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Discussion Starter #1
I recently pulled the motor on my 72 malibu and had some performance parts put on it, Heads, cam, etc. It is a 350. Well I have put the motor back in and i cant get any juice at all. The switch ignition wire is on the S terminal and i believe it is all hooked up. Any ideas as to what is wrong. I would greatly appreciate them.
 

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Can you hear the starter's solenoid engauging? that click-click sound?

If yes, then the starter motor's high currect big red wire isn't there.

If no, then your ignition switch isn't sending the solenoid the voltage to activate the solenoid. Does the fuse box in the car get voltage? does anything else on the car work, lights, horn? Might be the "fuseable link"

You put some ground straps on the motor didn't you?


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BB414, TH400, 3.73 posi,
13.1sec @ 105 MPH (TH400 needs clutch pack, Radial T/As = zero traction)
"I've seen sunny days that I thought would never end " J.T.
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff
Video of me staging (smoke of course)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I hook the battery up there is no power going to anything. No lights, no ingnition,no nuthin. The battery reads that it has 13.5 volts and it is all hooked up. When I use a circuit tester it reads that the starter is grounded and everything I touch it to is grounded. My column shift is converted to a floor shift so I dont think that it is the neutral safety switch. My ignition is HEI so the stock coil is unhooked. I have used both of these things a lot before I pulled the motor so I dont think that it is them. Another thing I tested the Switch ignition wire that runs from the fire wall to the S terminal on the starter and when the circuit tester is on the positive battery terminal and then touched to that it reads that it is grounded because the light comes on. Is this wire supposed to be grounded? I didnt think it would but as far as electrical stuff goes im dumber than normal. I hope someone can help me.
 

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Check the wire, appx 10 gauge coming from the pos terminal to a block on the fender or radiator support, it is the feed for the rest of the car.
 

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Do what pipeman suggested. Sounds like you have burned open the fusable link in the wire from the battery to the terminal block or from the terminal block over to the horn relay terminal. The starter motor and solenoid are very low resistance and I'm not surprised that a test light would come on.

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Steve Strasemeier (70SS 396, Fathom Blue/White Stripes)
My 70SS
 

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Guys,

On a '72 There IS NO JUNCTION block by the radiator!!! GM changed things so all of the car's power is tapped off of the starter battery terminal itself. Off of this is the main "fusible link".

Grungeboy,

very carefullyHave an assistant try to start the car while you touch you test light to the S terminal. The other test light connection goes to ground of course. When the key is turned to start, the light should come on, this represents the starter S terminal is getting 12 volts, what is used to engage the starter solenoid and activate the starter. If it's not getting 12 volts, the switch is not receiving the 12 volts to begin with and you need to start tracing why the circuit does not get power. As stated before even though technically wrong, check your fusible link, there should be one off of the starter B terminal (what has the big fat + battery wire on) as I stated earlier. If it's fried, you car will not have interior/accessory power.
 

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Joe. Mine kinda had a fusible link. My electrical system as a whole would go kaput anytime I loaded it down (brake lights, horn, anything would do it!). Took me forever to find out that the main power wire from battery to the "horn relay junction" was TWO wires. and the previous owner had done the old twist and tape job. All of the corrosion presented a very unpredictable switch
Later found out my solenoid wire was 3 different wires
The car was started by a "BFPS" Big F'in Plunger switch


Grunge.
MAke sure voltage is getting to the horn relay. It is right behind your brake booster. It'll have a big orange wire coming out of it also. This junction sends wires to: blower motor, voltage regulator in fender, fuse box.

My system is a little iffy on the latter fuse box wire. Try this. Take a wire and clamp it in with the +12V batt. post. carefull not to make spark
Take to other end of this wire and bring it inside the cab. Attatch it to the "bat" terminal of the fusebox. Now see what the car will do.

If this is simple battery terminal corrosion stuff, I'm gonna shoot somebody
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im pretty sure that its not corrosion stuff because I havent seen a speck of corrosion. I'll try that idea but I was thinking, the block on the fire wall that the wire from the switch comes from, well should that be grounded? I put the circuit tester on it and it lights right up. Also, Could someone tell me the wiring to the starter. It should be right but just for safety sake. There are three small terminal wires and the battery cable and another wire that goes to the battery cable terminal.

I'm so sick of this crap that im about to shoot somebody. I really hope i get it figured out soon.
 

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On the "S" terminal there is a purple wire. That is the only wire on that terminal. That is the start lead from the firewall. On the large terminal there is the cable from the battery and a wire from the horn relay. On the "R" terminal there was a yellow wire. Yours is probably cut because of your HEI.
Check to see if you have a good tight connection on your ground cable on the alternator bracket. Just because your meter reads ground, it may not be good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well now that you guys are ready to hang me I've come back on to say that I figured it out. The wire on the junction block on the fire wall was going to the S terminal when it should have been going to the positive battery cable terminal. DUH! I dont know how it was messed up because I did not change the connector end and it was small when it should have been large. Oh well, I'm an idiot and I'll have to learn to accept that. Thanks to everyone that has sent replies in an attempt to try and help me. I can now sleep at night. THANKS.
 

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I'm glad you got it running but something just doesn't sound right

Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly but if you had to change the wire terminal eyelet size on the wire in order to move it then it couldn't have been on the larger post to begin with.

I suspect that Joe had the answer and you have found a way to bypass the blown fusible link in the power feed wire by creating another path somehow.

how many wires do you have on the big post of the starter now (not counting the battery cable)

Exactly where is this terminal block at on the fire wall ?

do you have power windows ?

the reason I ask is my 69 has a two pole circuit breaker on the fire wall for the PW
If I were to run a wire from the big post on the starter to that it would bypass the fusible link, creating a second path for the power feed to the dash

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Discussion Starter #13
There are two wires coming off of the large post not counting the battery cable. I dont have power windows. The block is by the master cylinder for the brakes and it has three wires coming off of it including one that goes to the starter which is now one of the two. So far it has worked all right. I dont believe that there is a fusible link because I looked and couldnt find anything and my dad says that when we had it looked at before, they looked for a fusible link and it didnt have one. oh well i guess i will wait until it breaks again to worry about it. Hopefully it will be after the rearend gears that i want.
 
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