separated. The lock cylinder was placed in the steering column head. The ignition switch was mounted down under the dash, on top of the steering column jacket. Also the switch tucked up into the brake support bracket and was quite inaccessable unless you dropped the steering column down from the instrument panel. (Difficult for a thief to hot wire; time consuming to service.)

Lock cylinders can be interchanged on all Saginaw columns made between 1969 and early 1979. Sometime in 1979 the lock cylinder retention method was changed. The first 10 years the lock cylinder had a metal wedge that snapped into the column housing head. Sometime in 1979 a seperate cross bolt was introduced to hold the cylinder in place. This made the ignition lock cylinder much more difficult for a thief to "slam" the cylinder out of the steering column. The 1979+ lock cylinders will not interchange back to the earlier columns.

There was one design ignition switch for standard (non-adjustable) steering columns and another switch for all adjustable (tilt as well as T&T) steering columns. Both switches operate by means of a rod the pushes and pulls on the switch through a linkage system connected to the lock cylinder. Because the linkage systems are different between standard and adjustable steering columns, the switches operate in opposite directions from each other. This also causes the electrical blades between the two ignition switches to be mirror images of each other.

Switches that are used with adjustable columns operate on a pull basis. (When you rotate your ignition key clockwise from ACC you are pulling the rod and the mechanism inside the switch up toward the driver: ACC, OFF-LOCK, OFF, RUN, START)

Standard columns operate on a push basis. (When you rotate your ignition key clockwise from ACC you are pushing the rod and the mechanism inside the switch down toward the engine.)

The vehicle wiring harness was the same regardless of the type of steering column. You mearly needed to twist the vehicle wiring harness connectors 180 degrees to make them snap into one or the other of the ignition switches.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great info Jim. I guess I was just being a little thick headed...I was confused about the info that Leo and DZ and the other guys were giving me. I never really thought about the tumbler being separated from the ignition switch. Ya have to hand it to those crafty engineers who worked for The General.

Seriously now thanks a lot Jim (and of course everyone else) this has been a very very good explanation of what is going on. I have never fooled with the post 68 cars in the area of the switch / tumbler and if you asked me I would have said that they were one piece up until I read this thread.
 

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I have complete instructions on removing and replacing the lock cylinder. It is just a little different between the two types of steering columns (standard and tilt).

Go to www.corvettefaq.com
Click on Jim Shea's Steering Papers
Click on A & F-Car Steering Papers

Scroll down to the Standard (Non-Adjustable) Strg Column Section
Download the Std Strg Column 69-76 Disassembly & Repair Paper #1
Download the Std Strg Column 69-76 Disassembly & Repair Pic #1

Then scroll further down to the Tilt (Adjustable) Steering Column Section
Download the Tilt Strg Column 69-76 Disassembly & Repair Paper #1
Download the Tilt Strg Column 69-76 Disassembly & Repair Pic #1

Jim
 

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Thanks to this thread, My problem was solved, I went to carquest and got a tilt wheel switch. I did have to trim a couple of plastic ears off of the harness. My column also had a plate welded to it where it bolted to the floor(no idea what this column came out of) I drilled out the spot welds and removed that. The ignition switch was also different. All good now....Thanks
 
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