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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys (and of course Gals),

I haven't been on lately, busy at work, cruisin' you know the drill, anyway, I am being driven crazy by my car not starting when you really want it to! What I mean be not starting is that when you turn the ignition switch, no sound, nada! I hope someone is reading this and can point me in a direction that I have not thought of. Here's what's up:

Car: 67 Chevelle, with a 327 HEI and headers.
What's been replaced so far:
1. Starter replaced
2. Battery replaced
3. Ignition switch replaced
4. Ignition switch wires female ends replaced and soldered
5. Regulator replaced


Here's what I have done:
1. Claeaned battery terminals
2. Cleaned grounds in engine compartment, from battery to chassis, battery to engine (main grnd wire 4 gauge), the two to each head on engine, regulator grnd, horn relay grnd, and grnd wire coming from ignition switch (green 20 gauge)
3. Cleaned positive 4 gauge starter wire to starter
4. Replaced red 10 gauge ignition wire from fuse box to starter solenoid
5. Installed thermal blanket around starter and solenoid
6. Installed voltmeter to monitor electrical load.

All this and still no go. Now what I have done with regards to troubleshooting, I'll give you the numbers and someone please point me in the right direction.

1. Car starts by jumping across the solenoid terminals. ;o) I always carry a good screw driver.
2. Altenator produces 13.7 volts at 1000 RPM, a little lower at idle.
3. When starting, the voltmeter drops to about 11.5 volts (that is when the car doesn't start, and that's most of the time)
4. When battery fully charged, the car will start fine for a while, even after a 30 minute cruise around town, and always starts first thing in the morning.
5. I have done a voltage check at teh starter when starting and this is where it gets a ittle funky. Sometimes the reading is 9 volts and car starts, when it is below that it won't. I had my wife try starting the car when it wouldn't start and I measured the voltages, this is what I got: 5, 6.7, 8, 5.9, 8.9; pretty much fluctuated around, oh and the volmeter in the car read 11.8 volts when key turned to the start position.


I am fed up with this little nusance thing. I have not looked at the NSS because the person before mme installed a B&M shifter (auto) into the car, so I assumed that the NSS is okay. I even wiggle and move teh shifter through PRND to try and get it to start, no joy. Have I missed a ground somewhere, should a take the fuse box apart and use contact cleaner in there? I'm about to put a little jumper switch in the glove box to get around this problem, but I would rather not. Please, is there anyone out there that can help.
:mad: :(

Wade
 

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Done a lot of chasing. Here's 2 odd thoughts because you seem to have looked at a lot of things. Next time it acts up.
1, Try using a car jumper cable from battery (-) to the block. See if that changes anything. Guess is the negative battery cable is acting up even though you cleaned it.
2, Try making up a long test cable. 12 gage with a 20 amp in-line fuse in it (for safety). Run this from battery (+) to the BAT terminal in the fuseblock. This jumper will bypass the postive connections on the terminal block behind the battery, the connection on the horn relay, the firewall contacts, and the underhood fusible links. Might tell us if the problem is with the input to the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks John,

With respect to the jumper wire, what you propose is to divide the engine bay from the dash? I guess with the 20 amp in-line fuse, I take out the fuse in the fuse box and connect this lead to the dash harness side? I'll try that today. As for the battery cables, I looked closer at the grnd cable and it was previously cut and soldered, I guess to make it shorter. I'll replace this one just as added measure. Does it mater where it should be grnded to? Right now its bolted to the water pump.
 

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Don't take any fuses out of the box or the test won't work. The BAT terminal is fused back to the main power lead and you need that fuse in there. That's the closes point to the ignition switch red wire I can think without harness chopping.
Since the solenoid always engages the starter with a screwdriver the problem doesn't appear there. The ignition switch is new. The line to the solenoid "S" terminal has been looked at.
Pretty much down to the NSS or a problem with power to the ignition switch. Thought is to use a jumper and bypass all the connections under the hood. If it works or doesn't work should help us on where to look next.
Make sure it doesn't get into the fan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
John,

Thanks for the advice, I opened up the shifter and cleaned the contacts on the NSS and they were fine, however, i re-crimped the B&M shifter NSS leads just to be sure. After that I opened up the fuse panel, and cleaned all teh contacts. This took some time however, I feel its worth it. I then went under the hood and cleaned the two electrical connectors to the fuse panel. They were dirty. Interesting enough, the main red lead was a little corroded so I used emery and aircraft electrical cleaneer to scrub it down.

After putting everything together, car started no problem. Took it for a 30 minute cruise. Stopped and shut it down several times and it started every time! Maybe I've solved my problem. I'll drive it all day today and tomorrow and try to reproduce the fault. If it shows up again, I'll jump across the engine bay to the Bat term in th efuse box as you suggest and work from there. I'll keep you posted, thanks again for your time.

Wade
 

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Way cool, sounded like it was around there somewhere. If you have the time also check around the positive block behind the battery. It also can act up because it's hidden.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry I haven't been back to the forum, I've been busy buying a Dodge!! Yeah, I know, a Dodge. Well I couldn't pass up the deal they were offering on new Dakotas with the V8, $5000.00 money back or 0% financing. I took the 5 grand. Anyway I looked at GMC, but I am not crazy about the proof in the 5 banger yet, and I'll not buy a Ford.

Enough of the chit chat, I have had no problem with the car starting
Seems that people over look the obvious, from now on, before I jump to changing components, I will look into the wiring connections. Thanks for your help John.

Hopefully I won't have to tow the Dodge home with the Chev!!!
 
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