Team Chevelle banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 72 has had a complete overhaul of the suspension. I put in new shocks, springs, bushings (polygraphite from pst) and new tires. The bodyshop sent it out for an alignment before I picked it up. Now, the car seems extremely loose. The front end wanders and it is very difficult to drive even at about 50mph. I won't even let my wife drive it yet. I have used the stock steering box and stock power steering pump and added the boxed rear control arms with the rear sway bar. The front sway bar has new bushings also. The rear sway bar came with shims but they are not installed. I was hoping with all the new bushings and everything I would have a really nice and tight driving car, but it actually is like trying to drive a john deere 4020 at about 60mph. I am not sure where to start looking.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,065 Posts
Idler arm, tie rods, ball joints, and center link should have been replaced also. My guess is they are sloppy and causing your problem.

Steering box could be causing an extremely slow response time from steering input to action, also.

Of course, you'll need an alignment again....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands.
grab a front tire and wiggle it hard to see if there is any play in the wheel bearings or steering linkage. Check the steering insulator, (Rag joint) for starters.
The toe in might be out of spec too.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
What Extreme said-also check how much play there is between the the steering box input shaft and pitman shaft, sometimes you can adjust that out. These things should have been noticed by the alignment shop, they can't do a good job with worn out parts on the car.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15,133 Posts
What size and backspace are your front tires and wheels? A wide tire will want to wander and follow cracks in the road, especially if the scrub-radius is made worse with a deep offset wheel (not enough backspace)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Idler arm, tie rods, ball joints, and center link should have been replaced also. My guess is they are sloppy and causing your problem.

Steering box could be causing an extremely slow response time from steering input to action, also.

Of course, you'll need an alignment again....
Idler arm, tie rods, ball joints are all new.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What Extreme said-also check how much play there is between the the steering box input shaft and pitman shaft, sometimes you can adjust that out. These things should have been noticed by the alignment shop, they can't do a good job with worn out parts on the car.
Like I said most every thing is new. When it was at the shop I told them what was done and if they found anything that needed done to do it.
Trust me there are no worn out parts on this car. :confused:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I jacked the front end up and the only place I could find any play was at the input shaft of the steering gear box. It seems when I grab the steering shaft I can move it to the right quite a bit just with my hands. I can see the rag joint giving but also seems to be a little sloppy going into the gearbox. Everything else is tight. I checked this by moving the front wheel side to side.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,065 Posts
I'd bet you've got a real loose steering box then - doesn't make sense otherwise.

Only other thing I can think of, as mentioned above, is to check that your front hubs are tightened to spec and the bearings are seated properly.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Check the steering box adjustment. With the wheels on the ground check the steering wheel play, I'm not sure what the specific play is but generic should be less than an inch. You can take the slack out by the adjustment screw on top of the box. Hold the screw while you loosen the lock nut, then tighten the screw untill steering wheel play is less than one inch, then cinch down the lock nut. When you road test the car, if you have less than an inch of free play in the wheel, the wheel has a slight amount of drag in it and no 'lumps' in it's travel, you should be good.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15,133 Posts
Was it aligned to factory specs, or did he add some caster for the modern radial tires?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
Worn steering boxes won't usually cause any driving difficulties other than the obvious slower than normal steering response. I'll bet the alignment was done improperly or something was left loose (tie rod adjuster) allowing it to move.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,236 Posts
Worn steering boxes won't usually cause any driving difficulties other than the obvious slower than normal steering response. I'll bet the alignment was done improperly or something was left loose (tie rod adjuster) allowing it to move.
I know you are very knowledgeable, but my old box seemed to be quite sloppy. My car would follow ruts really badly and pull to one side randomly. I didnt try adjusting it, instead I just put a jeep grand cherokee box in.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
14,489 Posts
Is this power steering or manual steering? My apoligies if I missed that part if its already been mentioned.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Was it aligned to factory specs, or did he add some caster for the modern radial tires?
Honestly I'm not sure. I do know that there are alot of shims on the upper control arm but a buddy of mine has an original 72 ss and his does also. I excpected the car to not drive like a new one with radial tires and all but it's pretty bad. I have had three other 72's and they drove fine.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top